Topz did the pipes come in? I'm ready to jump on this :excited:

Hi from the UK guys
I've been reading threw this and it looks Awsome

Little background on my situation i had a stillen kit on my last 370 and now have it ready to go on my new 370 but think this is a must before I fit the kit again

Topgunz
What sort of wait is there on your kit ?

Is that intercooler fitting behind the stock crash bar or do we throw that in the bin ? (Trash)

And thanks for comming up with This its Awsome

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?sto...46146868748619

Here's my last car it was first on Ecutek here in uk and custom code written around this car before its release

And then I smashed it :(





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Mine is in the shop now getting installed I'll see if they still have the original boxes I can at least try to get dimensions.

I'll have dyno #'s by Monday or Tuesday at the latest as well...

Pipes are about a week behind schedule. They should be done end of this coming week.

The box I ship is 26x10x10 and weighs around 12 lbs.

If I had to guess on the intercooler box I'd say 8x20x30 and around 20lbs.

Are the intercooler dimensions of 20" X 15.25" X 3.50" for the Air to Air setup just for the core only, or do they include the tanks top and bottom? I can't quite tell from the pics.
Thanks.

So I just removed the cooler out of the manifold in preparation for going a2a
Took the bolts out pulled hard and it slid right out in one hit
My manifold is off the car at the moment

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I am about to install the Stillen SC and Topgunz's A2A upgrade kit.
I have the Stillen G3 intake, they were already installed when I bought my Z.
Question what are you guys using to trim/cut the radiator
Support with. I understand it will need this for the intercooler tubes to pass thru.
I want to have all the tools ready when my kit arrives.

Thanks

I used a dremel... The support is pretty flimsy plastic.

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Mines on and going on dyno tomorrow!!!

https://s17.postimg.org/rf1l2fzqn/Sc...829_183255.png

https://s17.postimg.org/mh9ykq03j/Sc...829_183334.png

Install looks great! The shop that did it called me and had just one question. It was in regards to the washer reservoir neck hitting the Y pipe. I walked them through that. Other than that they told me the install was very straight forward, easy and everything fit up perfectly!

Love how the Tial lets you select a color and those colors match the 370 family.

Good luck on the Dyno tomorrow! What are you mods other than the A2A kit?

Overall Size 20" X 15.25" X 3.50"
Core Size 18.48 X 9.00 X 3.50
:hello:

I used a pair of channel locks and just tore the plastic apart. It is really pretty soft and easy to work with.

I guess the Godzilla approach has its merits. I am going for as clean of an install as possible, but thanks. Going to use a Dremel tool I have decided.

They were able to use a silicon flex pipe to solve the reservoir neck.

Other upgrades are:

850cc injectos
9lb pulley
Vortech upgraded impeller
AAM oil cooler
Berk HFC
HKS hi-flow exhaust


TopGunz - what do you estimate WHP to be? I dyno'd 449 at the wheels without a2a,and impeller on 650cc injectors

And thx, yes the blue TIAL BOV goes perfectly!

Are you on EcuTech with the 4bar map sensor?

Hey, that was my idea! At least now I know it will work.

Thanks for that TopgunZ.
:driving:

No,.

Uprev

Anyone got dyno sheets ?
Interested in intake Temps with the new set up

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Ditto ^

Also want to hear the Tial with the A2A setup.

There's my dyno sheets and a video of intake temps in this thread.

Page 14 for those asking
No Temps on sheet just power graph
Looks a great power curve tho

I just want to compare Temps to my previous tune



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I'm interested in comparing temps as well. Only thing is my temp probe is in the charge pipe just before the aftercooler in the intake manifold.

I remember reading about the temps at about 10-20 degree above ambient with the A2A kit.

My temp probe stabilized at 140F when it's all warmed up and heatsoaked on a 70F day. If the aftercooler can lower temps by 40-50F then the engine would be taking in 90F to 100F temps. Compared to A2A kit, if engine air is about 10F-20F above ambient of 70F, that would mean about 80F to 90F temps in the engine. That's a 10F to 20F difference between Stillen's A2W and A2A and that's assuming the aftercooler can lower temps by 40F to 50F.

I notice if I continue to mash on the gas and get into boost, the temps get really high really fast but stabilize after 5 minutes of cruising. Interested to see if this happens with the A2A kit. I hope not. I'm guessing this is why the engines pop on the Stillen kit pushing higher psi. On warmer days (80F to 90F), temps climb even faster.

Anyone have temp reading in the Stillen intake manifold after the aftercooler that we can compare to results from the A2A kit?

