Need Advice... Master/Slave Failing?

[Spaghetti999]

Went for a hard 25 miles, 15 minute drive the other day
Noticed my clutch fluid was in the middle before pulling out...ive seen the fluid drop a year ago, and no problems since...so thought not much of it

25 miles later I arrive at my first stoplight...clutch pedal immediately engages right off the floor and does not come all the way up. I pull over, see clutch fluid is below the minimum level now. uh oh...
I fill it, and drive home just fine. Once home, same problem. Fluid is FULL after 25 mile drive back, BUT the pedal engages immediately and does not come all the way up again....

I checked the next 2 days and nothings changed, fluid full still. Cars been parked 2 weeks now, and pedal is fine now, and fluid is too. Only moved around driveway, have yet to road test....

Fluid has not been changed in my 2 year 26k mile ownership....it's dark.
Tried bleeding the fluid as a potential fix, the rusted bleeder valve broke off

How should I proceed? Is this correct order?
1. Bleed lines to see if problem is fixed
2. Change CMC if step 1 fails
3. Drop the trans..... if all else fails


130k mile car, previous owner changed CSC around 90k-100k mile mark when it left him stranded

[vtec to vvel]

Originally Posted by Spaghetti999

Went for a hard 25 miles, 15 minute drive the other day
Noticed my clutch fluid was in the middle before pulling out...ive seen the fluid drop a year ago, and no problems since...so thought not much of it

25 miles later I arrive at my first stoplight...clutch pedal immediately engages right off the floor and does not come all the way up. I pull over, see clutch fluid is below the minimum level now. uh oh...
I fill it, and drive home just fine. Once home, same problem. Fluid is FULL after 25 mile drive back, BUT the pedal engages immediately and does not come all the way up again....

I checked the next 2 days and nothings changed, fluid full still. Cars been parked 2 weeks now, and pedal is fine now, and fluid is too. Only moved around driveway, have yet to road test....

Fluid has not been changed in my 2 year 26k mile ownership....it's dark.
Tried bleeding the fluid as a potential fix, the rusted bleeder valve broke off

How should I proceed? Is this correct order?
1. Bleed lines to see if problem is fixed
2. Change CMC if step 1 fails
3. Drop the trans..... if all else fails


130k mile car, previous owner changed CSC around 90k-100k mile mark when it left him stranded

If you are losing fluid, this is most likely the CMC.

The pedal dropping and not returning is likely the CSC.

When the previous owner changed the CSC, do you know if it was OEM or the kit from Z1/ZSpeed?

A lot of members will recommend the ZSpeed kit over Z1. Sounds like you need to replace both the CSC/CMC, as any other solutions could be temp./band-aid solutions.

[Spaghetti999]

Originally Posted by vtec to vvel

If you are losing fluid, this is most likely the CMC.

The pedal dropping and not returning is likely the CSC.

When the previous owner changed the CSC, do you know if it was OEM or the kit from Z1/ZSpeed?

A lot of members will recommend the ZSpeed kit over Z1. Sounds like you need to replace both the CSC/CMC, as any other solutions could be temp./band-aid solutions.

One thing I can mention is, the pedal returned maybe 1/3 of the way up, as opposed to being completely stuck to the ground. There was zero need to pull it up with my foot as CSC failures require.

I just test drove it, pedal functions perfectly fine. Drove it for 5 minutes, did notice a small drop in fluid. Should I just jump directly to swapping the CMC as a fluid flush alone likely wont fix anything?

Edit: I am clueless as to what the previous owner replaced the CSC with

[vtec to vvel]

Originally Posted by Spaghetti999

One thing I can mention is, the pedal returned maybe 1/3 of the way up, as opposed to being completely stuck to the ground. There was zero need to pull it up with my foot as CSC failures require.

I just test drove it, pedal functions perfectly fine. Drove it for 5 minutes, did notice a small drop in fluid. Should I just jump directly to swapping the CMC as a fluid flush alone likely wont fix anything?

Edit: I am clueless as to what the previous owner replaced the CSC with

If the pedal drops and doesn't return in any amount, this is not normal operations and likely the CSC going.

The fluid dropping is likely the CMC. Flushing it out may help it temporarily, but it won't make the problem go away.

Also, when the fluid drops, are you seeing fluid on the floor? If not, it's most likely making its way into the tranny bell housing, which in turn can get on the clutch and would need to be replaced also.

Check under the tranny. The aftermarket ZSpeed kit will have the fork mechanism on the outside of the tranny. I'm leaning towards that the CSC replaced was OEM, as the Z1/ZSpeed kit shouldn't go out after 30k miles.

