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Hazard Switch Wiring Diagram

Here's my 13...I have a M6 The white is the hazards. So looks like on my new switch ill put (from left to right) the 3rd black wire to ground,

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Old 11-10-2013, 06:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Here's my 13...I have a M6



The white is the hazards. So looks like on my new switch ill put (from left to right) the 3rd black wire to ground, the 2nd/green to 12v?? Is power the BCM terminals? Looks like it from the manual since the battery has a wire feeding the BCM. Any idea on which is the LED when you turn the head lights on the button lights up? Will the 4th wire just get deleted since the new switch won't be able to blink or something when you turn them on?

Now what about he synco?
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Old 11-10-2013, 07:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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... the 2nd/green to 12v?? Is power the BCM terminals? Looks like it from the manual since the battery has a wire feeding the BCM. Any idea on which is the LED when you turn the head lights on the button lights up? Will the 4th wire just get deleted since the new switch won't be able to blink or something when you turn them on?
Do NOT hook up power to the center terminals!!! Power for the switch is provided by the BCM. It is a "sinking" input - that terminal on the BCM is hot until you press the button and then it is sunk to ground potential.

I'm not sure about the light. I didn't see anything in the FSM whilst looking up the other info (doesn't mean it's not there, just that I didn't see it). What I would try is activating the switch and taking some readings with a voltage meter. One of the outside terminals should have 12V when the flashers are on (may be pulsing) and the other outside terminal will probably go to ground.
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Do NOT hook up power to the center terminals!!! Power for the switch is provided by the BCM. It is a "sinking" input - that terminal on the BCM is hot until you press the button and then it is sunk to ground potential.

I'm not sure about the light. I didn't see anything in the FSM whilst looking up the other info (doesn't mean it's not there, just that I didn't see it). What I would try is activating the switch and taking some readings with a voltage meter. One of the outside terminals should have 12V when the flashers are on (may be pulsing) and the other outside terminal will probably go to ground.
No I mean the new switch has a led prong, ground prong, and 12v/power prong. I'd only be hooking the existing wires to the new switch.

So to start and be safe...hook the middle 2 wires to the new switch marked ground and 12v. Only thing is my plug isn't labeled with numbers and my wires are different colors. Ill do some testing first I guess.
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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No I mean the new switch has a led prong, ground prong, and 12v/power prong. I'd only be hooking the existing wires to the new switch.

So to start and be safe...hook the middle 2 wires to the new switch marked ground and 12v. Only thing is my plug isn't labeled with numbers and my wires are different colors. Ill do some testing first I guess.
Ah. Sorry about the confusion.

Should be pretty easy to verify the stock wiring. One of the wires (the one from the BCM) should be hot (12V) and the associated ground wire should have continuity to ground. For the light, one of the wires should have 12V (possible pulsing) when the flashers are turned on and the associated ground wire should have continuity to ground.
You can check the grounds with the car off. I think the BCM power to the switch is on all the time (so you can operated the flashers when the car is off).
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