Hazard Switch Wiring Diagram

synolimit · 11-10-2013, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

Do NOT hook up power to the center terminals!!! Power for the switch is provided by the BCM. It is a "sinking" input - that terminal on the BCM is hot until you press the button and then it is sunk to ground potential.

I'm not sure about the light. I didn't see anything in the FSM whilst looking up the other info (doesn't mean it's not there, just that I didn't see it). What I would try is activating the switch and taking some readings with a voltage meter. One of the outside terminals should have 12V when the flashers are on (may be pulsing) and the other outside terminal will probably go to ground.

No I mean the new switch has a led prong, ground prong, and 12v/power prong. I'd only be hooking the existing wires to the new switch.

So to start and be safe...hook the middle 2 wires to the new switch marked ground and 12v. Only thing is my plug isn't labeled with numbers and my wires are different colors. Ill do some testing first I guess.

SouthArk370Z · 11-10-2013, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

No I mean the new switch has a led prong, ground prong, and 12v/power prong. I'd only be hooking the existing wires to the new switch.

So to start and be safe...hook the middle 2 wires to the new switch marked ground and 12v. Only thing is my plug isn't labeled with numbers and my wires are different colors. Ill do some testing first I guess.

Ah. Sorry about the confusion.

Should be pretty easy to verify the stock wiring. One of the wires (the one from the BCM) should be hot (12V) and the associated ground wire should have continuity to ground. For the light, one of the wires should have 12V (possible pulsing) when the flashers are turned on and the associated ground wire should have continuity to ground.
You can check the grounds with the car off. I think the BCM power to the switch is on all the time (so you can operated the flashers when the car is off).

synolimit · 11-10-2013, 06:46 PM

Just checked the main wire harness if it matters, they are all different colors. The pig tail that the white and grey plugs go to one main plug that plugs into the main harness the colors are as follows

Grey plug/synco

Black w/ yellow stripe goes to solid black on main harness
Black w/ red stripe goes to solid black
Green w/ white stripe goes to solid green
Dark blue with silver spots goes to solid dark blue

White plug/hazards

Orange goes to a thick solid black wire (only wire bigger than the others)
Green goes to solid black
Black with silver spots goes to solid silver
Light blue goes to solid red

synolimit · 11-10-2013, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

Ah. Sorry about the confusion.

Should be pretty easy to verify the stock wiring. One of the wires (the one from the BCM) should be hot (12V) and the associated ground wire should have continuity to ground. For the light, one of the wires should have 12V (possible pulsing) when the flashers are turned on and the associated ground wire should have continuity to ground.
You can check the grounds with the car off. I think the BCM power to the switch is on all the time (so you can operated the flashers when the car is off).

No worries

Ok please don't make fun! My light test stopped working so I made this haha and I don't have a volt meter. Here's what I found out...I put one nail to a ground source and the other nail touched all the harness wires for both buttons...

Hazards...

Orange wire- does nothing ever (possible ground since it connects to the thick black one on the main harness)
Green wire- with the car on or off, when my light tester touches the green wire the hazards turn on like they should (a circuit is being completed using the light bulb)
Black wire- does nothing ever (possible ground)
Light blue wire- with key turned on it does nothing, with headlights on the tester light lights up (the button LED wire)

Synco

Green w/ white stripe- nothing ever (possible ground)
Dark blue wire- with key turned on it does nothing, with headlights on the tester light lights up (the button LED wire)
Black w/ red stripe- with the car on the tester light lights up
Black w/ yellow stripe- does nothing ever (possible ground)

So with only a 3 prong switch, which ground wires out of the possibly 2 do I use?

SouthArk370Z · 11-10-2013, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Ok please don't make fun! My light test stopped working so I made this haha and I don't have a volt meter. Here's what I found out...I put one nail to a ground source and the other nail touched all the harness wires for both buttons...

Not the best solution but sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Hazards...
Orange wire- does nothing ever (possible ground since it connects to the thick black one on the main harness)
Green wire- with the car on or off, when my light tester touches the green wire the hazards turn on like they should (a circuit is being completed using the light buld)
Black wire- does nothing ever (possible ground)
Light blue wire- with key turned on it does nothing, with headlights on the tester light lights up (the button LED wire)

Orange & Black = ground. One of those will be the switched side of the switch. In this case, that wire will be grounded, too. With a meter, you could measure resistance to ground and verify. To tell which one is the switch, you need an ohmmeter or continuity checker.
Green. That will be the wire from the BCM.
Lt Blue = illumination. If the light is normally on with the dash lights (I haven't noticed mine), then I think you got that one right, too. It would be nice to be able to check the voltage as the dash lights are adjusted to confirm this.

