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Whats needed for TT Install?

Originally Posted by Nithmo So what's the benefit of going twin turbo vs single turbo? I know there's a thread talking about each, but I still don't know what you

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Old 10-11-2016, 10:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Nithmo View Post
So what's the benefit of going twin turbo vs single turbo? I know there's a thread talking about each, but I still don't know what you gain by adding that extra turbo. Is it power sooner in the rpm band?

Also, LOL at the guys complaining about *just* 500-600hp. Keep in mind the base car only weighs 3250 lbs... that's a lot of power for a light car. I can't even imagine why you'd go higher than that. Unless of course, you have no need for traction. I can't imagine a 600hp Z being butt loads faster than an 800hp one.
You get faster spool by bringing the turbos much closer to the exhaust ports and you keep exhaust pulses from colliding with one another... but there are a lot of great builds using the BP kit these days and it looks like they build boost pretty fast to me.. he uses a twin scroll turbo so it eliminates the exhaust pulse issue.

One potential downside of the BP design is the turbo sits low and is at slightly more risk of getting hit by something and you probably couldnt drive through minor flooding - I am only speculating here though.

Other than that... the twins are more expensive, complex, and laborious to install.

Both types of kits have pros and cons... I love my twin turbos and I got a crazy good deal on my kit... But if I was weighing my options now it would be pretty tough not to get a BP kit.
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You've got a twin turbo sound system, I think you met your audio goals.

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Old 10-12-2016, 08:12 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Nithmo View Post
So what's the benefit of going twin turbo vs single turbo? I know there's a thread talking about each, but I still don't know what you gain by adding that extra turbo. Is it power sooner in the rpm band?

Also, LOL at the guys complaining about *just* 500-600hp. Keep in mind the base car only weighs 3250 lbs... that's a lot of power for a light car. I can't even imagine why you'd go higher than that. Unless of course, you have no need for traction. I can't imagine a 600hp Z being butt loads faster than an 800hp one.
L O L all you want but nowadays 600hp is the new 250hp, not to mention that's about where our motors go. Its just not enough to play with the grown ups around here. So again, $10k or less sounds good for those numbers but, anything over that you are far better off swapping a more proven platform.
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Old 10-12-2016, 07:44 AM   #3 (permalink)
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FI Full Turbo Kit (optional)Larger Housing-External Waste gates
34 Row Oil Cooler With blockoff plate
AFR/Boost/Oil Psi Guages & Pods
Motor and Diff mounts
Exhaust 3" 3" tubing all the way
(Optional) CSF Radiator and Upgrade fan
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Software and Tuning EcuTek or Uprev
(Optional) Turbo and Exhaust Wrap Intercooler thermal coating

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Steel Braided Brake Lines
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This is a short list I put together of what I felt was needed to make useful and safe power. Useful and safe because spinning your wheel(open diff) or wheels(crappy rubber) or your clutch just wastes money. And because you can get to much higher speeds much faster being able to stop faster is important as well. Tires and brakes will add nearly 2k if not more to your costs.

While you can do FI for 10K at that point it's more for show then go.
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Old 10-12-2016, 02:01 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yes, but besides bragging rights ("my car puts down eleventy billion hp") you aren't going any much faster. Because physics. So while 600hp might be the new 250hp, all you're really doing is spending more money to go beyond that.
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Old 10-12-2016, 05:24 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thank you all for the GREAT info. My plan is to have AAM do the install and tuning, just by dumb luck I'm 15 minutes away. I honestly would be ecstatic to have 500 HP, I know turbo's are addictive..but I just want to get the power then concentrate on handling, wheels, tires, etc. in stages. I'd like to do some track days and rest of the time driving curvy roads. I've always liked lower end pull versus redline power, my searching suggested that TT favored a broader spread of power compared to a single turbo hitting harder and up high?

I also really want to stay within the safe perimeters of the stock motor, from what I've read with the correct "supporting mods" (gotta love that phrase) I shouldn't have any grenade issues. Please school me on anything I've misread, misinterpreted or am just plain wrong..I'm a performance bike guy with a fragged back and seeking to emulate as much as possible the power hit and enjoyment good HP exudes!

