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Originally Posted by gbrettin Oh man I totally got lost in the moment having fun. I only had a few hours of sleep and was running on fumes. RIGHT after
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#1 (permalink) | |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
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![]() 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html |
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#2 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Location: South Carolina
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Haven’t even put any thoughts on the brakes
![]() As I’m sure it wouldn’t hurt to freshen these up a bit ![]()
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MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html |
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#6 (permalink) |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
Age: 69
Posts: 35,481
Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M
Rep Power: 2684438 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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You have a right hand drive car?
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__________________
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#7 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Portage, MI
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Found my lost Stillen cooler! YES! That tidbit of metal is WAY too expensive.
My buddies thought it would be funny to put a dead winged rat on my engine. It was indeed funny. My 2 piece rotors were disassembled. I used a rubber hammer to get the inserts out, with the exception of 3 of them. I should have used a punch because I ended up mushrooming the head a bit with a claw hammer. That set me back an hour trying to grind it out. I have all new centric pistons coming in for my calipers. Also, I ordered ACDelco rubber seals. I thought that was made in America... Apparently not. All the bolts were cleaned up for my brake caliper. I used a wire wheel to gently go over the surface which knocked off all the corrosion. I also primed the heads on the bolts and then painted them black. Might as well go full re-tard. The 2 piece rotor hats were scuffed and primed. Later (next day) I was was chatting up Bryan Settle and he noticed the Epoxy Primer was not high temp. SOooooOooooOOooo I went to the parts store to purchase 40 dollars with of paint. After that I sent a message off to the powder coater and asked him how much for cermic coating. He quoted me 50 bucks... SOLD! Lastly, I now have the push rod measurements for my engine. I'm happy to say that's the last internal component I needed for my engine to run. I'm chipping away at this elephant. It feels like I have some tail wind on this project right now. A question for you guys. Have the videos been getting easier to watch? Or... don't quit your day job? Or... you simply haven't watched/cared. Not going to hurt my feelings. just looking for a bit of feedback. Reason I'm doing it is to give a bit more depth to the build here, have some video documentation for myself and most importantly... nerd out a bit with video editing/graphic software. |
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#8 (permalink) |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
Age: 69
Posts: 35,481
Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M
Rep Power: 2684438 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() ![]() Where did you get the brakes seals and pistons from? Does the seal kit have the o-ring for between the caliper halves?
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#9 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Portage, MI
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I'll have a parachute on my car later... After all, I built these brakes. ![]() |
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#12 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
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IG@gbrettin
Starter needed to be clocked out away from the block because it was hitting. Noticed the crank sensor was missing... So... I put one in since the starter was out. Custom pan already paid off because I was able to get to the starter bolt! The fancy starter is available at @motionraceworks if anyone needs one. #motionraceworks ------------------------------- Aside from clocking the starter... I took the 2 piece rotor hats into the powder coater to have them slicked up. The price breakdown came out to be the exact same as purchasing high temp paint. So about that crank sensor... I went to the store and picked it up new, no big deal. Then I got to thinking... EVERY sensor has been new on this. ![]() ![]() Dartblock would have been bad ***! oh well. It's all a slippery slope. I'm GREAT at finding rabbit holes and swan diving head first into them. |
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#13 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Portage, MI
Posts: 2,301
Drives: Tricycle
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So I purchased used shocks from FB last week with 25k. My old shocks have 97k on them so I figured.... "while I'm in here..."
The install was probably one of the easier things I've done on the car in a while. I even took the time to clean up the SPL end links. You might be wondering why I'm putting OE shocks on. It's pretty simple. OE shocks are REALLY good for the price point (120 dollars for all 4 corners) and don't think you will see massive gains until you spend a minimum of 1K per corner. I've got different 1k items to worry about before I go down that path. Also, I have some plans for the rear suspension going to a cantilever being built into the cage. That way I can lay some MASSIVE shocks into the trunk of the car. Oddly enough, there has been one 350z that already did something similar to what I was thinking: https://www.instagram.com/p/CBOIdvXH..._web_copy_link Anyway... more pictures. less exciting stuff; however, it's still part of the process. Last edited by gbrettin; 02-18-2021 at 05:57 AM. |
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#14 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 31,410
Drives: Granma red Z
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Im not sure if they are buried under the snow or not but I have my oem laying around with 20k miles on em. Yours free if I can find them under pine needles and ice...
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