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Track Oil Temp Issues, looking for options.

So I was at a Track even over the weekend and the temps were in the low 60F and mostly cloudy. I didn't have a lot of traffic to pleanty

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Old 04-29-2019, 06:01 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Unhappy Track Oil Temp Issues, looking for options.

So I was at a Track even over the weekend and the temps were in the low 60F and mostly cloudy. I didn't have a lot of traffic to pleanty of airflow in, wide open Stillen front bumper & 34 row Setrab oil cooler. Just to give you and idea of how hard I am pushing the car I get around 5.6 mpg so I am on full throttle as much as possible. The oil temps are getting around 260-265F and I feel the car getting a bit sluggish as the laps pile on.

What are my options? Another cooler, fan, pump to increase flow, something else, or a combination of the above?



BTW Car is NA
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Old 04-29-2019, 07:20 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I bow to your MPG.

All that heat needs a way out of the bay. Installing some vents in your hood seems like the most economical option.

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Old 04-29-2019, 07:22 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Also keep on mind that with an oil cooler hooked up, your temp reading is almost exactly 20 degrees cooler than it truly is, as the cooler oil returns to the pan basically on top of the temp sensor. So you're running in the 280s.

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Old 05-05-2019, 07:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BettyZ View Post
Also keep on mind that with an oil cooler hooked up, your temp reading is almost exactly 20 degrees cooler than it truly is, as the cooler oil returns to the pan basically on top of the temp sensor. So you're running in the 280s.

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Really now? See that I did not know. So If I see 90c I'm realistically running at 110c? Hmm.
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Old 05-05-2019, 07:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I have a 48 row tru cool and #12 lines with very good results.
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Old 05-05-2019, 08:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Really now? See that I did not know. So If I see 90c I'm realistically running at 110c? Hmm.
The difference is 20 degrees Fahrenheit. No idea what that is in Celsius. But probably less than 20.

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Old 05-05-2019, 08:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Very interested, I faced this issue after like two hot laps with moderate weather 75-85F, both oil and coolant was higher than what usually is. I have hood vents and their effect is minimum, my finding was they allow the engine to cool down way faster during cool down lap.

What I am thinking about doing is to go to higher viscosity oil, using 0w40 currently, will go to 0w50. Also, I am planning to make dual oil cooler by adding another core to my current one, and maybe adding high capacity oil pan to get more oil in the engine.
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Old 05-05-2019, 08:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BettyZ View Post
Also keep on mind that with an oil cooler hooked up, your temp reading is almost exactly 20 degrees cooler than it truly is, as the cooler oil returns to the pan basically on top of the temp sensor. So you're running in the 280s.

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Don't believe so. Oil flow. Pump, cooler, filter, block passages, then back into the pan. The sensor is reading the oil coming back from the cooler.

The ECU starts to pull timing around 240F until 280F limp mode. That's why the car feels sluggish.

Couple of things can be done. Vented hood, oil pan spacer, CJM oil pan. The last 2 will increase oil capacity. Install an oil pressure gauge to track your oil pressure. The stock pump will read over 100 psi at high rpm's. Also a water temp gauge. TrackSpec hood vents lower my oil temps and water temps. I have the Z1 34 row oil cooler and a rare AM Perf. oil pan. Only about 20 of them made.
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Old 05-05-2019, 09:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AlWakRa View Post
Very interested, I faced this issue after like two hot laps with moderate weather 75-85F, both oil and coolant was higher than what usually is. I have hood vents and their effect is minimum, my finding was they allow the engine to cool down way faster during cool down lap.

What I am thinking about doing is to go to higher viscosity oil, using 0w40 currently, will go to 0w50. Also, I am planning to make dual oil cooler by adding another core to my current one, and maybe adding high capacity oil pan to get more oil in the engine.
Make sure that your not bleeding air off inside the bumper. You should have guides inside the bumper to direct air flow to the radiator. If you don't, the air will take the least line of resistance and bleed around the radiator and not go through it. The stock Nismo bumper have guides.
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Old 05-05-2019, 09:50 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Don't believe so. Oil flow. Pump, cooler, filter, block passages, then back into the pan. The sensor is reading the oil coming back from the cooler.



The ECU starts to pull timing around 240F until 280F limp mode. That's why the car feels sluggish.



Couple of things can be done. Vented hood, oil pan spacer, CJM oil pan. The last 2 will increase oil capacity. Install an oil pressure gauge to track your oil pressure. The stock pump will read over 100 psi at high rpm's. Also a water temp gauge. TrackSpec hood vents lower my oil temps and water temps. I have the Z1 34 row oil cooler and a rare AM Perf. oil pan. Only about 20 of them made.
Exactly. Assuming our concern is temp in the block, that temp is usually 20-22 degrees higher than the pan temp due to oil from the cooler coming directly to the sensor.

Highway driving in subfreezing temps with no block off plate on the cooler, my oil temp readout stays a consistent 160. Valve on the thermostatic plate fully opens at 180.

If our concern is ECU pulling timing due to high oil temps, then yes, whatever the sensor says is what the programming responds to. Just remember that oil temps in the block are 20 degrees higher than the sensor readout.

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Old 05-05-2019, 09:58 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AlWakRa View Post
Very interested, I faced this issue after like two hot laps with moderate weather 75-85F, both oil and coolant was higher than what usually is. I have hood vents and their effect is minimum, my finding was they allow the engine to cool down way faster during cool down lap.



What I am thinking about doing is to go to higher viscosity oil, using 0w40 currently, will go to 0w50. Also, I am planning to make dual oil cooler by adding another core to my current one, and maybe adding high capacity oil pan to get more oil in the engine.
I know at least one forum member cut out their front fascia from hood to crash bar and replaced it with mesh.

ZSpeed aluminum splash guard has an opening designed to allow airflow over the bottom of the oil pan.

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Old 05-05-2019, 10:01 PM   #12 (permalink)
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what hood do you have? not all are functionally vented
i think the fujimura one is most proven

also, maybe some fender vents would get get a bit more air out of the engine bay
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Old 05-05-2019, 10:34 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Rusty, I have oem sport pre-facelift, zspeed undertray, and Trackspec hood vents.

BettyZ, I thought about taking the plastic in the facia and replace it with a mesh, so more air will be allowed through the engine bay, but didn't have the time to try it.
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Old 05-05-2019, 10:59 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BettyZ View Post
Exactly. Assuming our concern is temp in the block, that temp is usually 20-22 degrees higher than the pan temp due to oil from the cooler coming directly to the sensor.

Highway driving in subfreezing temps with no block off plate on the cooler, my oil temp readout stays a consistent 160. Valve on the thermostatic plate fully opens at 180.

If our concern is ECU pulling timing due to high oil temps, then yes, whatever the sensor says is what the programming responds to. Just remember that oil temps in the block are 20 degrees higher than the sensor readout.

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To really know what is going on. You have to have 2 temp sensors. One coming out of the pump before the cooler. One after the cooler to see what the delta is.
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Old 05-05-2019, 11:00 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AlWakRa View Post
Rusty, I have oem sport pre-facelift, zspeed undertray, and Trackspec hood vents.

BettyZ, I thought about taking the plastic in the facia and replace it with a mesh, so more air will be allowed through the engine bay, but didn't have the time to try it.
You have all 3 vents?
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