Looks right to me too but I don't have Tops kit so I could be wrong.

What really doesn't make sense is you have the kink in there and making 5psi due to it. But you were making 10psi and the tial adaptor pipe can be installed at the same position or length.

Did the heat from the supercharger hitting the kink create a soft spot or cause degregation to the coupler in that area and now it won't hold its shape? :wtf:

I ran into this exact issue trying to use the 45 degree coupler off of the SC. That is why I went to a 90 degree and it does not collapse. BTW: I'm using the the stock 25mm Bosch BOV.

If someone has a good picture of how you can use the 45 degree coupler there I would love to see it. The only way I could see it working is if the outlet of the SC is pointing downward, almost straight down.

Ok guys I finally found a way to do it after getting hump hose couplers. Here's pretty much what I ended up doing.

1. The two bottom couplers are only attached to the pipes the width of the clamps.

2. The coupler that goes to the sc volute had to be forced up a bit on the side closest to you (the coupler will be in more on one side than the other - mounted slanted pretty much)

3. The bottom side of the 45 degree coupler - I shoved the pipe in ALOT more, which helped bring the piping at equal height to the bottom piping.

There's a negligible amount of kinking still, but it looks pretty damn good now. The only issue I'm having right now is that the pipe is touching my fog light now, but I'll deal with that later. Please refer to the pics for reference. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...9fa83f4886.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...1ae6efb574.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ab17af004f.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...67299a13a3.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...5757001c73.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...614737f9b4.jpg

Thanks for posting the pictures.

Are you using the 2.5 diameter pipe that is supplied with the A2A kit? Mine would not reach far enough to go very deep into the 45 degree coupler to keep it from collapsing.

Yes I am. Before, the 45 degree coupler was just in about an inch or so (the width of the clamp + a tiny bit more).

You should be able to push it in a decent amount in order to level the bottom of the piping with the BPV piping. Keep in mind that the piping will be bowed outward a bit, but that is what the hump hose couplers are for.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Who would be interested in ditching the Stillen intake manifold?

I have a design for an air to air upgrade that will simplify the entire stillen kit. You can re-use your stock intake manifold or you can upgrade to the GTR conversion from RJ MFG. PM me if your interested as I am working with them on giving you guys a complete kit to do this and take all the guess work out of this upgrade.

to clarify:

This would only require:
1. Rotating the SC'er
2. Vertical flow intercooler 1 in 2 out
3. 2 x bov
4. new piping
5. relocating the MAFs into the charge pipes
6. re-installing intake manifold or GTR conversion

I think I may try an experiment and see what happens. I'm planning on using two 90 degree mandrel bent 2.75 pipes, one at the SC outlet and one at the BOV coupler to the intercooler and couple them together with a short piece of straight 2.75. I'm not expecting much but I'm concerned about the reduction in pipe diameter to 2.5 inch for that section. At the low boost we are running compared to some of the turbos it probably won't make much difference, but then again you don't know until you try. My thought is to have as smooth of a transition as possible from the SC to the IC.

The intercooler in and out are both 2.5" so that would become the bottleneck at that point.

True, but I'm hoping the area increase at the 90 degree turns of the airflow will be less restrictive.

Do you know what Vortech charges for the SI upgrade?

That is why I suggest using the 45*. Follow the steps Milkcow posted and it should work good. There are a lot of others out there with this kit and this is the first i have heard of it being an issue. I think one guy posted that it wasn't an issue whatsoever.


The upgrade is $700 and i think shipping is on top of that. But, it will net you 2 psi more over your current trim.

Okay, I'll give it another try when I take the front end apart this weekend. I just don't understand how it will work. Guess I'll try jamming it together and see if it will stay open.

After talking to Seb and Vortech, it looks like the only way to reach my power goal is to upgrade to the Si. What I don't understand is why I'm down on power compared to what everyone else is seeing. Shouldn't I be at 420-430 whp at 8.4 psi?

Like I was saying on the phone, you have 44k on your belt that sounds like never had any conditioning. That serp belt across the 9psi pulley has like 25% wrap, 180 is suggested optimal, and is probably pretty dry. Hit it with that crc I suggested before anything else.

Stock cats? Those will cost you some serious power loss if so.

How much timing do you have?

You mean guesswork like this recent post?

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ease-help.html

Its all a part of Forced Induction.

But on the lighter side of things..Can't wait to see it! Seriously though, even if it pulls some guys away from this kit I would like to see your design.

I replicated my kit to help out forum members that wanted an A2A system. I think a dual intake design would be even better, pending price since 2 Tials will cost $500 alone.

When local buyer Z4life came to pick up his A2A kit I showed him how it is possible to make this kit utilizing the stock intake manifold, so he can attest to that. It is possible, so again, I would love to see your design.

