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Best ways to control traction

For my driving habits I was thinking adjusting the camber upgrading the diff and depending on mileage maybe switch to the toyo r888 .......one of the main reasons I went

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Old 07-24-2018, 02:09 PM   #16 (permalink)
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For my driving habits I was thinking adjusting the camber upgrading the diff and depending on mileage maybe switch to the toyo r888 .......one of the main reasons I went with mss was more mileage...if I was to push the car it would be more so a straight line not so much on the track
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Old 07-24-2018, 02:33 PM   #17 (permalink)
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If you're using an electronic boost controller, maybe try ramping in the boost more slowly? That big hit of torque on spoolup always seems to break the tires loose.
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Old 07-24-2018, 03:16 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chuck33079 View Post
If you're using an electronic boost controller, maybe try ramping in the boost more slowly? That big hit of torque on spoolup always seems to break the tires loose.
Right now manual boost controller ...but it’s closed ..and I’m using a 12 lbs spring in wastegates ...boost controller was for increasing to 14 next Dyno run ....and boost comes on really fast lol
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Old 07-24-2018, 07:01 PM   #19 (permalink)
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You could always try using your RFTCS.
( Click to show/hide )
right foot traction control system


Seriously though a "proper" LSD will make a world of difference. I had a Quaife on a previous ride and liked it a lot. The OSG is probably the best to grow with.
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Old 07-24-2018, 07:44 PM   #20 (permalink)
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My experience has been different.

I run 325/19 re-11 on the rear and 285/19 on the front.

The RE-11s do not hook at the dragstrip at all. They dont hook in the corners either, unless heated up well. Not really impressed and my car makes only 300 whp.

The MT ET street SS in 285/18 on the rear at 25 psi, are quite simply amazing in the corners. These are not typical soft side wall bias ply drag tires, they are short sidewall radials. The MT tire does very well at the dragstrip too. It requires no burnout at the track, or on the street. My car is very stable and perfectly comfortable with the MT ET street SS on the street, they just dont last very long.

My ET streets have about 100 1/4 mile runs on them and 2600 street miles. They are nearly to the wear bars now.

To hook, you need a soft tire compound and a good suspension set up. Few street tires have a soft compound.
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Old 07-25-2018, 05:04 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I never tried the ET Streets; though I’ve heard it’s a great tire.
Here’s what I had to do-to make the 345 Invo’s grip.



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Old 07-25-2018, 04:50 PM   #22 (permalink)
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There is a lot of good advice here. To add my two cents, there is no hooking up on any tire without heat in them period. All tires do better when they are at their appropriate running temperature. Mechanical grip is limited in the Z do to suspension set up and drive train. So the more you can do to improve it the better off you will be for what ever setup you you shooting for. After spending time this year with Jeremy from Nissan I learned a few things about the Z and one of the big ones which I knew but didn't know what to do about is the rear end of the car is really light. He showed me several Nissan, various Z models and all of them had a way to add weight over the rear axle. I got to come up with a way to do this for my z lol.

The deal is the Z was not meant to be boosted and NA the car is pretty damn good out of the box all things considered. The number one thing I have learned and I am sure Chuck can back this up as he has been boosted a lot longer than me is, you got to learn how to control your right foot. You can't simply smash the go fast pedal an not spin!

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Old 07-25-2018, 06:29 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Hotrodz View Post
The number one thing I have learned and I am sure Chuck can back this up as he has been boosted a lot longer than me is, you got to learn how to control your right foot. You can't simply smash the go fast pedal an not spin!

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^^^This, I have been driving boosted cars for years. Mine will just be one more I have to get us to. I struggle a little with my current NA car. That will be cured shortly. You need to learn how to roll into the throttle and tell by your butt when you're at the edge of traction. All of my boosted cars never had any nannies or traction control. You were on your own.
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Old 07-25-2018, 06:37 PM   #24 (permalink)
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So true!

I scaled mine with an empty trunk and 5 gal of fuel and ..

1553lbs 44.50% rear
1937lbs 55.50% front

Holy cow! it is light in the rear. I thought that the car hooked better at the dragstrip with a full tank of fuel. That is real trade off for me cause I dont want the added fuel weight to the total.
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Old 07-25-2018, 06:52 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SG4247 View Post
So true!

I scaled mine with an empty trunk and 5 gal of fuel and ..

1553lbs 44.50% rear
1937lbs 55.50% front

Holy cow! it is light in the rear. I thought that the car hooked better at the dragstrip with a full tank of fuel. That is real trade off for me cause I dont want the added fuel weight to the total.
The guy that corner balanced my car said If I wanted to get the perfect corner balance he could add weight at the lowest part of the car in the rear.
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Old 07-25-2018, 06:55 PM   #26 (permalink)
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My cross weights were 1755lbs, 49.9. I didn't take a snapshot of the front and rear. I may have them in the car. I will go check. It will be corner balanced again after the TT install. The diff cooler and axle upgrade for the rear will help.
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Old 07-25-2018, 07:12 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Here my corner balance numbers are with 180lbs of led weight in the drivers seat.

LF- 988
RF- 941
LR- 814
RR-772

Cross weight %= 49.9
Rear- 47
Front- 37

They could be better but I am not tracking yet.
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Old 07-25-2018, 07:15 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Talking

With the 440 Dodge Dart that I drag raced. I used to bolt down some weight lifting weights in the trunk.
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Old 07-25-2018, 08:17 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
With the 440 Dodge Dart that I drag raced. I used to bolt down some weight lifting weights in the trunk.
Yep, old school!

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Old 07-26-2018, 09:42 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SG4247 View Post
My experience has been different.

I run 325/19 re-11 on the rear and 285/19 on the front.

The RE-11s do not hook at the dragstrip at all. They dont hook in the corners either, unless heated up well. Not really impressed and my car makes only 300 whp.

The MT ET street SS in 285/18 on the rear at 25 psi, are quite simply amazing in the corners. These are not typical soft side wall bias ply drag tires, they are short sidewall radials. The MT tire does very well at the dragstrip too. It requires no burnout at the track, or on the street. My car is very stable and perfectly comfortable with the MT ET street SS on the street, they just dont last very long.

My ET streets have about 100 1/4 mile runs on them and 2600 street miles. They are nearly to the wear bars now.

To hook, you need a soft tire compound and a good suspension set up. Few street tires have a soft compound.
The MT tires that my friend with a monster turbo Supra (over 800hp) has doesn't handle worth a da*m. It must be because of the way he has it setup for drag racing.

Setup has a lot to do with how a car handles turns or straight line.

That Turbo Supra can blow past me in a straight away but I gain it back in the curvy parts. Fun! It's all in what you want out of your car.

The real limit of my car is my wife. I have to back way off when she rides with me. She was much more adventuresome when she was younger. I still have not "grown up" at 64........
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