Track Oil Temp Issues, looking for options.

Rusty · 05-05-2019, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OptionZero

what hood do you have? not all are functionally vented
i think the fujimura one is most proven

also, maybe some fender vents would get get a bit more air out of the engine bay

Fender vents don't vent the engine bay. They don't vent at all unless you cut holes in the inner fender liner. Then it vents the high pressure from the wheel well.

BettyZ · 05-05-2019, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Fender vents don't vent the engine bay. They don't vent at all unless you cut holes in the inner fender liner. Then it vents the high pressure from the wheel well.

Those are some sexy fender vents - looks like an anatomy mannequin.

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AlWakRa · 05-05-2019, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

You have all 3 vents?

Yes, all three, installed by the template provided.

when I installed them, I didn't notice any change in my temps, only change was when I go back to the pit lane the car is already cooled down, so no need to open the hood after finishing the session.

Rusty · 05-06-2019, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlWakRa

Yes, all three, installed by the template provided.

when I installed them, I didn't notice any change in my temps, only change was when I go back to the pit lane the car is already cooled down, so no need to open the hood after finishing the session.

The biggest change was on my water temp. 80 mph plus for 4 hrs straight on a 95F day last year. My water temp never got above 215F, oil temp never above 195F. My diff temp climbed to 255F. Had to turn the diff cooler on. That took the temp back down to 200F.

ltullos · 05-06-2019, 12:29 AM

Something doesn't seem right. I've run in Texas summer much hotter than this also with 34 row cooler and barely get to 240. Any chance you have something blocking airflow to the cooler? Also, do you do any datalogging? I'd recommend you get Harry's Lap Timer on an Android phone or tablet with Bluetooth interface. There's an extended PID set that will let you pull oil temp. Basically, you want to check both water and oil temps and see how quickly they rise and saturate. No need to hack up your hood until you can understand what's really happening. Hit me you have questions about the datalogging.
-Larry

BGTV8 · 05-06-2019, 02:42 AM

OP has Stillen bumper. IMHO air is leaking past the radiator/oil cooler somehow.

The air has to go thru the oil cooler and radiator so look for even the smallest openings that allow high pressure air past the radiator/oil cooler.

Also, a sump extender or CJM baffled sump will add another litre+ which will help

2011 Nismo#91 · 05-06-2019, 05:42 AM

I am thinking this might be an issue with the thermostat in the sandwich plate. Ordered a different brand (old=mocal, new=setrab) and will see what happens. List of relevant mods:
1. Zspeed undertray
2. Setrab 34 row oil cooler
3. CJM Baffeled oil pan.
4. Stillen front bumper.

I keep forgetting to add the PID for the oil temp to my Torque app, I use the AIM SoloDL for logging. Coolant temp (water&waterwetter) peak was 223F avg was 219F for my fastest lap. Nothing is blocking the cooler.

Aside, should I add an oil pressure sensor? I've been pushing this motor for awhile and am a bit worried about the oil galley gasket failing, seems to be an issue for 09-12 motors.

Hotrodz · 05-06-2019, 12:35 PM

The tracks I run in AZ and CA during the spring and summer will see temps over a 100*. Being boosted only add heat so I have taken some extreme measures. I have a Greddy extended oil pan, upgraded the oil pump gears, added a 72 row oil cooler, switched from a Fugimura hood back to OEM with Trackspec hood vents, Zspeed under tray, and cut vents into the front bumper. My oil temps are dependent on the track configuration. If the track is less than 1.5 miles long it is very hard to have enough straight away to allow the oil temps to fall before rising again and I will hit temps about 260 to 265. Traffic on a small track is killer! My water temps stay in the normal range other than extended time behind cars on short tracks. I still don't see high water temps. The one of the best things about the hood vents is if you slow or pull in the pits the temps drop quickly. I have to remember to check my temps before I leave the track because they start falling on the cool down lap. Here is how she looked before my engine went boom. I will be adding side vents like Rusty and opening a large whole in the fender well.

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dts3 · 05-06-2019, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91

I am thinking this might be an issue with the thermostat in the sandwich plate. Ordered a different brand (old=mocal, new=setrab) and will see what happens. List of relevant mods:
1. Zspeed undertray
2. Setrab 34 row oil cooler
3. CJM Baffeled oil pan.
4. Stillen front bumper.