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Synco
Green w/ white stripe- nothing ever (possible ground)
Dark blue wire- with key turned on it does nothing, with headlights on the tester light lights up (the button LED wire)
Black w/ red stripe- with the car on the tester light lights up
Black w/ yellow stripe- does nothing ever (possible ground)

Grn/Wht & Blk/Yel = ground. See above.
Drk Blue. Same as Lt Blue above.
Blk/Red. Should be coming from the BCM but I haven't look at the schematic so it may be Ign.

A cheap multimeter from the auto parts store (or WalMart, or Radio Shack, or ...) will be good enough for what you are doing and they can be found for $5-20.

synolimit · 11-10-2013, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

Not the best solution but sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

Orange & Black = ground. One of those will be the switched side of the switch. In this case, that wire will be grounded, too. With a meter, you could measure resistance to ground and verify. To tell which one is the switch, you need an ohmmeter or continuity checker.
Green. That will be the wire from the BCM.
Lt Blue = illumination. If the light is normally on with the dash lights (I haven't noticed mine), then I think you got that one right, too. It would be nice to be able to check the voltage as the dash lights are adjusted to confirm this.

Grn/Wht & Blk/Yel = ground. See above.
Drk Blue. Same as Lt Blue above.
Blk/Red. Should be coming from the BCM but I haven't look at the schematic so it may be Ign.

A cheap multimeter from the auto parts store (or WalMart, or Radio Shack, or ...) will be good enough for what you are doing and they can be found for $5-20.

Yeah I know haha.

So do the grounds matter being one switch and one not?

I'll buy a meter but I guess I'm planning to..

Green=12v prong on switch
Lt blue=LED prong on switch
Orange and black or just one or the other=ground prong on switch

Grn/Wht and Blk/Yel or just one or the other=ground prong on switch
Drk Blue=LED prong on switch
Blk/Red=12v prong on switch

SouthArk370Z · 11-10-2013, 10:46 PM

A ground is a ground but which one of those grounds goes to the switch is important when you do your rewiring since you don't seem to be sure that the switch pins are in the middle of the connector and the illum pins are on the outside as per the FSM I have.

You seem to be adept at Redneck Engineering, so run a hot wire to one side of your test lamp (use a fuse) and a wire from one side of the switch (the uninstalled switch, not the wiring) to ground. Wire the other end of the test light to the other terminal on the switch. You should have a series circuit from hot to light to switch to ground. Push the button and the light should come on. This will verify the switch terminals and you should be able to tell which wire it is from that.

Just thought of this and don't want to edit all that above: You can use the light for the ground wire and run the hot straight to the switch.

synolimit · 11-11-2013, 03:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

A ground is a ground but which one of those grounds goes to the switch is important when you do your rewiring since you don't seem to be sure that the switch pins are in the middle of the connector and the illum pins are on the outside as per the FSM I have.

You seem to be adept at Redneck Engineering, so run a hot wire to one side of your test lamp (use a fuse) and a wire from one side of the switch (the uninstalled switch, not the wiring) to ground. Wire the other end of the test light to the other terminal on the switch. You should have a series circuit from hot to light to switch to ground. Push the button and the light should come on. This will verify the switch terminals and you should be able to tell which wire it is from that.

Just thought of this and don't want to edit all that above: You can use the light for the ground wire and run the hot straight to the switch.

I'm sure your right and it would make sense. Middle 2 (1 and 2) are for the switch on/off of hazards and s-mode and outside 2 (3 and 4) are for when the lights come on so you can see the button at night.

Lol hey I turn a wrench great, just never learned, studied, read up on electronics and stuff. If the manual doesn't say red to green, blue to black etc I'm lost.

Took me a minute to understand all that but I already know what my terminals will be for the new switch so I don't need to do all that (unless I'm totally lost). I'm getting confused because we might be talking about 2 different things.

Here's my switch...

Box says 1 prong for 12v, 1 prong for ground, and 1 prong LED (it's the single copper one)

So if grounds a ground then just hook the orange and black together and run them to the ground prong on the new switch and Blk/yel and gre/wht together on the other switch?

But I feel that's wrong or why else would nissan make a 4 wire switch when 3 would do? I think I'll need to leave 1 ground wire taped up. the inside of the new switch has the LED able to be grounded using the negative side of the LED to the ground prong already in place?

I guess using just one ground would mean unlike OEM where I'll have a button light off during the day and on at night with the headlight, the new switch and LED I'll have to decide if its a 24/7 on light or only on when I turn the headlights on...

synolimit · 11-11-2013, 07:15 PM

Sure do...

SouthArk370Z · 11-11-2013, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Sure do...

