New clutch time

SPDKING

I went went with the JWT Clutch and Iron flywheel combo, the JWT clutch can handle up to 600 horsepower and a lot of people said they are great. Plus for the price it's really great. https://conceptzperformance.com/jim-...ktb_p_2423.php

And the Heavy Duty CSC by Z Speed instead of the CMAK because people have come across problems with the CMAK https://conceptzperformance.com/z-sp...006_p_4593.php

Keep in mind, if you go from the stock dual mass flywheel to ANYTHING ELSE, the transmission chatter will increase regardless if they are advertised as "quiet". Just a warning because it looks like the clutch kit your looking at, that flywheel is 19lbs vs the stock 32lbs which will increase the noise if you care.

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Stillen front and rear sway bars/Continental Extreme Tires/Annex Suspension Coilovers/Z1 Oil Cooler/Borla Catback Exhaust/K&N Drop in filters/SPL

Jayhovah

I went with the Z1 Clutch/Flywheel kit along with a ZSpeed HD-CSC. Have been very happy with the setup and haven't had any issues even with the TT torque increase.

I think if I did it all over again, I would have skipped the flywheel upgrade to keep the chatter down as my car doesn't see any track time.

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2013 Gun Metallic Sport - Gamma V3 Twin Turbogized
DIY Gamma V3 TT Install * Jayhovah's Gamma V3 TT Install Pic'Z and Vid'Z * DIY: Washer Reservoir for the Boosted

OptionZero

while you're doing the clutch and slave fix, get a lightweight flywheel and the RJM clutch pedal

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OptionZero Build Thread

SPDKING

I don't think he wants the extra noise

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Stillen front and rear sway bars/Continental Extreme Tires/Annex Suspension Coilovers/Z1 Oil Cooler/Borla Catback Exhaust/K&N Drop in filters/SPL

-ZS-Carpenter

It can sound like bolts in a dryer for all I care. Both kits I listed have sub 20lb flywheels.

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SPDKING

I think they more sound like two nuts rattling in a tin can..Two very large nuts....that's why our cars push out so much power haha. If your driving style requires a lightweight flywheel then it should be fine. Just expect off the line performance to suffer, cruising ability to suffer and you'll have to be timing your shifts faster and fuel economy going down aka you're going to have to adjust your driving style. In any event, if you don't care about that, why not just go balls deep and get the 15lb flywheel so you get the most out of this upgrade? It's a steeper learning curve than the 20lb but you'll get more bang for buck.
Jim Wolf Technology website

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Stillen front and rear sway bars/Continental Extreme Tires/Annex Suspension Coilovers/Z1 Oil Cooler/Borla Catback Exhaust/K&N Drop in filters/SPL

-ZS-Carpenter

I don't want an aluminum flywheel and the iron JWT flywheel is 26lbs.

What problems are they having? I've seen nothing but praise with the V2.


Anyone running Z1s 14lb flywheel? I was told to go as light as possible and I can piece meal the parts with a Z1 clutch and Zspeed hydraulics for about $1350.

It's down to that or the Zspeed kit for $1450 with a 18lb flywheel.

I picked up a metric set off amazon. Nothing super fancy but should get the job done just fine.


Going to start draining fluids and pulling parts off it today.

JARblue

I'm going with Joe's steel flywheel (thought it was 17 lbs, not 18 but w/e). He recommended it to me even when I asked for the lightest one possible. Not buying anything Z1 anymore, so their flywheel is out.

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RN SHARK

I have the Z1 road race clutch/flywheel package, Z1 CSCEK, Nismo pilot bearing, RJM pedal and CMC, Z1 poly trans bushings, Coolerworx shifter. Easy to drive on and off the track, no knock sensors set off. I think it is a great set up.

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'09 6sp/Z1/PowerTrix/SPL/Swift/SRP/Whiteline/F.I.LTH&CBE/UpRev by Seb/CJM/Stillen/Ings+1/RJM/TrackSpec/Sparco/Motul/Wavetrac/Coolerworx/Verus/CraftSquare
'14 SRT Grand Cherokee; '08 TL Type-S

-ZS-Carpenter

After staring at the rjm web site an hour and seeing only 6 left I pulled the trigger. If i thought about it any longer they would be out of stock. It takes a couple weeks to build and ship anyway so might as well get that ball rolling.

JARblue

The CMAK is self-adjusting. The Z1 CSCEK has to be adjusted.

I've had the Z1 kit for several years now. It is an annoyance (though easy) to adjust and it's not made with quality parts. I've had to replace the cylinder about every 12-15K miles (over 50K miles on the kit). I thought I might be doing something wrong, but I still experienced the same failure rate even after having Austin Z Clinic replace it for me.

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Zyonara91

I have the Z1 as well. How do you even go about adjusting it? I have no idea. . .

Jayhovah

My HD-CSC has been problem free... I feel similarly to SPDKING here. Moving to an HD-CSC solves the problem without making a larger design change from what the Nissan engineers intended.

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2013 Gun Metallic Sport - Gamma V3 Twin Turbogized
DIY Gamma V3 TT Install * Jayhovah's Gamma V3 TT Install Pic'Z and Vid'Z * DIY: Washer Reservoir for the Boosted

JARblue

If you'll remember the 350Z had some similar CSC issues with the internal OEM one and Nissan designed an external slave for later year models. The Z1 kit was based off that design. So it's not like Nissan hasn't done a major design change like this before...

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Jayhovah

Didn't know that, and I had a 350! Surprised they made a similar mistake on the 370.

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2013 Gun Metallic Sport - Gamma V3 Twin Turbogized
DIY Gamma V3 TT Install * Jayhovah's Gamma V3 TT Install Pic'Z and Vid'Z * DIY: Washer Reservoir for the Boosted