That’s awesome to know that u were able to get this kit to work with such slight modifications.

Just started tuning with Seb

BTW, The Tial is absolutely annoying. It is just loud.... ALL.THE.TIME. If i give little load and constant throttle, the valve closes just slightly (not all the way) and starts sounding like a jet engine! Ewww, just ewwwwwww. And if I play with the throttle, I can make a "slurping" sound just the moment the valve is going to close.

Tial Q btw. I just ordered the recirc. bottom section so I can make a silencer for it. But gooood lord, it sounds like a massive wooosh of $hit.

Do you have a link to that recurculate part please ?

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https://stmtuned.com/collections/uni...bottom-portion

I went with 1.5".

Awsome thanks

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I have an brand new, never used red one I'd sell.

Edit. I see you're in the UK, shipping would probably be outrageous.

Agh yeah
More than likely
Cheers anyway man

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pm'ed

Don't order from STMtuned right now. I posted a link a couple days ago for the bottom half, they have an automated answering message and NOT responding to customers email. Try Amazon

That's who I ordered the bottom half that you're looking at buying from me. They shipped mine right away. Maybe I got the last one. :icon17:

Taking my kit apart for some changes and I noticed a little bit of oil sitting in the pipe that comes from the supercharger to the intercooler. Is this a bad sign lol?

http://imgur.com/a/qeruBkK

Also something worth mentioning, the rubber seals between the throttle bodies and plenum are fully shot some how.

http://imgur.com/a/I1EddWW

tldr e85 Dyno - https://imgur.com/129aDFN

So finally my car is good to go! Ended up swapping in a stock 2nd hand low KM (miles for you guys) motor and continued on, currently running no air filter, waiting for turboguard to come. It was tappering off at 340-350KW~ and 6000-6500rpm and I told the tuners to rip off the air filter off as I've seen many others running without one and it's super restrictive, then boom, just over 400KW at the wheels (approx 550HP) without pushing etc.. I asked them to leave it there and not push any further.

I feel my boost levels are a bit low though, I've got the internals upgraded to the Si trim, running the stillen 9lb pulley, so was expecting around 12-13psi~? After a while I'll think about changing some pulleys and going more, right now I'm running 1050idx injectors and don't really want to start changing more again, already had to upgrade the 340 pump, went to a 525 so I could go next stage if needed.

It was making about 325KW on pump fuel and 6500RPM. All in all changing to e85 gained the peak power + 10-15% through-out the rev range, loving the extra power, on Nitto invo's in top of 3rd gear it starts to lose traction.

Hi forum,

Created a thread regarding horrible idle with my supercharger setup. Originally posted it here, but I had the issues with the Air-water set up as well as air-air

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...desperate.html

^ update to above. I put a straight through fitting and did squat with the idle. Still idles high after some driving

Not sure this helps but your pump is way too small for 1050cc and your cats might be blown.

Wouldn't the smaller pump affect WOT as well? I trapped 420wHP @10psi with the set up. Everything is great, just not idle.

So 550RWHP is fun but ready for the next level, I've already upgraded fuel pump to handle more, basically as far as I am aware I need to upgrade 2x pulleys and injectors.

Are these the right pulleys to up boost a bit??
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vor-2a038-300
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/VOR-2A038-347

Already running S1.SE fuel system etc.. + this air to air kit and blower upgrdeded with Si trim.

I've got the Tbat pulley on the front, was there something else needed on supercharger side?

Now I'm seeing something about head lift somewhere? do we do ARP headstuds to stop it or?

Cheers guys!

The 3.47 pulley you'll be installing on the jackshaft on the sc side is a different offset than the stock 3.2 and will stick out towards the motor approximately 1/2" which mean it won't be aligned with the sc or tensioner pulleys. You'll need to add spacers on the sc shaft and tensioner pulley to make up the difference. Assuming you already have the 9lb pulley on the jackshaft (serpentine side)l you'll be spinning the sc at close to 63000 rpm. Don't expect the oil slinger to last too long.

Boost wise, you'll also be in head lift territory. I'm not sure that just adding ARP headstuds will cure that.

Also, what fuel are you running? You'll be at a boost level where e85 may be needed.

Cheers mate, I'm already running the 9lb pulley from the standard stillen kit, so what is required to boost it a bit more but keep everything as is? Or is that what everyone else has had to do as well?

My blower has been upgraded and doesn't have it's own oil reservoir anymore, oil is circulated through it via engine.

