Sticky: (Official) 370Z Clutch Pressure (CSC) Failures

vikingpilot · 08-25-2016, 04:32 PM

This pictures are from my 2013 370Z with 7000 miles.
I am watching the reservoir fluid color and drain and refill it
often. Now I have what looks like metal filings in the fluid that's
accumulating on the bottom of the reservoir.

Thoughts anyone?

TreeSemdyZee · 08-25-2016, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vikingpilot

This pictures are from my 2013 370Z with 7000 miles.
I am watching the reservoir fluid color and drain and refill it
often. Now I have what looks like metal filings in the fluid that's
accumulating on the bottom of the reservoir.

Thoughts anyone?

Here's what mine looks like. I sent the pic to Joe at Zspeed and he said it's common with a CSC. Clean it, flush, etc.

Joe@ZSpeed · 08-26-2016, 09:16 AM

Type of debris in the system will vary depending on which clutch material you run as well. Organic will leave the black foamy type stuff, Ceramic will be heavier and lay in the bottom of the reservoir.

CMAK keeps the reservoir spotless

Jsolo · 08-26-2016, 12:09 PM

This is mine after 1 yr and ~7800 miles. Did a clutch line flush last july using valvoline dot 3/4 fluid. There's a thin layer of that dark sludge at the bottom.

Here's a close up pic taken in the day time. Dark honey colored. Flushed it out with prestone dot 4 this time. We'll see what it looks like in 3 months. Nice and clear now. Did a combo of gravity bleed + traditional to finish it off. Went through about 3/4 of a 12 oz bottle.

What's odd is probably 90% of those 7800 miles were mostly highway. I'd expect there to be more debris with greater city driving.

allaboutthez · 08-28-2016, 01:08 PM

My 2009 370z that I just purchased had a CSC failure the other day. I put 2k miles on it the past month and the other day the pedal went soft, stuck to the floor and would only engage 1/4 of the way off the floor. It would go back and forth between being OK and being off on the drive home. I checked the fluid level and it was dark and dirty and well below the minimum as well. Good thing I have a warranty on it but if they're only going to replace it, I think I'll be getting the Z1 delete for it.... no reason to risk it IMO.

TreeSemdyZee · 08-28-2016, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by allaboutthez

My 2009 370z that I just purchased had a CSC failure the other day. I put 2k miles on it the past month and the other day the pedal went soft, stuck to the floor and would only engage 1/4 of the way off the floor. It would go back and forth between being OK and being off on the drive home. I checked the fluid level and it was dark and dirty and well below the minimum as well. Good thing I have a warranty on it but if they're only going to replace it, I think I'll be getting the Z1 delete for it.... no reason to risk it IMO.

That sounds more like what you had happen might possibly be because of the low fluid more than the CSC failing. The low engagement is what makes me think that. I may be wrong though.

allaboutthez · 08-28-2016, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TreeSemdyZee

That sounds more like what you had happen might possibly be because of the low fluid more than the CSC failing. The low engagement is what makes me think that. I may be wrong though.

For the past 2k miles there was no issue and the change was very sudden. And there shouldn't be a fluid loss at all... The fluid being all dark and discolored makes me think that it was contaminated post failure as well. No leaking at the master would mean that the CSC is the culprit. Clutch was fine with zero slipping issues as well when it occurred.

unijabnx · 09-06-2016, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bLKchry370z

so i pulled my car in and checked the condition of my clutch fluid and it was blacker than wesley snipes!!!!! so we took a fluid sample and found it to have a greenish/greyish color to it. the fluid should be clean and clear yellow and if it's dirty or burnt, should be dark. NOT GREYISH!!! this tells me that there is some sort of contamination within my clutch system. I took the fluid sample to the dealer that told me i need a clutch and they pretty much said that "it's out of their hands". lol. what a joke! so while i was in the parking lot, i called a different dealer that i deal with on a professional level, and spoke with the service manager. he is willing to work with me and agreed that my findings would lead toward some sort of hydraulic failure. he's willing to warranty it as long as that is that actual issue. catch 22 is that if he finds it is actually clutch failure that i'd be responsible for the repair. that is beyond fair in my eyes. that's exactly what i was looking for.

here are some pics of the color of my clutch fluid

I've had my 2016 about 3 months.... my fluid is just as dark as that picture...