Alan
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Old 10-12-2016, 09:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by alanforn View Post
Thank you all for the GREAT info. My plan is to have AAM do the install and tuning, just by dumb luck I'm 15 minutes away. I honestly would be ecstatic to have 500 HP, I know turbo's are addictive..but I just want to get the power then concentrate on handling, wheels, tires, etc. in stages. I'd like to do some track days and rest of the time driving curvy roads. I've always liked lower end pull versus redline power, my searching suggested that TT favored a broader spread of power compared to a single turbo hitting harder and up high?

I also really want to stay within the safe perimeters of the stock motor, from what I've read with the correct "supporting mods" (gotta love that phrase) I shouldn't have any grenade issues. Please school me on anything I've misread, misinterpreted or am just plain wrong..I'm a performance bike guy with a fragged back and seeking to emulate as much as possible the power hit and enjoyment good HP exudes!

Alan
FWIW, based on most of the builds on here, the stock motor is good to about 450 ft/lbs torque. Once you go past that, you run a much higher risk of blowing something in the motor.
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Old 10-14-2016, 04:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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FWIW, based on most of the builds on here, the stock motor is good to about 450 ft/lbs torque. Once you go past that, you run a much higher risk of blowing something in the motor.
Actually the stock block can handle another 100 ft/lbs and be safe on e85 or 100 octane. Before I switched to e85 my numbers on 100 octane were 556whp and 552tq.

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Old 10-14-2016, 06:36 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I met with AAM today. They showed me the shop, the different workstations (mandrel bending, tig welding and other fabbing and dyno.) They also showed me some customer cars ranging form 370'z to GTR's. MIke and Tyler then set down with me and went over a detailed list, I'll post the write up in a bit. Overall I was very impressed with the shop and quality of components they build in house. Bottom line we're talking right around $15,000 w/ labor for 500HP with a 1 to 2 week turnaround. Since they more or less center all their focus on the 370, GTR and Infinity they have the process down to a science. Its looking very promising to me.
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Old 10-13-2016, 01:33 AM   #9 (permalink)
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If u want more bang for buck feed the cat corn. You get big ## at the low cost of a few grand. Lol. Bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump. Maybe a fuel return depending on how much ## but it's a big step VB power wise.

And for what its worth, the bike rush is 2x more exhilarating than the car rush. At least it is in my experience.

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Old 10-14-2016, 04:09 PM   #10 (permalink)
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If u want more bang for buck feed the cat corn. You get big ## at the low cost of a few grand. Lol. Bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump. Maybe a fuel return depending on how much ## but it's a big step VB power wise.

And for what its worth, the bike rush is 2x more exhilarating than the car rush. At least it is in my experience.

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Very true but that's a whole different discussion lol
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Old 10-15-2016, 09:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I have there twin turbo kit with the 3 inch true duals. I couldn't see it passing emissions. Their down pipes get rid of the cats all together.


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Old 10-15-2016, 10:37 PM   #12 (permalink)
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with the upgrades that you initially listed,,,I'm with Spooler 20-25
Gotta have a strong foundation,,,I only have exhaust,cai,helical diff locker w/new bearings & bushings,camber arms & tune....4500+ and i installed all the stuff -Dyno tune.
Do it right the 1st time....just be ready to turn those $$$$$ loose!
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Old 10-16-2016, 09:37 AM   #13 (permalink)
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My cost were near about $17K for everything three years ago and I had a few discounts as well. If you are looking to flex fuel cost is going to be about $22K.
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:41 AM   #14 (permalink)
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What are you guys who have to go through emissions doing to pass? I've posed this to AAM but haven't heard back yet. In my mind if I got the 3" true duals with test pipe sections I would think I could drop cats in (and a retune) at emissions time.
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:52 AM   #15 (permalink)
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What are you guys who have to go through emissions doing to pass? I've posed this to AAM but haven't heard back yet. In my mind if I got the 3" true duals with test pipe sections I would think I could drop cats in (and a retune) at emissions time.
It depends on the state. Some states will be ok if you just don't have any CELs. Others make you jump through a lot of hoops. Maybe post that question in your local subforum?
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