What else is needed to stop head lift? Do the other long block motors for sale at places capable of 800-1000hp already have this done as well?

I'm already running straight E85

Hey Mike,

The standard stillen kit has an 8 lb pulley. The 9 lb pulley measures 2.87". You may want to double check the measurement.

I forgot, you upgraded your blower and it's not self contained anymore so it doesn't have the oil slinger.

What you could do is what I did and install a wastegate and electronic boost controller. That way you can regulate your boost. Keep it on the low boost or spring pressure (off position) which would keep the boost in the safe zone and the times when you feel the need for more boost, switch to high boost. Even on the high boost setting, you'll probably been in the 17 or so psi range so you may never have any head lift issues at that psi especially if you're not running 17 psi full time.

As far as what else is needed to stop head lift, there are a couple shops (SOHO and Mazworx) that have come up with a solution. It's pretty much a trade secret and I'm not sure what all they do.

If you are still on a stock motor it is the rods/pistons that you need to worry about first. Once you get to 700whp you will need to address the head lift issue. Above 700whp it starts to get expensive. At 700whp you will need at least ARP L1900 or ARP625 head studs. A high quality MLS gasket will hold at that 700whp.

Thanks guys, another mention, I drive my car once a month if lucky :) so very little miles get done on it overall, are those pulleys right though? (previous threads I've seen them mentioned to get another 2-3psi) I'm only hitting 10 psi right now on current kit, straight through exhaust at 7k rpm~

I've got the 9lb pulley, opted for it when buying the kit, will triple check measurement though.

So get these studs also? https://www.z1motorsports.com/engine...hr-p-4755.html

redondoaveb - I see you have 680whp/530ft.lbs, what over and above have you done to get there?

I've done all the basics E85 fuel only - a2a upgrade/upgrade impeller/s1.se return fuel/larger pump/injectors/9lb stillen pulley, how'd you get 19.5 psi? what pulley changes are needed?

dyno graph is here pretty sure my FB is all public (keep in mind I am in Australia, our dyno's seem to read about 10-15% lower for some reason, so not chasing just a figure only but at least boost should be similar) - https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...20000..&type=3

You won't get near to 19.5 PSI with that Vortex SC no matter what pulleys/impeller you use.

I did (but I blew my motor) :rofl2:

OkI was running the 9lb, 3.47 jackshaft sc side and a 2.85 sc pulley. I blew my motor at that psi though. It made 16.76 psi with the 9lb, 3.47 jackshaft sc side and 3.00 sc pulley and still made 680whp/510ft.lbs. and was dependable. It didn't make boost as quickly as the 3.47/2.85 combo but in hindsight, I probably should have stayed with it.

Spinning the V3 at that speed takes it way way out of it's efficiency island. Do you know the intake temps?

Hey Aaron, are you asking about mine?

Is there an easy upgrade to this kit for more power without sacrificing reliability? I think people have mentioned a pulley and impeller upgrade? Is there a general consensus safe upgrade to boost the stock kit's power? I'm not looking to upgrade to e85 right now.

If you don't want to upgrade to e85 then you're limited to 91 octane and the amount of boost you can run without detonation. Which is somewhere around 13 psi. You're best off with the 9lb pulley upgrade

Water/Meth injection and the Si impeller if you do not already have it.

Can I run just the si impeller and 9lb pulley without water/meth injection? About how much power would that add?

How much boost are you making right now? I saw in your signature that your car's making 488whp. You're currently making that with the Sci impeller in 91?

Stock kit installed and tuned by seb at specialty z. I think I'm making 9 lbs.

You should be able to run the Si impeller and the 9lb pulley without water/meth. I ran both of those on Topgunz's gen 1 kit tuned by Seb. 488whp on the Sci and 8lb pulley that you're running right now is a great number on 91. You should do real well with the impeller and pulley upgrade

Reliability will still be good? I might email Seb and ask about it, see how much it would cost and if he has any thoughts. Kind of tempted by 2 piece lightweight rotors also.

Reliability will be fine. You may have to send the sc to vortech have the impeller installed. I don't think they'll sell just the impeller. Seb has done 3 sc upgrades on my car. I started with the Si impeller and 9lb pulley but I was on flex fuel. My car will be going to Seb soon for a FI tt install.

Belt size
 

Hey guys, I am about to install the anti slip pulley, do I need a new and longer serpentine belt?

No