To wire that switch as a remote for the flasher button, connect the BCM wire to 3 and connect 1 & 2 to ground. The way the switch/light is configured the light will either be on ALL the time (if BCM wire is connected to 2) or never (with BCM to 3). Edit: Since the light won't work anyway, no sense in hooking up 1.

It may work if you connect BCM to 3 and only connect 1 to ground; nothing connected to two. This will put the LED in series with the BCM/ground which may give the circuit too much resistance. Worth a try. Can't harm anything. Light would be on when the switch is on; no flash.

synolimit · 11-11-2013, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

To wire that switch as a remote for the flasher button, connect the BCM wire to 3 and connect 1 & 2 to ground. The way the switch/light is configured the light will either be on ALL the time (if BCM wire is connected to 2) or never (with BCM to 3). Edit: Since the light won't work anyway, no sense in hooking up 1.

It may work if you connect BCM to 3 and only connect 1 to ground; nothing connected to two. This will put the LED in series with the BCM/ground which may give the circuit too much resistance. Worth a try. Can't harm anything. Light would be on when the switch is on; no flash.

If no harm comes I'll go try now as I just got home with the switches.

SouthArk370Z · 11-11-2013, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

If no harm comes I'll go try now as I just got home with the switches.

If it works, the light may be dim. There is a resistor in the BCM that limits current for the sinking circuit.

synolimit · 11-11-2013, 11:24 PM

To simplify this I'm no long going to talk about the pig tail...just the main wire harness as seen in the picture.

Just for reference though, pig tail colors to main harness

Orange to main is thick black- ground
Lt blue to main is red- LED in OEM button turns on when headlights turn on
Black to main is grey- ground
Green to main is pink- when this wire is grounded at any time (car on or off) the hazards come on.

Ok, pink and grey go together and the hazards work but no LED. Black and red go together and I get the bright LED but no hazards. I take it this is it? I either get a LED or I get the hazards which of course I want.

Any other configuration I do, I either get a dim LED or a bright LED except if I do pink and red together I get hazards but again no LED.

SouthArk370Z · 11-11-2013, 11:39 PM

Yep. With that switch, you can't have your cake and eat it too.

The problem is that you are working with a sinking circuit and most switch/light combos are meant to switch power to a device. That's why Nissan used a four terminal switch/light.

synolimit · 11-11-2013, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

Yep. With that switch, you can't have your cake and eat it too.

The problem is that you are working with a sinking circuit and most switch/light combos are meant to switch power to a device. That's why Nissan used a four terminal switch/light.

Lol gotcha. And FYI I have to do grey and pink to prongs 2 and 3. Using the actually ground prong for the switch (number 1) doesn't work. Now off to do the s-mode. I'm thinking using 2 and 3 again and the middle two wires will do it, I hope.

11-10-2013, 06:46 PM	#3 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3390	Just checked the main wire harness if it matters, they are all different colors. The pig tail that the white and grey plugs go to one main plug that plugs into the main harness the colors are as follows Grey plug/synco Black w/ yellow stripe goes to solid black on main harness Black w/ red stripe goes to solid black Green w/ white stripe goes to solid green Dark blue with silver spots goes to solid dark blue White plug/hazards Orange goes to a thick solid black wire (only wire bigger than the others) Green goes to solid black Black with silver spots goes to solid silver Light blue goes to solid red __________________ 13 370z-

11-10-2013, 10:46 PM	#7 (permalink)
SouthArk370Z Premium Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: South Arkansas Posts: 8,435 Drives: 2014 Challenger Rep Power: 324198	A ground is a ground but which one of those grounds goes to the switch is important when you do your rewiring since you don't seem to be sure that the switch pins are in the middle of the connector and the illum pins are on the outside as per the FSM I have. You seem to be adept at Redneck Engineering, so run a hot wire to one side of your test lamp (use a fuse) and a wire from one side of the switch (the uninstalled switch, not the wiring) to ground. Wire the other end of the test light to the other terminal on the switch. You should have a series circuit from hot to light to switch to ground. Push the button and the light should come on. This will verify the switch terminals and you should be able to tell which wire it is from that. Just thought of this and don't want to edit all that above: You can use the light for the ground wire and run the hot straight to the switch. __________________ Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

11-11-2013, 11:39 PM	#14 (permalink)
SouthArk370Z Premium Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: South Arkansas Posts: 8,435 Drives: 2014 Challenger Rep Power: 324198	Yep. With that switch, you can't have your cake and eat it too. The problem is that you are working with a sinking circuit and most switch/light combos are meant to switch power to a device. That's why Nissan used a four terminal switch/light. __________________ Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

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