Installing new spark plugs socket getting stuck

Wabbyy

I cant find a 14mm 3/8 drive thin walled anywhere. Even went to all my tool stores and couldnt find anything. I see alot of 12 pointers or do I have a chance to strip the plug accidently.

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Bryzed

Just get another spark plug socket and pull out the rubber insert that grips the plug. Use the original socket (with the spark plug lightly pushed into it ) to put the spark plug in the head a couple of threads deep, then you should be able to remove the socket easily as it was only lightly pushed onto the spark plug. Now switch over to the socket with the rubber insert removed and tighten the spark plug up. Been using this method for years

Wabbyy

[QUOTE=Bryzed;3974005]Just get another spark plug socket and pull out the rubber insert that grips the plug. Use the original socket (with the spark plug lightly pushed into it ) to put the spark plug in the head a couple of threads deep, then you should be able to remove the socket easily as it was only lightly pushed onto the spark plug. Now switch over to the socket with the rubber insert removed and tighten the spark plug up. Been using this method for years[/QUOTE

I already fixed it. I had found a stronger magnetized extension and it did the trick but I do understand your method. Thanks alot man. Also should I be putting any type of anti-seize or lube on the OEM Denso plugs before installing??

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Rusty

[QUOTE=Wabbyy;3974027]Apply a small amount of nickle anti-seize to the plug threads. Do not get any on the electrodes'.

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Bryzed

[QUOTE=Wabbyy;3974027]
Apparently no anti seize lube should be used, I personally never use anti seize lube but others do

Rusty

[QUOTE=Bryzed;3974041]You never had a plug stuck in an aluminum head.

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SouthArk370Z

Nothing wrong with using anti-seize on spark plugs IF you apply it correctly. Use very sparingly and avoid the first thread to prevent getting any into the combustion chamber or fouling the plug.

Remember to use a little less torque when tightening (torque specs are usually specified for dry threads). More info on the Web.

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Bryzed

[QUOTE=Rusty;3974043]Not in 20 years no but I'm aware people have had that issue.

ZoomZ

I don't know if you read my post earlier, but here it is again.

You can grind down your socket wall with a bench grinder. Doesn't take long or in need of high skills.


SPLINED sockets work as well. Instead of 6 points or 12 point contact faces, they will have splines extending the length of socket. Will work on 6 or 12 point bolt. Your local Auto parts should have those.

It's low torque, so you shouldn't strip even with 12 point.

Antiseize is a must. Don't need a lot.

Jhill

[QUOTE=Rusty;3974043]I’ll add to this to always remove the plugs with the engine hot, you’ll have much less issue with stuck plugs.

Corsairprime

This is the 14mm socket you want for doing spark plugs. O'Reilly's has them. They are magnetic instead of having the old rubber boot thing inside. A god send for install and removal of deep in the Cylinder head plugs. I use this one with a 3/8 12" extension. No issues at all with removal or installation.

See the link.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...g+socket&pos=3

Only $7.99. I think they will ship them.

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seymore4

Tape the socket onto the extension when you put the plugs in. Get done, take the tape back off.