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FI with continous high speed driving 130MPH+

Originally Posted by Kingbaby A vented hood and a wider opening in the fascia. Along with the already mention violin mods you should be fine! This is by the way

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Old 12-03-2012, 12:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Kingbaby View Post
A vented hood and a wider opening in the fascia. Along with the already mention violin mods you should be fine!


This is by the way the silliest reason to go fast!

Station wagons lmao

Be safe man!
I got the vented hood already so that's a plus.

Beating station wagons isn't the only reason to go fast. It makes road trips that much more fun.

Not a jet engine mechanic. I can install them but I haven't had the opportunity to tear one apart yet.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I don't know about German cars but I don't think any production car engine is meant to sustain high speeds (high loads) not to mention a NA car modded to FI. But good luck to you. And if you can post a video of a station wagon passing you at 130

With Standard Gear ratios RPMs
130 = 4800 6th
165 = 6000 6th

Last edited by 2011 Nismo#91; 12-03-2012 at 03:39 PM.
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Old 12-03-2012, 06:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I sustain over 130 regularly. I do not have a large oil cooler, and the one that I do have is behind the intercooler. My oil temps can hit 220-230 if I hold it up there for a while on nights that arent very cool weather. At the higher speeds, the airflow increases a lot. I am not sure to what ratio that offsets the higher sustained RPM, but it definitely helps. Up to 175-180 I have not had my oil temps go out of control, but the longest I have sustained that type of speed in the 370z is just for a minute or two.

As far as oil cooling goes, I think you just want to get on the larger end of the typical spectrum. People that are road racing will probably tax their oil temp just as much if not more, as they are all over the place on RPM and have less airflow due to lower speeds, and they are making max power more frequently as they constantly have to slow down then reaccelerate. I dont think that sustaining the high speeds is going to really hit you hard on oil temps compared to a road racer.

I cant recall the size of my oil cooler, but you can just see the top of it behind the intercooler on the driver side (LHD). It wasnt a kit, I just bought the parts.

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Last edited by phunk; 12-03-2012 at 06:55 PM.
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:59 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I sustain over 130 regularly. I do not have a large oil cooler, and the one that I do have is behind the intercooler. My oil temps can hit 220-230 if I hold it up there for a while on nights that arent very cool weather. At the higher speeds, the airflow increases a lot. I am not sure to what ratio that offsets the higher sustained RPM, but it definitely helps. Up to 175-180 I have not had my oil temps go out of control, but the longest I have sustained that type of speed in the 370z is just for a minute or two.

As far as oil cooling goes, I think you just want to get on the larger end of the typical spectrum. People that are road racing will probably tax their oil temp just as much if not more, as they are all over the place on RPM and have less airflow due to lower speeds, and they are making max power more frequently as they constantly have to slow down then reaccelerate. I dont think that sustaining the high speeds is going to really hit you hard on oil temps compared to a road racer.

I cant recall the size of my oil cooler, but you can just see the top of it behind the intercooler on the driver side (LHD). It wasnt a kit, I just bought the parts.

Thanks thats good to hear. I wonder why my temps get as high as they do? Did you have to adjust your Gear ratios to get to those speeds? If so who/what did you go with?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91 View Post
I don't know about German cars but I don't think any production car engine is meant to sustain high speeds (high loads) not to mention a NA car modded to FI. But good luck to you. And if you can post a video of a station wagon passing you at 130

With Standard Gear ratios RPMs
130 = 4800 6th
165 = 6000 6th
The RPM's sound about right. I drive it like I stole it and I get really crappy gas mileage. But I do make 2.5hr trips in about an hour fifteen.
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Old 12-04-2012, 02:22 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Dont even bother unless you have a built engine to continuously to do that type of speed. Your puttin so much stress on the engine, trust me i know. Thats how i blew mine up
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:04 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Dont even bother unless you have a built engine to continuously to do that type of speed. Your puttin so much stress on the engine, trust me i know. Thats how i blew mine up
I'll probably do a bit of both. I reached out to GTM today and gave them my goals. I'll see what they come back with and then I'll have to set a budget mark and go from there.
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Old 12-04-2012, 02:48 AM   #7 (permalink)
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a lot of people fail to realize that in 5th or 6th gear you are OVER driving the engine, which is the same theory as lighting a match....it will only burn for so long. When you FI a car, the matchstick just got a whole lot shorter. Nice build though!
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:06 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I dont really see the big deal with sustaining high speed. It would be one thing if you were under high load the entire time... but once I am finished accelerating, it isnt requiring enough power to sustain these speeds that it even stays in boost. I still have a 100% stock cooling system even the radiator, etc. I have over 18,000 miles with the turbos and while I dont go that fast every day, I do it often enough. I also used to ride the speed limiter pretty often when the engine was mostly stock with stock speed limiter. I really use the power the car has all the time... I wouldnt say I beat on it, but many would look at it that way.

I think that if your tune is good enough, youre fine.
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:20 AM   #9 (permalink)
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5th is not "overdriving our engine" (1:1) As long as your motor can pull through the gear, it's not any different on the engine than doing 30 in 1st gear. 5th and 6th just aren't as robust as the other gears.
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I drive 100+ a lot. Stage 2 TT kit and I haven't had any issues... Love to see how fast my mph climbs at wot
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Old 12-04-2012, 06:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I have a vented hood, csf radiator and 34 row oil cooler from z1. I no longer see over 220 no matter how hard I drive it. Stage 2 gtm twin turbo. Iv been 180 in my 370 and it had more in it. I dont have the balls on the street to go faster.
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:42 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Nice! I stopped at 150 on my G. Has more but I'm stock block n don't wanna push it that hard.. If I had built motor tho I'd peg the needle til it couldn't move anymore!
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:20 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Nice! I stopped at 150 on my G. Has more but I'm stock block n don't wanna push it that hard.. If I had built motor tho I'd peg the needle til it couldn't move anymore!