Something might happen soon.

Dubro · 09-18-2016, 06:17 PM

2010 370 Nismo with 51000 miles. I'm going to install the Z1 Clutch Concentric Slave Cylinder (CSC) Elimination Kit with a new RBM Performance Clutch Master Cylinder. That should end the problem for good.

eastwest2300 · 09-23-2016, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dubro

2010 370 Nismo with 51000 miles. I'm going to install the Z1 Clutch Concentric Slave Cylinder (CSC) Elimination Kit with a new RBM Performance Clutch Master Cylinder. That should end the problem for good.

smart man.

roadie · 09-27-2016, 04:37 PM

Not sure if this has been posted before, but I found this over on the Mustang forum. Maybe BS, maybe not, but for those concerned I figured I'd share:

Removal of Clutch Assist Spring Damaging Slave Cylinder?
I got an email today from Steeda advertising an aftermarket clutch spring with 95lb/in spring stiffness rate compared to OEM 200 lb/in spring stiffness rate. And they state the following: "Most owners fail to realize the prolonged effects of simply taking out your factory OE spring and not replacing it with another spring. By negating your factory clutch assist spring you will notice chatter/NVH from your clutch pedal. Your clutch pedal will never fully return to stock position without any assist spring, and over time your slave cylinder may begin leaking due to constant pressure on its seals from the clutch pedal not returning to the stock position."

littlejuanito · 09-27-2016, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roadie

Not sure if this has been posted before, but I found this over on the Mustang forum. Maybe BS, maybe not, but for those concerned I figured I'd share:

Removal of Clutch Assist Spring Damaging Slave Cylinder?
I got an email today from Steeda advertising an aftermarket clutch spring with 95lb/in spring stiffness rate compared to OEM 200 lb/in spring stiffness rate. And they state the following: "Most owners fail to realize the prolonged effects of simply taking out your factory OE spring and not replacing it with another spring. By negating your factory clutch assist spring you will notice chatter/NVH from your clutch pedal. Your clutch pedal will never fully return to stock position without any assist spring, and over time your slave cylinder may begin leaking due to constant pressure on its seals from the clutch pedal not returning to the stock position."

sounds more like a scare tactic to get you to buy their spring.

Joe@ZSpeed · 09-28-2016, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roadie

Not sure if this has been posted before, but I found this over on the Mustang forum. Maybe BS, maybe not, but for those concerned I figured I'd share:

Removal of Clutch Assist Spring Damaging Slave Cylinder?
I got an email today from Steeda advertising an aftermarket clutch spring with 95lb/in spring stiffness rate compared to OEM 200 lb/in spring stiffness rate. And they state the following: "Most owners fail to realize the prolonged effects of simply taking out your factory OE spring and not replacing it with another spring. By negating your factory clutch assist spring you will notice chatter/NVH from your clutch pedal. Your clutch pedal will never fully return to stock position without any assist spring, and over time your slave cylinder may begin leaking due to constant pressure on its seals from the clutch pedal not returning to the stock position."

Not having the spring could in fact kill the slave and the clutch over time, If the pedal does not get fully returned it could hold pressure in the system as it pressure will never get released fully into the reservoir.
This can hold pressure on the clutch itself possibly causing it to slip and will wear on the CSC bearing as it could have more pressure than normal on it all the time.

If you just get rid of the stock clutch/stock hydraulics with a proper quality set-up there is no need for aftermarket pedal springs to cover up the horrible stock clutch. A good quality clutch and hydraulics the pedal feel is very good and drives 1000 times better.

Jsolo · 09-28-2016, 03:08 PM

Joe, not sure I can agree with that. The main component responsible for pedal return is the pressure plate. After all, that's what the slave is pushing against to disengage the clutch. The pressure plate requires *a lot* of force to depress. I really don't see how a little spring in the pedal itself can aid in pedal return.

I suppose in some applications there's a port in the MC to aid fluid pressure equalization as the clutch fluid expands/contracts. Are you suggesting this may cause pressure to be applied to the slave without any pressure on the pedal itself?

zzzzz370zzzzz · 09-30-2016, 02:24 AM

I am looking to get csc delete kit. I cant decide between the Z1 kit or the Zspeed kit. Any suggestion?

