Hazard Switch Wiring Diagram

synolimit · 11-11-2013, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

Ah. For some reason I was under the impression that your wiring was different than the '09 FSM I'm using. Apparently it's just the wire colors..

I'm hoping so. I mean I know the power of both are in for on/off and out for illum and 1-2-3-4 are all in the same spots on both clips. If a grounds a ground it shouldn't matter although if I did only use 1 I'd have to use the one for function of on/off and not illum.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

You only need one of the grounds (assuming the other end of both wires is a good ground, which it should be). I'd go ahead and connect both ground wires. If you only connect one, use the largest wire (but I'm guessing they are the same size)..

The wires on the pig tail are all the same size. The wires on the main harness that the pig tail clips into are all smaller but one. The one that's different is even bigger than the wires in the pig tail. That's the one that the orange wire attaches to on the hazards which appears to be a ground and its on the outside which possibly means the ground for the illum of the hazard LED. But that's odd because the ground on the outside for the s-mode illum is a really small wire like all the main harness wires are. The big wire I'm talking about is solid black though. Since all my body panels are off you can see every ground bundle of 10 or so all over the car are all solid black wires of different thicknesses.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

It is "good engineering" to isolate computer circuits from "external" circuits but that's a bit of overkill in a modern car where you have excellent grounding. Plus, this is a digital I/O line, not an analog sensor, and noise is not as critical when you are looking for on/off. Theoretically, separate circuits would be best; in practice, it doesn't make a lot of difference. I'm guessing that the reason Nissan did it their way is: If the ground for 3-terminal switch has high resistance (eg, corroded connection), then it would be possible for the power going to the light to feed into the switch circuit (and vice versa) - as long as you have a good ground, that shouldn't be a problem. Even with a poor ground, it shouldn't be unsafe, to you or the car, in your situation. It might not work right, but it shouldn't do any harm..

Well since I'm just plugging into the main harness in a way, the other ends where ever they go, the engineers of the grounds and such have already been taken care of. I just need to know now which wire goes where on the new aftermarket switch. O I gotcha. Kinda like new homes doing isolated water lines for everything in the house. No pressure drops and if there is a leak it can be turned off easy without draining the whole houses water lines.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

As long as you have a good ground, the light should work properly. The "other" end of both wires are grounded and at the same potential, so, electrically, the terminal ends are the same.

Why would I need a ground using the factory wires just plugged into the new switch? Or are you talking about a good ground within the new switch?

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