Lol my kind of driver I have hit 170 in my Z a few times no room or need to go any faster.
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:50 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Good to have a real auto enthusiast here. It’s hard to find high speed freaks like me around here. Glad I found you. I will share with you ways to overcome your cooling issue. First, Here are the very important links to some of my work. I will post the part with cooling fan temp PCM modification soon :

Installing the largest possible radiator for your 370Z - Part 1
Installing the largest possible street racing radiator for your 370Z - part 2 FINAL

I am a high speed driver as well. My favorite part when it comes to highly spirited driving is doing super high speed. 130 mph is nothing if the 370Z is properly and professionally modified (Of course it is not that cheap ). I used to own a 2009 GT3-RS and 130 mph was like lunch everyday. Loved that car every minute of it, until my damn brother severely wrecked the car 2 years ago.... Yikes......... Anyway, this is the ultimate and reliable way to cool down your engine considerably.

The fact is this VVEL cylinder heads act like a heat pump. Very nice design but thermally very inefficient .They generate a tremendous amount of heat that you would not believe. These below are the true weaknesses of the VQ37VHR oil and water cooling system , and that's why the engine temp itself runs very hot, and thus the super hot oil temp :

1)) Factory radiator is flimsy and very thin. The whole cooling capacity is only 9-1/8 quarts. After the engine fully warms up for 30 minutes and especially at 85F+ ambient temps with highly spirited driving, this radiator could never cool the engine down below 217F.
2)) No factory oil cooler
3)) Engine Oil capacity is very little. Only 5-1/8 quart
Well, I think Nissan engineers know well this design will allow the engine oil overheat to 285F in no time under high speed / load / rpm driving . But this is the best that they could do in order to keep down the cost of the car.
So, :
1)) You need to have the Mocal thermostatic oil adapter and a 25 row oil cooler ( Setrab is the best ) installed.
2)) You need to modify to this dual row large radiator as shown in the 2 links above
3)) Using Uprev – tuner version and reprogram the fan duty cycle so that the fan will turn on at lower temperatures. This is VERY important since factory setting will NOT allow you to fully utilize this large radiator capability. Please see these links for stock fan setting and modified fan setting, respectively :
http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...ckradiator.png
http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/...fansetting.png


4)) Install a Greddy oil pan ( My future project soon… )

Notice : Step 3 is VERY vital. If you retain the factory fan setting, you will not be able to utilize this radiator to its fullest capability. This is where it gets the coolant temp down to about 195F , and thus considerably cools the oil down way further. A must for twin turbo 500whp package
Step 4 is also very important. Not only this Greddy oil pan adds another 2 quarts of oil, which further cools down your oil temp, there are baffle plates that will help to minimize or eliminate the oil starvation. Believe me on this when you start rpm the car at about 7000+ while pulling a 1.3 to 1.4G turns .... and this VQ37VHR does NOT come with a secondary scavenging oil pump.

After everything that I have done above ( Except with the Greddy oil pan ). I did drive at a 5 mile real hard driving on HWY 9 ( Rpm from 5500 to 7600 rpm constant ) at about 88F – 90F ambient, my oil temp NEVER got passed 215F. In comparison with just the 25 row oil cooler alone before, I was up to about 250F all the time. And with no oil cooler, it went up to a dangerous level of 280F+, almost put my car in limb mode…..

Remember : Heat kills your engine. How do you think the Carrera 4, GT3, Carrerra Turbo can survive that heat in super high speed and high RPM ? The reason would be because they have 9+ quarts of oil and a 25+ quarts cooling capacity. You can verify these specs yourself. The VQ37VHR engine is not quite as stout as Porsche and may not last as long under severe and high speed drivings, but it is plenty strong and will last for a while if you keep it cool enough .

Good luck.
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Last edited by conmam; 12-05-2012 at 01:07 AM. Reason: Mistakes
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:17 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Hey guys! I have been searching for this info for the past three hours so if I missed it sorry MODS a redo thread was not intended.

OK now to business.

I live in Germany and like to drive really fast.

Even with a 24 row oil cooler and everything else stock at cruizing speeds at 130MPH my oil temps sit around 220-240.

When I open up and top out at 165mph it rides around 250-260.

I am goin to get FI this winter but my big concern is oil temps at speeds in excess of 180+.

does anyone have any advice on setup to include FI and OIL cooler parts?
If you get the aerodynamic correctly done, you should be able to hit 199 mph at 7490 RPM ( maximum speed at 6th gear ) and enough hp. I figure at least 600 reliable whp needed to get up there.

I paid a professional driver to test my GT3RS for top speed. They radar read the car and it topped out at about 193 mph at 8000 rpm on 6th gear and the car has only 450hp at the engine.... Amazing isn't it ? I believe the Z can hit 190 mph +, just need a bit more whp since the Z's aerodynamic is not quite as good as the GT3 MK2. Also the GT3 is 200 lbs lighter than my stock Z

Last edited by conmam; 12-05-2012 at 07:30 PM.
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