08-26-2016, 09:16 AM	#1593 (permalink)
Joe@ZSpeed The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,304 Drives: Nissan Rep Power: 342999	Type of debris in the system will vary depending on which clutch material you run as well. Organic will leave the black foamy type stuff, Ceramic will be heavier and lay in the bottom of the reservoir. CMAK keeps the reservoir spotless elhombre likes this. __________________ Phone *937-506-7224* E-Mail Sales@Zspeed.com www.ZSPEED.com

08-26-2016, 12:09 PM	#1594 (permalink)
Jsolo Track Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: chicago Posts: 783 Drives: '12 G37 6MT Rep Power: 14	This is mine after 1 yr and ~7800 miles. Did a clutch line flush last july using valvoline dot 3/4 fluid. There's a thin layer of that dark sludge at the bottom. Here's a close up pic taken in the day time. Dark honey colored. Flushed it out with prestone dot 4 this time. We'll see what it looks like in 3 months. Nice and clear now. Did a combo of gravity bleed + traditional to finish it off. Went through about 3/4 of a 12 oz bottle. What's odd is probably 90% of those 7800 miles were mostly highway. I'd expect there to be more debris with greater city driving. __________________ G37S Sedan 6MT, Eibach swaybars, Invidia Exhaust, Weaker Clutch Pedal Spring For sale links

09-18-2016, 06:17 PM	#1599 (permalink)
Dubro Base Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Alpharetta, GA Posts: 62 Drives: 2010 Nismo Rep Power: 15	Mine just went out. 2010 370 Nismo with 51000 miles. I'm going to install the Z1 Clutch Concentric Slave Cylinder (CSC) Elimination Kit with a new RBM Performance Clutch Master Cylinder. That should end the problem for good.

09-28-2016, 03:08 PM	#1604 (permalink)
Jsolo Track Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: chicago Posts: 783 Drives: '12 G37 6MT Rep Power: 14	Joe, not sure I can agree with that. The main component responsible for pedal return is the pressure plate. After all, that's what the slave is pushing against to disengage the clutch. The pressure plate requires a lot of force to depress. I really don't see how a little spring in the pedal itself can aid in pedal return. I suppose in some applications there's a port in the MC to aid fluid pressure equalization as the clutch fluid expands/contracts. Are you suggesting this may cause pressure to be applied to the slave without any pressure on the pedal itself? __________________ G37S Sedan 6MT, Eibach swaybars, Invidia Exhaust, Weaker Clutch Pedal Spring For sale links

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08-28-2016, 01:08 PM	#1595 (permalink)
allaboutthez Base Member Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: NJ Posts: 6 Drives: 2009 370z Rep Power: 8	My 2009 370z that I just purchased had a CSC failure the other day. I put 2k miles on it the past month and the other day the pedal went soft, stuck to the floor and would only engage 1/4 of the way off the floor. It would go back and forth between being OK and being off on the drive home. I checked the fluid level and it was dark and dirty and well below the minimum as well. Good thing I have a warranty on it but if they're only going to replace it, I think I'll be getting the Z1 delete for it.... no reason to risk it IMO.

09-27-2016, 04:37 PM	#1601 (permalink)
roadie Base Member Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Redlands, CA Posts: 42 Drives: Honda Ridgeline Rep Power: 8	Not sure if this has been posted before, but I found this over on the Mustang forum. Maybe BS, maybe not, but for those concerned I figured I'd share: Removal of Clutch Assist Spring Damaging Slave Cylinder? I got an email today from Steeda advertising an aftermarket clutch spring with 95lb/in spring stiffness rate compared to OEM 200 lb/in spring stiffness rate. And they state the following: "Most owners fail to realize the prolonged effects of simply taking out your factory OE spring and not replacing it with another spring. By negating your factory clutch assist spring you will notice chatter/NVH from your clutch pedal. Your clutch pedal will never fully return to stock position without any assist spring, and over time your slave cylinder may begin leaking due to constant pressure on its seals from the clutch pedal not returning to the stock position."

09-30-2016, 02:24 AM	#1605 (permalink)
zzzzz370zzzzz Base Member Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: NYC Posts: 38 Drives: 16 PW Sport Tech 6M Rep Power: 9	I am looking to get csc delete kit. I cant decide between the Z1 kit or the Zspeed kit. Any suggestion?

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