I keep forgetting to add the PID for the oil temp to my Torque app, I use the AIM SoloDL for logging. Coolant temp (water&waterwetter) peak was 223F avg was 219F for my fastest lap. Nothing is blocking the cooler.

Aside, should I add an oil pressure sensor? I've been pushing this motor for awhile and am a bit worried about the oil galley gasket failing, seems to be an issue for 09-12 motors.

I added a Defi oil pressure sensor. I haven't taken it to the track yet, but it's nice to see the oil pressure vs. temperature relationship. I added it for the peace of mind after installing the oil cooler myself (It was really the first non-trivial mod I'd done myself, and I was worried about messing something up)

BettyZ · 05-06-2019, 01:00 PM

Oil pressure sensor is a must-have for peace of mind. Be sure to get one that can read up to 150psi.

Oil galley gaskets are something you can DIY, if you have the space and a minimum of mechanical aptitude. I did it myself basically using nothing but this forum and the FSM. Nice thing ab doing that is that, while you're in there, you might as well upgrade the oil pump, new radiator, baffled oil pan, maybe some new camshafts...

At the very least you can strip out unneeded **** from the bay and replace the factory looms with braided looms to allow more airflow. Did that myself if you want tips.

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BettyZ · 05-06-2019, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

The tracks I run in AZ and CA during the spring and summer will see temps over a 100*. Being boosted only add heat so I have taken some extreme measures. I have a Greddy extended oil pan, upgraded the oil pump gears, added a 72 row oil cooler, switched from a Fugimura hood back to OEM with Trackspec hood vents, Zspeed under tray, and cut vents into the front bumper. My oil temps are dependent on the track configuration. If the track is less than 1.5 miles long it is very hard to have enough straight away to allow the oil temps to fall before rising again and I will hit temps about 260 to 265. Traffic on a small track is killer! My water temps stay in the normal range other than extended time behind cars on short tracks. I still don't see high water temps. The one of the best things about the hood vents is if you slow or pull in the pits the temps drop quickly. I have to remember to check my temps before I leave the track because they start falling on the cool down lap. Here is how she looked before my engine went boom. I will be adding side vents like Rusty and opening a large whole in the fender well.

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Hotrodz have you considered adding heat sinks to the bottom of your oil pan or widening the slot in the ZSpeed undertray?

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Hotrodz · 05-06-2019, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BettyZ

Hotrodz have you considered adding heat sinks to the bottom of your oil pan or widening the slot in the ZSpeed undertray?

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My new splitter was fabricated so I don't need the Zspeed under tray and allows for more air flow and it can easily be modified if I need to make additional adjustments.

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BettyZ · 05-06-2019, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

My new splitter was fabricated so I don't need the Zspeed under tray and allows for more air flow and it can easily be modified if I need to make additional adjustments.

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I suppose removing the undertray completely does provide a tad more airflow than hacking away at the slot

Hotrodz · 05-06-2019, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BettyZ

I suppose removing the undertray completely does provide a tad more airflow than hacking away at the slot

Yes, but you have to decide it the turbulence at high speed is a detriment and unsafe. I don't know if you are old enough to remember when State Highway Patrol departments were using the old 5.0 Mustangs? They would remove the front air dam/splitter and under tray to be able to cross medians between the highway. The result was at about 105 mph the car would get airborne and could flip over. There were several deaths attributed to the modification.

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BettyZ · 05-06-2019, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

Yes, but you have to decide it the turbulence at high speed is a detriment and unsafe. I don't know if you are old enough to remember when State Highway Patrol departments were using the old 5.0 Mustangs? They would remove the front air dam/splitter and under tray to be able to cross medians between the highway. The result was at about 105 mph the car would get airborne and could flip over. There were several deaths attributed to the modification.

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I've only been around since the Crown Vic era. Makes sense though. Your splitter ameliorates this issue? Or are you auditioning for "The Miracle of Flight" lol

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05-06-2019, 12:29 AM	#20 (permalink)
ltullos Enthusiast Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: DFW Posts: 312 Drives: 2016 Nismo Tech MT Rep Power: 15	Something doesn't seem right. I've run in Texas summer much hotter than this also with 34 row cooler and barely get to 240. Any chance you have something blocking airflow to the cooler? Also, do you do any datalogging? I'd recommend you get Harry's Lap Timer on an Android phone or tablet with Bluetooth interface. There's an extended PID set that will let you pull oil temp. Basically, you want to check both water and oil temps and see how quickly they rise and saturate. No need to hack up your hood until you can understand what's really happening. Hit me you have questions about the datalogging. -Larry 2011 Nismo#91 likes this.

05-06-2019, 05:42 AM	#22 (permalink)
2011 Nismo#91 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: NJ Posts: 2,413 Drives: slowly Rep Power: 40570	I am thinking this might be an issue with the thermostat in the sandwich plate. Ordered a different brand (old=mocal, new=setrab) and will see what happens. List of relevant mods: 1. Zspeed undertray 2. Setrab 34 row oil cooler 3. CJM Baffeled oil pan. 4. Stillen front bumper. I keep forgetting to add the PID for the oil temp to my Torque app, I use the AIM SoloDL for logging. Coolant temp (water&waterwetter) peak was 223F avg was 219F for my fastest lap. Nothing is blocking the cooler. Aside, should I add an oil pressure sensor? I've been pushing this motor for awhile and am a bit worried about the oil galley gasket failing, seems to be an issue for 09-12 motors. Last edited by 2011 Nismo#91; 05-06-2019 at 07:30 AM.

05-06-2019, 12:35 PM	#23 (permalink)
Hotrodz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: NW, AZ Posts: 9,330 Drives: 10 Nissan 370z Nismo Rep Power: 2684385	The tracks I run in AZ and CA during the spring and summer will see temps over a 100. Being boosted only add heat so I have taken some extreme measures. I have a Greddy extended oil pan, upgraded the oil pump gears, added a 72 row oil cooler, switched from a Fugimura hood back to OEM with Trackspec hood vents, Zspeed under tray, and cut vents into the front bumper. My oil temps are dependent on the track configuration. If the track is less than 1.5 miles long it is very hard to have enough straight away to allow the oil temps to fall before rising again and I will hit temps about 260 to 265. Traffic on a small track is killer! My water temps stay in the normal range other than extended time behind cars on short tracks. I still don't see high water temps. The one of the best things about the hood vents is if you slow or pull in the pits the temps drop quickly. I have to remember to check my temps before I leave the track because they start falling on the cool down lap. Here is how she looked before my engine went boom. I will be adding side vents like Rusty and opening a large whole in the fender well. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Rusty, axmea?, old guy and 5 others like this. __________________ Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:\|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX*\|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler\|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel\|3GsCustoms\|Z1\|Wavetrac\|Hotchkis\|Whiteline \|Blitz\|Fortune Auto 500\|Fujimura\|SPL\|H&R\|TK\|TWM\|RPM Rollbar\|Sparco\|Next Level Performance\|TrackSpec\|AeroFlow Dynamics\|Pioneer\|

05-06-2019, 01:00 PM	#25 (permalink)
BettyZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: USA Age: 38 Posts: 5,260 Drives: A Garage Queen Rep Power: 2684371	Oil pressure sensor is a must-have for peace of mind. Be sure to get one that can read up to 150psi. Oil galley gaskets are something you can DIY, if you have the space and a minimum of mechanical aptitude. I did it myself basically using nothing but this forum and the FSM. Nice thing ab doing that is that, while you're in there, you might as well upgrade the oil pump, new radiator, baffled oil pan, maybe some new camshafts... At the very least you can strip out unneeded **** from the bay and replace the factory looms with braided looms to allow more airflow. Did that myself if you want tips. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk 2011 Nismo#91 likes this. __________________ '14 MB Nismo \| Boost Lab 6870 1.32 AR 553 HP / 471 ft.-lbs. Betty Mods

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05-06-2019, 02:42 AM	#21 (permalink)
BGTV8 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: 03350 Australia Posts: 1,516 Drives: 09 Nissan 370Z M6 Rep Power: 39974	OP has Stillen bumper. IMHO air is leaking past the radiator/oil cooler somehow. The air has to go thru the oil cooler and radiator so look for even the smallest openings that allow high pressure air past the radiator/oil cooler. Also, a sump extender or CJM baffled sump will add another litre+ which will help