Hazard Switch Wiring Diagram

synolimit

I'm sure your right and it would make sense. Middle 2 (1 and 2) are for the switch on/off of hazards and s-mode and outside 2 (3 and 4) are for when the lights come on so you can see the button at night.

Lol hey I turn a wrench great, just never learned, studied, read up on electronics and stuff. If the manual doesn't say red to green, blue to black etc I'm lost.

Took me a minute to understand all that but I already know what my terminals will be for the new switch so I don't need to do all that (unless I'm totally lost). I'm getting confused because we might be talking about 2 different things.

Here's my switch...

Box says 1 prong for 12v, 1 prong for ground, and 1 prong LED (it's the single copper one)

So if grounds a ground then just hook the orange and black together and run them to the ground prong on the new switch and Blk/yel and gre/wht together on the other switch?

But I feel that's wrong or why else would nissan make a 4 wire switch when 3 would do? I think I'll need to leave 1 ground wire taped up. the inside of the new switch has the LED able to be grounded using the negative side of the LED to the ground prong already in place?

I guess using just one ground would mean unlike OEM where I'll have a button light off during the day and on at night with the headlight, the new switch and LED I'll have to decide if its a 24/7 on light or only on when I turn the headlights on...

Attached Images

image.jpg (30.5 KB, 3 views)

__________________
13 370z-

SouthArk370Z

Ah. For some reason I was under the impression that your wiring was different than the '09 FSM I'm using. Apparently it's just the wire colors.

There does appear to be some miscommunication here. Not unusual on the Intertubes. I think the main problem is my mistaken belief that your wiring was different.

You only need one of the grounds (assuming the other end of both wires is a good ground, which it should be). I'd go ahead and connect both ground wires. If you only connect one, use the largest wire (but I'm guessing they are the same size).

It is "good engineering" to isolate computer circuits from "external" circuits but that's a bit of overkill in a modern car where you have excellent grounding. Plus, this is a digital I/O line, not an analog sensor, and noise is not as critical when you are looking for on/off. Theoretically, separate circuits would be best; in practice, it doesn't make a lot of difference. I'm guessing that the reason Nissan did it their way is: If the ground for 3-terminal switch has high resistance (eg, corroded connection), then it would be possible for the power going to the light to feed into the switch circuit (and vice versa) - as long as you have a good ground, that shouldn't be a problem. Even with a poor ground, it shouldn't be unsafe, to you or the car, in your situation. It might not work right, but it shouldn't do any harm.

As long as you have a good ground, the light should work properly. The "other" end of both wires are grounded and at the same potential, so, electrically, the terminal ends are the same.

__________________
Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

synolimit

I'm hoping so. I mean I know the power of both are in for on/off and out for illum and 1-2-3-4 are all in the same spots on both clips. If a grounds a ground it shouldn't matter although if I did only use 1 I'd have to use the one for function of on/off and not illum.



The wires on the pig tail are all the same size. The wires on the main harness that the pig tail clips into are all smaller but one. The one that's different is even bigger than the wires in the pig tail. That's the one that the orange wire attaches to on the hazards which appears to be a ground and its on the outside which possibly means the ground for the illum of the hazard LED. But that's odd because the ground on the outside for the s-mode illum is a really small wire like all the main harness wires are. The big wire I'm talking about is solid black though. Since all my body panels are off you can see every ground bundle of 10 or so all over the car are all solid black wires of different thicknesses.

Well since I'm just plugging into the main harness in a way, the other ends where ever they go, the engineers of the grounds and such have already been taken care of. I just need to know now which wire goes where on the new aftermarket switch. O I gotcha. Kinda like new homes doing isolated water lines for everything in the house. No pressure drops and if there is a leak it can be turned off easy without draining the whole houses water lines.



Why would I need a ground using the factory wires just plugged into the new switch? Or are you talking about a good ground within the new switch?

__________________
13 370z-

SouthArk370Z

In practice, it doesn't really matter. The bigger the wire, the better, but the current through the light is minimal and the current through the switch is almost zero.

When I say "good ground" I mean "low resistance ground".

Do you have a schematic/diagram showing how the switch is wired internally. One of the switch terminals probably powers the light (internally) and the third leg is the ground for the light, but, w/o a diagram, impossible to be sure from here.

__________________
Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma