Any updates?

Got it running with the speed density base tune. Had a couple MAF codes thrown at first but Seb tuned them out. Couple idle logs later it seems to be running pretty good, but that's as far as I've got - haven't got it out of the garage for a street tune yet, which is what I'm ready for as soon as the two blocks of snow packed roads between my house and the clear main roads melts off. Been nice all week so hopefully it won't be long.

This is with the temporary charge pipe I'd made up. Still working on my UPS claim bullsh*t :mad:

So for the guys that said the bracket mounting holes were off...I finally get it. Treadstone completely changed their mounting brackets on the side of the intercooler I use from them. When i lined them up after hearing that i was like..man, these are pretty dang close and thought there was like a mil tolerance on them for some reason..lol. Now i see!

Treadstone seems to like to do this sort of thing. When I had bought my BP kit i called sasha and was like "the holes are way off" and we figured out they did the same thing to his. DIRTY!

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/...se1svsrya.jpeg

I have a lot of guys asking questions that were posted in a previous thread when i began making this kit for myself. I keep telling them to imagine all the air coming out of the exhaust at 7500rpms. All of that air has to come into the engine and pass through. THIS. And this is trying to cool it all when it is sitting in a manifold that can fry an egg.

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/...psayftjgdk.jpg

When you put it that way, it seems silly.

Okay looking to pull the trigger on this in next couple weeks.

Haven't gone through the whole thread yet, was previously keeping up but weeks and weeks ago.

Is anyone running Upgraded trim supercharger + E85 + retuned on UpRev still on this kit? These were my plans.

I've had a custom tune done with the current standard 9psi kit, would it be suitable to drive very sedately to a tuner after installing A2A kit?

If you stay with uprev and have 9psi pulley with si impeller you will need the buy the GT Mafs or they will max out. So that leaves you with either buying the mafs or buying ecutek with the map sensor.

Getting it to the tuner is iffy. If he is close enough it might be doable. But towing it there is probably a better idea. A trailer from Uhaul is like $40 for the day.

This just makes Stillens sales blurb and diagrams such a joke going on about "cool air" with their after cooler and heat soak with a traditional front mounted intercooler, etc, etc. If you haven't read it you should. So opposite to reality and such BS! :shakes head:

You guys are tee'ing the line for your boost gauge off the line from the manifold to BOV/BPV right?

Not sure if this gauge I got is fubar or not.

Mine is teed off right off after the manifold.


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Thanks, that's exactly where mine is. Gauge fubar, problem solved

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I've had bad luck with gauges, it's frustrating.


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I used PLX Boost gauge and had no problem with it.

This is so true...pics don't do it justice....when I saw how much room that thing took up in the manifold and how much free air is now available with it gone...let's just say restrictive is an understatement.....I don't know how the thing doesn't choke up....it's design makes the so called "long plenum runners" on Stillens Manifold useless.

They really did design this kit to max out at that 8psi mark where the intake temps are still somewhat manageable by this thing. I can see why they wouldn't sell the 9psi pulley without a warranty waiver.

Hit my first stumbling block today
My tunner has done all the partial throttle stuff which went fine.
When he reached anywhere near 3/4000 rpm he says he's experiencing a lot of knock and the car pulls a shed load of timing and the ecu drops load he can't figure out what's doing it
He can hear nothing in the det cans so suspects false knock I wondering if a pipe is touching somewhere giving me vibration or something.
He's pulled it off the dyno for now for ecutek to check the software but suspects it's hardware
Anyone else had issues like this
I'm sure I read a thred in here about a guy with this issue that tried everything to solve the knock sensor going mad

edit
just spoke with topz my tial is on wrong
hopefullly this was the issue and it hasnt done any damage else ill be going forged :(

QUOTE"just spoke with topz my tial is on wrong "


hey topunz....i dont feel so bad or STUPID now!!!!!!

I dont know if it was you who posted up about your tial with a picture
But thank you you have possible saved me a lot of grief
I realy hope this is the issue

Even if it isn't it wasn't right so thanks :bowrofl:

Just for a bit of amusement thought I'd throw this up here.

From the first moment I saw this Y-Pipe design as part of the original kit it never sat right with me. Always had suspicions of issues with inconsistent readings. Now I've already ordered TopgunZ's kit but thought in the meantime set out to prove just how inefficient the Y-Pipe really is.