My temp sensor was in my intake manifold and custom maps built and closed loop to suit those Temps! so it was pretty accurate

I'm ready to drop on this just want to compare those if possible

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There was a video posted by Seb showing AIT in the 180-210F range and it turned out the supercharger bearings were incorrectly installed causing increased heat. After the fix, the temps readings dropped to 140-160F which is consistent with what I'm seeing. See his response below for information on A2A setups and his experience with it. The positive comment I see from Seb's response is that the temps are stable over repeated pulls.



"The car wasn't producing power along with the added heat. So it was pulled to check it out and sure enough there was a problem. I see temps in the 140 to 160s on average. Those who go to air to air intercoolers I see about 120-130 temps that are pretty stable over repeated pulls. This is with the MAFs (intake temps) relocated to the charge piping just like you have on your PLX setup. The sensor on the car on YouTube has the sensor installed in the intake manifold (after the heat exchanger) where the temps will typically be hotter. It would be a good idea to add an additional sensor to the intake manifold and get a reading there so its more comparable to this car. Some of the air to air guys may only be reading from the MAFs and the MAFs may also still be located at the blower inlet."

In the intake manifold after the aftercooler core or before it? What were your temp?

Its all about WOT and idling or cruising isnt a concern. The engine isnt going to let go when cruising, it is going to happen at WOT. The engine isnt going to wear rings at idle or cruising but high temps and cylinder walls wreak havoc on them under boost.

This kit was designed to address full boost situations and to eliminate the heat soak issue that was in the above post, because thats the issue with the water.

In my video i posted here about 4 months ago I am doing a WOT pull all the way to redline and to max boost. At peak boost I am only reading 20* over ambient.

The gain in horsepower is also what the kit is designed to do. This occurs because the timing can be advanced accurately and the car knows what is going on since the MAFs are placed after the intercooler and reading the exact temp that air is entering the engine. The gains are also made by the cooler charge air and the filter design.

After I'll grab some pictures when I can
Here's what was done

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?sto...46146868748619


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All the safety features you talk of were done by my tuners here!
The one thing they could not do was cool the air
So had to add fuel cool on wot to keep things in check
All detailed in my Facebook post

The one thing I'm looking to take away from this kit is the simplicity of the design and the nice cool stable intake Temps :)
To allow my tunner to carry the power threw to wot

I'll be in touch next few days to arange getting a kit from you :cool:

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Some Temps on here
It was dialed back to this due to almost 60 degrees iat on the dyno

If it will help, I can get the data I've been collecting with my Ecutek tune. It logs ambient temp as well as intake temps (post intercooler). I do see a quick rise in temps while on boost but they cool back down as soon as the boost goes away. It should give you an idea of how effective the a2a system is at least with my modest boost levels.

I'd apriciate that
I can compare that to my logs I did .
Tia.

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Keep in mind that my boost level sucks but this is what I recorded a while back.
RPM Boost PSI Temp °F Ambient temp was around 98°F that day
2500 0 111
3000 1.3 111
3500 1.89 111
4000 2.61 113
4500 3.34 114.8
5000 4.49 116.6
5500 5.22 120.2
6000 5.95 123.8
6500 6.67 129.2
7000 5.25 134.6

So the temp went up 23.6°F for this run, on a hot day, with crappy boost level that I'm trying to fix.

VIDEO OF TIAL BOV ON DYNO:

#1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8wnj35n32k...55941.3gp?dl=0

Full Pull:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kutgojdhq7...55943.3gp?dl=0

And a couple pics to boot(springs havent settled yet, and its been up on lift:
https://s21.postimg.org/z8j94j187/image.png
https://s22.postimg.org/6ck6v4drl/image.png
https://s13.postimg.org/6wyy6rl87/image.jpg

^The TIAL sounds good. Don't know if it's just the garage effect but the BOV almost drowns out the exhaust note.haha

Any dyno numbers and temp information yet?

The deep blue color looks good and unique and the black wheels go well with the overall theme. Color matched door handles was a good idea.

So your looking at about 20 degrees above ambient then ?
At the top of the rev range ?

Interesting I'll look back threw my logs tomorrow and see where mine was at
Bearing in mind It's a lot cooler in uk :)
I'd say this still wins by somewhere between 10/20 degrees max at redline
I'll check tomorrow


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Ok. The thing is that when Tbatt smashes his throttle right after that and 3rd run and 4th run and so on....He will see that same temperature every single time. What are the water temps at if you are on the throttle hard on the track for 2 minutes. WAY hotter. The A2A kit will keep temps a cool 20 over the entire race. Which relates to more, safer power.

check a few posts back ;)

That's what I'm after :)

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Question
Dose the stock crash bar goes back on or custom one needed?

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