[vtec to vvel]

FWIW, I believe my CMC is on its way out, as I have to top off the clutch fluid after driving for like 5 miles. Once the car gets warmed up, the clutch pedal gets soft, but still comes all the way up. So I'm at a point where I drive her once every 2 weeks for a limited distance just to get the oil running and to prevent flat spots on tires and then hook her up to a Battery Tender once a month.

I'll be replacing the CMC/CSC/Clutch as soon as I find time and an extra person to help.

[filip00]

You can't get a flat spot on a tyre unless it's completely out of air. Brand new cars have their tyres pumped up to 3 BAR (~45 PSI) and they can't get a flat spot. It's a myth that you could get a flat spot if you let your car sit for a while.

[vtec to vvel]

Originally Posted by filip00

You can't get a flat spot on a tyre unless it's completely out of air. Brand new cars have their tyres pumped up to 3 BAR (~45 PSI) and they can't get a flat spot. It's a myth that you could get a flat spot if you let your car sit for a while.

I much rather err on the side of caution and plus it gives me an excuse to drive her once every 2 weeks.

BTW, still not sure how you don't have any flat spots on your seats

[Rusty]

Originally Posted by filip00

You can't get a flat spot on a tyre unless it's completely out of air. Brand new cars have their tyres pumped up to 3 BAR (~45 PSI) and they can't get a flat spot. It's a myth that you could get a flat spot if you let your car sit for a while.

Ewww wrong. Tires can and do get flat spots after sitting for a period of time. The tires on my Jeep Gladiator flat spot every night. It takes about 10 miles of running above 45 mph to get them heated up and round again. The tires are 37/12.5-17's. Run 30 psi in the front and 25 psi in the rear. The only time I've seen 45 psi in tires are on truck tires. I run 35 psi on my Z. Tire construction plays a lot in if a tire flat spots or not too. I've had other brands of tires flat spot too.

[filip00]

Originally Posted by vtec to vvel

I much rather err on the side of caution and plus it gives me an excuse to drive her once every 2 weeks.

BTW, still not sure how you don't have any flat spots on your seats

WELL WELL WELL......I remembered this discussion today and snapped a few CLOSE UP pics to show you that my seats however incredibly well maintained, actually unfortunately aren't perfect and do show some signs of creasing. Look!






Fortunately, all of the creases are soft and not yet anywhere near the point of breaking open, but yeah, I'm careful with it. A lot of leather lotion and prayers to the Leather God

[filip00]

Originally Posted by Rusty

Ewww wrong. Tires can and do get flat spots after sitting for a period of time. The tires on my Jeep Gladiator flat spot every night. It takes about 10 miles of running above 45 mph to get them heated up and round again. The tires are 37/12.5-17's. Run 30 psi in the front and 25 psi in the rear. The only time I've seen 45 psi in tires are on truck tires. I run 35 psi on my Z. Tire construction plays a lot in if a tire flat spots or not too. I've had other brands of tires flat spot too.

I am really curious as to what is actually causing this, if that is really true. I'll tell you why I'm very suspicious about it.

First off, new cars have a higher tyre pressure and they sit around for quite a while before being delivered, and those tyres don't have flat spots.
Secondly, I cycle a lot. New bicycle tyres often come folded, like, completely folded. You unfold them and mount them to the rim, pump them up and presto - they're completely round and no flat spots, although they were completely folded.
I don't think it's that easy to create a flat spot, let alone if you raise the tyre pressure.

[vtec to vvel]

Originally Posted by filip00

WELL WELL WELL......I remembered this discussion today and snapped a few CLOSE UP pics to show you that my seats however incredibly well maintained, actually unfortunately aren't perfect and do show some signs of creasing. Look!






Fortunately, all of the creases are soft and not yet anywhere near the point of breaking open, but yeah, I'm careful with it. A lot of leather lotion and prayers to the Leather God

Dude, your seats are PERFECT. No clothes dye transfer, no wrinkles, no creases, no cracks, no flat spots, no @$$ prints. For a 2009, your seats (and car) are MINT!

[vtec to vvel]

Originally Posted by filip00

I am really curious as to what is actually causing this, if that is really true. I'll tell you why I'm very suspicious about it.

First off, new cars have a higher tyre pressure and they sit around for quite a while before being delivered, and those tyres don't have flat spots.
Secondly, I cycle a lot. New bicycle tyres often come folded, like, completely folded. You unfold them and mount them to the rim, pump them up and presto - they're completely round and no flat spots, although they were completely folded.
I don't think it's that easy to create a flat spot, let alone if you raise the tyre pressure.

I've read about many members here that live in the colder climates where they put their cars on jack stands during winter storage, amongst other preparations, to avoid flat spots on tires.