Clutch & Flywheel advice please

Joe@ZSpeed · 09-22-2017, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by socce

Joe, I bought a second hand z1 clutch and light flywheel kit that is in good shape. Is the 'Quiet Disk' an option that I could use to replace the old plate in the z1 kit ?

I'm not sure what they use as far as disk thickness so I cannot tell you 100%
Most of our kits are engineered to work with a performance marcel cushioned disk so they engage smoothly but still retain an accurate bite point.
Some pressure plates will not release this type of clutch completely unless they are designed to work with it.

socce · 09-18-2017, 04:48 PM

I've got the z1 clutch / light flywheel waiting to be put in myself. Anyone have a clip of this flywheel chatter ?

Need to replace the disks also - anyone can explain the difference to expect between the full face disk and the unsprung full face disk ?

SS_Firehawk · 09-18-2017, 06:11 PM

My car has 23k miles and the clutch doesn't grab on full upshifts. I'm picking up the Specialty Z clutch & flywheel soon. It comes with a Tilton slave. I recommend you replace the master cylinder as well with an RJM master cylinder. The clutch engagement is low, heavier than stock, but easier to read. It doesn't change pressure or get soft when hot either.

bcfromfl · 04-14-2018, 05:12 PM

I tried calling ZSpeed today (Saturday) but didn't get any answer -- I'll try again next week.

I've decided to go with the Stage 3 South Bend clutch kit with CMAK and quiet disk, but don't have a clue which flywheel to select. I'll never track the car...it's basically just a fun toy to drive when the weather's nice. I'll need the Stage 3 to hold Topz's A2A kit. I don't like how the OEM flywheel "overshoots" revs when shifting in higher RPMs, but I appreciate how it contributes to a civilized drivetrain.

Where I drive are some stoplights/stop signs, and I really don't want to negatively affect the driveability of the car. I've read how touchy light flywheels can be, but I'm frustrated that the only choice at ZSpeed in the mid-20lb range is a nodular iron flywheel. On other cars, nodular iron doesn't get very good reviews.

I'd appreciate thoughts on the nodular iron flywheel vs. the 19lb DXD billet one, or other suggestions. Once I'm Ecutek-tuned with the supercharger, might the factory flywheel be an acceptable option?

Joe@ZSpeed · 04-16-2018, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bcfromfl

I tried calling ZSpeed today (Saturday) but didn't get any answer -- I'll try again next week.

I've decided to go with the Stage 3 South Bend clutch kit with CMAK and quiet disk, but don't have a clue which flywheel to select. I'll never track the car...it's basically just a fun toy to drive when the weather's nice. I'll need the Stage 3 to hold Topz's A2A kit. I don't like how the OEM flywheel "overshoots" revs when shifting in higher RPMs, but I appreciate how it contributes to a civilized drivetrain.

Where I drive are some stoplights/stop signs, and I really don't want to negatively affect the driveability of the car. I've read how touchy light flywheels can be, but I'm frustrated that the only choice at ZSpeed in the mid-20lb range is a nodular iron flywheel. On other cars, nodular iron doesn't get very good reviews.

I'd appreciate thoughts on the nodular iron flywheel vs. the 19lb DXD billet one, or other suggestions. Once I'm Ecutek-tuned with the supercharger, might the factory flywheel be an acceptable option?

Light flywheels are not really the main reason how the car takes off from a stop. It really has more to do with the clutch, Some clutches are more aggressive than others, I can make a 10lb flywheel drive just as well as a 30lb flywheel, Depends on the clutch set-up, car gearing etc.

The stage 3 daily will be about in the middle of super smooth and overly aggressive, It does not drive bad at all even with our 17lb flywheel. Yes it is a more aggressive than the Stage 2 Daily kit with the same flywheel but that is all in the clutch design.

Kits like the Southbend Stage 3 Daily have a non-marcel type disk, The Stage "2" Daily has a marcel type disk. This "Marcel" in the disk is what gives you the smoother, longer engagement window more like a stock clutch feel, Disks' "without" Marcel fin have a shorter engagement window and a more aggressive engagement.

The Southbend flywheel is a good "middle weight" for the 370Z @ 19lbs. 19lbs is really not that light regarding flywheels in a 3200ish lb car.

IMO 17-20 lbs is about as perfect as it gets for flywheel weight in this car. It is much more lively while retaining the driveability. Again, the clutch itself will play a more important role in how it actually drives though.

bcfromfl · 04-16-2018, 11:44 AM

Thank you very much, Joe, for the detailed explanation! I called a little while ago and left a message on your machine.

09-18-2017, 06:11 PM	#3 (permalink)
SS_Firehawk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Tampa Posts: 4,142 Drives: 13' Magma Red Nismo Rep Power: 7336	My car has 23k miles and the clutch doesn't grab on full upshifts. I'm picking up the Specialty Z clutch & flywheel soon. It comes with a Tilton slave. I recommend you replace the master cylinder as well with an RJM master cylinder. The clutch engagement is low, heavier than stock, but easier to read. It doesn't change pressure or get soft when hot either. __________________ Old Car:GTM TSC'd 550whp / 410lbft tq @ 11.88PSI New Car: Under Construction

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09-18-2017, 04:48 PM	#2 (permalink)
socce Base Member Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Northwest Arkansas Posts: 241 Drives: 40th Rep Power: 10	I've got the z1 clutch / light flywheel waiting to be put in myself. Anyone have a clip of this flywheel chatter ? Need to replace the disks also - anyone can explain the difference to expect between the full face disk and the unsprung full face disk ?

04-14-2018, 05:12 PM	#4 (permalink)
bcfromfl Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Youngstown, FL Posts: 256 Drives: 2015 PW Nismo 6MT Rep Power: 10	I tried calling ZSpeed today (Saturday) but didn't get any answer -- I'll try again next week. I've decided to go with the Stage 3 South Bend clutch kit with CMAK and quiet disk, but don't have a clue which flywheel to select. I'll never track the car...it's basically just a fun toy to drive when the weather's nice. I'll need the Stage 3 to hold Topz's A2A kit. I don't like how the OEM flywheel "overshoots" revs when shifting in higher RPMs, but I appreciate how it contributes to a civilized drivetrain. Where I drive are some stoplights/stop signs, and I really don't want to negatively affect the driveability of the car. I've read how touchy light flywheels can be, but I'm frustrated that the only choice at ZSpeed in the mid-20lb range is a nodular iron flywheel. On other cars, nodular iron doesn't get very good reviews. I'd appreciate thoughts on the nodular iron flywheel vs. the 19lb DXD billet one, or other suggestions. Once I'm Ecutek-tuned with the supercharger, might the factory flywheel be an acceptable option?

04-16-2018, 11:44 AM	#6 (permalink)
bcfromfl Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Youngstown, FL Posts: 256 Drives: 2015 PW Nismo 6MT Rep Power: 10	Thank you very much, Joe, for the detailed explanation! I called a little while ago and left a message on your machine.