My suspicions came from the idea that even with the recommended air deflection plate Stillen insist you use (redundant for me as I had the FrozenBoost Heat Exchanger which completely blocked my front bar opening thus preventing the problem the deflection plate resolves) there simply isn't enough time/length between air entering the Pod Filter to settle into a steady flow before hitting the MAFs. This is a problem for those who tried doing a Hybrid MAF/MAP tune since driveability suffers as a result.

Prior to working with Seb, a previous Tuner decided to bridge my MAFs to get around this. But long story short, didn't really work out too well, and my MAFs were maxing out at about 4000 RPM.

So I undid the bridge, got Seb to eTune, and picked up some generic 2.5" pipes & couplers to extend the distance between Pod & MAF and the results were pretty promising, see attached. Both done @ idle. Gave accelerator a small stab in the second.

This was done pretty much for sh*ts & giggles, and utterly redundant once the A2A kit finally arrives. Just makes me question all the more who the hell oversaw the design of this kit and who approved it in the end at Stillen.

TL: DR - Hated Y-Pipe from beginning because path of air too short between Pod & MAF. Bought some cheap 2.5" pipes & couplers to extend that path. Logs showed a marked improvement.

...not even going to get started on that atrocity of a silicone coupler piece at the SC itself... :shakes head:

After reading about all the flaws in the Stillen kit, I would never put it on my car unless I was rerotfitting this A2A kit with it. It's unfortunate for those who didn't have the chance to learn about said flaws.

Can I see some dyno results of the Stillen + TG A2A upgrade?

What pages are they on?

Cheers.

That whole kit is lunacy, the shortcomings many.

I did find a use for that cast aluminum Y pipe at least... to cut off the flanges and weld them on my temporary charge pipe :icon17:

Is this on e85 or 93?


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This is on E85 with the Si trim. There was also belt slip at 6800 as you can see both hp/tq drop there.

Torque is pretty linear isn't it.

Extremely. That is a cenrifugal superchargers thing. They are very predictable. Also, easier on components like rods and trannys since it is brought in so smooth where turbos hit hard and pd blowers slam it in at the throttle.

Why does the belt slip occur, and how does one prevent it?

It slips because there is about 30* of belt wrap around that stillen pulley (design flaw). To prevent it you do the 2" extra pulley mod and longer belt. Start at page 66.

It might be easier to specify a post #... The number of posts per page is a configurable option on this forum so whenever folks specify a page# it's difficult to find. For example, I have my posts/page maxed out so this thread is only 36 pages long.

Starts at post #878. Also, talk to Tbatt. He is selling the machined spacer for it.

had a local shop weld on an aluminum plate on the front of my manifold today. Turned out nice!

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g7...131_132100.jpg

Can you post a pic of the correct way to put your tial on? VS the way you used to have it on... I was confused on this too. I found this webpage that said it can go two ways
TiAL QRJ BOV review | TimmySpec Racing Products

this is the way I have mine setup now, with the valve towards the pressurized source, other people have it with the valve facing the exhaust/blow off side

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g7...111_214121.jpg

Is there an actual right or wrong way?

Perhaps one way is less prone to part throttle fluttering? Or might that even depend on the type of BOV. I'm just road tuning mine right now and have it aimed away from the snail and am getting lots of flutter. Maybe I'll try the other way and see what happens.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f5c5d8fa90.jpg

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Thanks Milkcow.... That is the way I had it at first too. But if you put it the other way (option B in my pic) the pressurized air path is more streamlined and does not have to fill up the tial. We have not started the tune yet (still doing e85 stuff) so I am not sure if it even works with option B. I am just going off of what people have said and looking at pics of tials on other cars. Has anyone tried it yet like I have drawn in option B?

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g7...%20OPTIONS.jpg

I had it stood up to start with and now it's on its side
I'm yet to hear from my tunner if it's solved the issues he was seing

But the way I read that article about the tial was it was better stood up in high boost applications??

Maybey I'm wrong
I'll keep you all posted on if this solves my issues

This is interesting. I just followed the instructions that came with the QRJ that state to mount it as picture A.

I have just spoken to my tunner
My cars back on the dyno today so I should find out if it's made any difference swapping the tial around

Side note he said my whole system south ds a lot louder than before
Couldn't specify which bit tho
I assumed this was from the different intercooler/filter set up

Anyone notice there car sounding different with the a2a kit compared to stillen ?