The car has 42K miles on it. The belt is new that came with the kit so it has less than 1K miles. I'm using a 2.92 pulley on the SC with the larger idler so it has about 80% wrap. All of the other pulleys are the stock Stillen ones. I did pick up a can of the CRC to see if it helps.

Yes, stock cats.

Timing is 15-16 degrees from 3-7K rpm. AFR is 11.5, 8.4 max psi.

Seb is NOT finished with the tune yet so there is probably more power to come with him dialing it in. I'll be doing another log run either this evening or tomorrow. We have been having a bunch of pop up thunderstorms in the afternoon which is quite common for us this time of the year. I may and wait until tomorrow morning when it is cooler and less likely to be wet.

BTW: I did contact Gates about making a 7 rib 109 3/8" belt so that we could use the additional idler on the jackshaft drive AND have the proper width. They can do it but the setup fee is $10K and the minimum order is 100 belts. Ouch!

Damn, I will stick to my 6 rib belt. Been driving the car every other day and have had no issues with it. The only thing I get is no belt slip.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

I think that pressure test will help this along and hopefully you can put the 45* coupler back on.

Nice job on the research of the belt. But yeah, thats not gonna happen.

[QUOTE=Pauly Z;3534984]Damn, I will stick to my 6 rib belt. Been driving the car every other day and have had no issues with it. The only thing I get is no belt slip.

QUOTE]

Sounds like this option is a better way to go even if it is one rib short. I mean, you did pick up a whole psi so it has to be.

I'm going to try the six rib belt too. Ordering it now. Gates K061098

Pauly Z, if you could supply me with the info on the 2 inch pulley and what type of bolt / spacer is needed to use the 6 rib belt, it would be much appreciated.

Did a leak test this morning and when I got to 7 psi i did find one leak. It was at the joint where the 2.75 coupler is trying to clamp down on the 2.5 J pipe. I tightened the crap out of the clamp and got it to stop leaking. So then i took all of my solution back apart to try and get the 45 degree coupler to work. I probably should have just kept it together.

Trying to get the darn 45 degree coupler to work is not working out. From what I have gathered from the pictures posted I need to push the J pipe in as far as it will go in order to keep the coupler from collapsing. If I push the J pipe far enough up into the 45 degree coupler to keep it from collapsing it is then too short to reach the BOV coupler. I just don't understand why you guys can get this to work and I can't. Very frustrating.....:confused:

I'd like the pulley info as well please.

I understand how annoying it can be since it took me a good 3+ hours to get mine in position. Can you take some pics?

Did you try using hump hose couplers btw?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

I'm out of town in tampa right now. I will be home tomorrow and will give you the info

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Sorry but I'm not spending any more time with the 45. I have spent the past four hours trying to get it to work but the J pipe is just way too short to reach.

I'm going back to my original solution which was working. I'm using a 90 degree 2.75 then a a 2.75 to 2.75 coupler to extend the J pipe and then a reducing coupler (2.75 - 2.5) to get to the J pipe which is 2.5. It worked before. The only thing I can think of is that I got an incorrect J pipe.

Just made another run to check on the boost issue and no difference. Looks I have a belt slip issue though. The boost builds pretty linear up to around 6K rpm and then it is flattening out. At 3700 rpm boost is at 1.16 bar (2.32 psi), 5175 rpm 1.31 bar (4.5 psi), 6300 rpm the pressure is at 1.44 bar(6.38 psi), at 6775 rpm it was at 1.48 bar (7.2 psi) and when it reached 6950 rpm the pressure had DROPPED to 1.37 bar (5.37 psi).

I was going to use some of the CRC belt dressing to see if it would help and then the rain came. Looks like it will be here for awhile. If it dries up before dark I'll try the belt dressing otherwise it will have to wait until tomorrow.

Can you take a pic of the top of the supercharger? If the volute isn't rotated enough then I can see how the pipe would come up short.

And yeah you should not be going negative in higher rpm bands. But with a new belt and the same setup as most I'm not sure how you are getting that amount of slip. I can see how it would stop building boost but loosing that much up top is strange.

Here is the picture you asked for.

I don't think the clocking of the volute can be the problem because the J pipe is at least 5-6 inches too short to work. If I connect it to the BOV coupler it will barely reach the 45, not even enough to get it deep enough to be held on by a clamp much less keeping the 45 open during the bend.

No that's the problem. The volute isn't clocked right. Clock it per the instructions sent and it will fit like the rest have fit.

Way up at the top of the L pipe where the coupler is, is the fulcrum of that pipe position. If it is turned off the volute 1 inch then that translates to 5 inches at the connection point to the coupler.

