Recommended Oil coolers & questions

Rusty

If you are thinking about tracking in the future. A 34 row from Z1 or FI, end of story. If you are just DD. A 25 row would be your best bet.

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ban25

This, 100%. Just to put it in perspective, I'm seriously thinking of adding a *second* 34-row cooler....

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2017 Corvette Z06 7MT | 1LE | Stage 3 | DSCSport

ChiefPat

I just installed a 34 row from Z1 a couple weeks ago. 2014 Touring/Sport, essentially stock, my DD and autocross/HPDE warrior.

I left the stock oil to water cooler because I didn't have the non-cooler filter stud. If you leave the stock cooler, you will have a tough time getting the lines installed and the oil filter in place. There is very little room for the tiny stock filter with the Z1 cooler plate and the stock cooler plate installed; forget about putting a taller filter there. I am going to remove the stock cooler soon and bypass the coolant loop.

I ran a track event in NC last weekend, with temps around 95 and ridiculous humidity. Oil temperature topped out around 230 during each 20 minute session, and quickly dropped to 180 after coming off track and turning the A/C on. I was trying to keep up with the C6s in the twisties and keep the STIs in the rearwiew, so I was not being easy on it at all

NRGz

Im going to go ahead and bump this again; i currently have both z1 and stillens in my cart ready to buy.. After some more research i keep seeing people relocating something and drilling; which one of these provide a true bolt on with no relocating or drilling required?

I have an 09 touring and looking for a 19 or 25 only.

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Jhill

Well both you have to drill a little. The z1 you drill one hole in the vertical beam for the hood latch, that's it.

Just go the z1 and you will not be sorry. Stock oil filter size with many to choose from and a thermostatic plate. Very simple install.

GMB14U2NV

I am installing the 19row for tranny and 34row for oil this weekend on a 2014 Touring Sport.
From all of my pre-planning I only see me drilling for the mount brackets. No cutting.
All my front mod parts were from Z1. Intake/Coolers
They are very good to deal with and work with. Lot's of people like them from a lot of feedback you will see in forum.
But you can go with "Name Plate" products too if you want bragging rights....
(Personally I liked the savings and can use that money on other "Name Plate" deserving mods that are seen without opening a hood.)

Jhill

Hey cool I did the same 19/34 setup. You can use mine to copy if you want. I combined the two mounts and ran the 19 in front of the 34 (doesn't seem to effect the 34 at all).

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Jhill

Don't know why it only loaded one but here is other

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GMB14U2NV

I just might have copy this.....
I was going to have a fab shop make me an extended bracket to mount on passenger side.

But if this worked better for you, then I might just go your route instead.

I do wonder though.... If I paint mine before mounting, will it jack up the cooling? I have seen some guys with painted coolers around town.

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Jhill

You mean paint it other than the already painted black? It may affect it but I don't it would be super noticeable. Scientifically black does the best job of heat transfer though and I had seen a test done once with a semi controlled environment testing intercooler efficiency and just painting the same intercooler black dropped the outgoing air temp by quiet a bit. So would I recommend to paint it? No.

You don't need a fab shop if you know how to use a drill and a counter sink. If you go Stillen AT and Z1/F.I. Cooler all you need to do is counter sink the Stillen plate where the holes are to mount to the rad support, then lay that plate on top of the setrab brack and drill through it where the Stillen plate matches (I think only 2 of the 3 holes line up but it's more than enough support). Then get yourself some flat toped tapered head screws and bolt the two plates together (you will want really short screws and thin nuts, I ground the nuts down to the same thickness as the z1 bolt heads that sit under the setrab plate). Now space the 34 row cooler up a little with washers to clear the Stillen plate then install both coolers and put in car. Works great, no need to relocate the power steering cooler in the other side to fit the AT cooler or anything else.

I was going to fab my own bracket but then when I saw how easy it would be to combine both I just did that instead, easier than trying to use my buddies mill and finding material and no one will see it behind the bumper.

NRGz

Im curious when you guys have an oil cooler for the tranny.. Is this for 6mt only? Ive seen alot of 'coolers' for the liquids for the car; transmission, power steering.. Are these a must need for track? Im curious about the transmission fluid.. After driving for a while in both auto and manual mode i get this.. Thunk when it shifts from second to first gear when slowing down and shifting down by itself. Almost feels like a stall. There is also a clunk... I want to say at the driver side rear.
When i took it to the dealer for an oil change and there free 128 (or 126?) multi point inspection; they said everything was good!
I know alot of cars run without ever touching there transmission fluid, im also curious how many miles should i push before a flush?


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Jhill

The trans coolers are for 7at users. That downshift I have experienced once or twice myself, does it happen when you have like a very light throttle while just barely cruising down a residential street (like if you were looking for an address)? I have only had it happen maybe once or twice and it seems that your right at a load range where the trans isn't quiet sure what gear it wants. After I had a tune done I have not had this happen since as the trans seems to hold gear longer.

Is a cooler necessary? Maybe not but a Stillen at cooler is like 300.00 and a 7at trans is like 9k. So I do track my car so I give it every bit of protection I can, flushed trans at 35k with amsoil and installed cooler when I bought it and will probably to regular drain and fills every 30k after.

GMB14U2NV

Not an entire paint coat of whole cooler. I was going to have a stenciled mark on the lower side and it wouldn't be to thick. More like a logo but not a brand name. I doubt it hurts it. we shall see.........

wideglideleon

I have a 19row setrab for my 7a and the 34row for my oil I live in AZ I consider it cheap insurance.

NRGz

Just purchased a z1 19 row. Figured i might as well do an install now rather than procrastinate and never do it lol.

It happens when i come to a complete stop. I have a ecutek etune thru SZ, and revs on the auto is higher per gear. It happens when im slowing down to a light or a stop. Happens on both man mode and auto. It sort of feels like my brakes grab suddenly then slows again.
I did have pads and rotors replaced and break in was fine; dealer said everything is still straight but still couldnt find why it did that. I took the dealer mech in the passenger to show him what i meant; he couldnt figure it out.. All he did was recommend me for a full on full inspection which would run me alot of money.. But couldnt find the courage to do the inspection as i would worry that this could be "normal" when the temps are high.


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