Its like taping a straw to a quarter. Rotate the quarter a half inch and watch the other end of the straw move 10 inches.

It really has to be installed correctly in order for it to work.

I was the first to get this kit from Topgunz and just wanted to update everyone. My car is still running very strong and have had 0 problems at all. We worked through issues when I got the kit to get everything to fit and function correctly. When installing this kit, you need to follow the instructions to the T or the kit will not work right. This includes using the supplied couplers, tubing, and trimming out the pieces on the car that enable each part of the kit to fit. The kit isn't going to fit perfectly at first because no kit ever does. It takes time and patience but in the end you will be more than happy that you took the time to install everything correctly. I have nothing but great things to say about Aaron and the kit and how this kit has made my car a different animal not only because it added much more HP than the original setup but that it made my car much more safe to drive. So for all the skeptics and non believers you are missing out if you do not have this kit. It has 0 issues if you install and take the time to do things right the first time. This isn't directed towards anyone at all I just wanted to give my input since I was the first to get the kit. If you are having problems with installing the kit, don't get upset and just continue to work towards getting it right. We are all here to help and if you have a problem I'm positive someone will have a solution to help you get it right.

So you are saying that if I clock the volute by about 10 degrees it will make up for six inches of length? Go back and look at the J pipe picture I posted. It is 15 inches long from one end to the other and is about six inches too short to work. Changing the clocking may get me an additional inch but not enough to work. I think the J pipe that I have is too short. Please check the dimension of what I should have.

Right now I am focusing on the belt slip issue. Hopefully Pauly Z can get us the parts list we need to add in the idler and longer belt.

From the top this is how far my volute is clocked. Looks like yours needs to go another inch or more. That notch on mine is directly in the middle of the casing.

Ok, back from Tampa. Parts are all from Napa.
Pulley- 54 mm #36375
Belt- Micro V 6 rib #061093
You will also need a bolt, washers, and a drive belt pulley spacer.

You need to take your time to ensure that the belt is lined up properly on each pulley. TAKE YOUR TIME or else you could cause some damage.

I have not had one issue with this setup and have no belt slip what so ever.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

10 degrees was just a number is used as a comparison. However, I am saying if you follow the install instructions then it should work. Your clocking is WAY off. Line it up like in the pictures in the work instructions. With the volute aimed straight at the fender like that there is no way for a 45 to geometrically make a 90 degree turn. If the volute is perfectly horizontal, in order for it to go to another object that is below it, it would have to make a 90 degree bend. If the volute is 45 degrees already and you add a 45 degree coupler then it will be able to align with another plane that is below that plane.

I measured my J pipe and it is the exact same length of mine and the other 10 kits that have been installed per instructions and they do not have any problems. Milkcow did have a problem after swapping some things around but he was making 10psi after the shop installed it and i spoke to them on the phone and they never mentioned the coupler kinking once. They did however have the IC brackets on upside down and I have fixed that by marking the direction on the back side of the brackets.

Okay, thanks for the info. Not sure when I will have time to do this but will give it a try the next time I have things apart.

What kind of gap should I have between the volute and frame rail?

Many thanks! The only other pulley I could find was a 50mm but it was way too wide at 1.5 inches where we need 28 mm (1.1 inches). I'll get the pulley from NAPA tomorrow and check out their bolts and such while I'm there.

I have the 8 rib and 6 rib belts on the way. I am trying an experiment to see if I can remove one rib from the 8 rib to make it a 7. If it doesn't work then the 6 will go on.

Question, just how tight does the 8 rib SC belt need to be? Right now mine is very tight. Anyone measured it with a belt tension meter?

Basically trim the lip all the way down to the frame, then I'd leave a good 2mm gap in there for motor movement.

Let me find a pic.

Also, the sc shouldn't be too tight. All your slip is in the serp. I could twist mine almost 90.

Boom

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/...pskryhpwzb.jpg

Is there anyone that has bought this kit that is able to provide the dimensions and weight of the kit when it was shipped to you? I'm in the process of trying to figure the shipping to where I am at as the shipping costs for this kit only covers the 48 states and I am over seas.

Any info will be greatly appreciated. I reached out to Topz but I guess he's been busy

If someone can help Bolio out that would be great. SInce i ship one box directly from Treadstone i do not have a way to measure that. I am away for work until Friday again so i can get you a dimension on the box that i send when i get back.

But, if someone that has recently received a kit they could measure both boxes also.

Just so you guys know, there should be a handful of guys putting up dyno numbers later this week and into next week. The results are going to be awesome!

Yes. I just need an the box dimensions and an estimated weight on both boxes to get me a figure for shipping since I am over seas! Any info would be greatly appreciated.