Recommended Oil coolers & questions

NRGz · 08-05-2016, 12:56 PM

Currently in the market for an oil cooler.. Seeing the temp in the 220's touching 230 late at night on the freeway and 220s during some stop-and-go traffic during errand runs.. well worries me for some reason. You can say the only reason I'm in the market for one is for a peace of mind

. I guess its sort of like a pet peeve of mine, especially when my Ninja Zx6r touches 200 degrees cruising (it bothers me for some reason

)

The car does see high revs often and short spirited runs, as well as the back roads quite a bit lately. Im located up in the Northern California and we have been seeing triple digits for a while; but knowing how winter comes by, it can get somewhat cold, no lesser than 32 degrees cold though. As a DD, I visit Reno often, about once every 3 months- and it was ugly cold and snowing when I last visited.

7AT 09

Could you pick your own mounting spot?
Would these fit just fit w/ Stillen G3 intakes in the front (per mounting spot)?
Does the front bumper sit flush over it?
How much more oil is needed to compensate for the oil sitting in the lines?
Is there a company that makes a cooler w/ a by-pass switch/valve to completely shut or at least somewhat close off some of the oil being passed?I only ask this just for the 'just in case' scenarios from when traveling to a colder climate that sees freezing temps
When you do an oil change, do these lines completely drain as well? Or could I have to disconnect them to train it?
How much cooling can these things do? In terms of what possible temperatures can I be looking at cruising on the freeway for an hour?
Any companies offer warranty?
Would there be any problems or retrofitting involved (such as removing, or moving a line or something along those..lines)

Price isn't an issue; though I am not looking to spend 2-3x on something that will perform the same with a cheaper option. Not looking to upgrade after that as well (unless it breaks of course). It is looking to stay once it is mounted up. Car is going to be N/A for its life unless someone throws a free supercharger at me.

Thanks in advance!
nrgZ

2011 Nismo#91 · 08-05-2016, 03:34 PM

212F is the ideal temp for oil to be honest. And with modern synthetics they won't break down much even at 260F. But to answer your questions:

Could you pick your own mounting spot? Sure but why reinvent the wheel, use what people know works.

Would these fit just fit w/ Stillen G3 intakes in the front (per mounting spot)?
Yes, some minor cutting may be needed but only in places that will not be visible or effect anything.

Does the front bumper sit flush over it?
Yes

How much more oil is needed to compensate for the oil sitting in the lines?
Usually just under 1 qt more

Is there a company that makes a cooler w/ a by-pass switch/valve to completely shut or at least somewhat close off some of the oil being passed?I only ask this just for the 'just in case' scenarios from when traveling to a colder climate that sees freezing temps
None completely shut for good reasons I won't go into here. For colder weather a simple block off plate is effective and can be installed with a simple Velcro strip for easy removal.

When you do an oil change, do these lines completely drain as well? Or could I have to disconnect them to train it?
It' won't drain completely, but even in a normal system you never get all the oil out and it doesn't hurt anything.

How much cooling can these things do?
34 row is good for simple forced induction builds
25 row is good for NA tracking
19 row is good for spirited street driving

In terms of what possible temperatures can I be looking at cruising on the freeway for an hour?
180F

Any companies offer warranty?
As far as I know they just warrant their parts only Z1 and Stillen.

Would there be any problems or retrofitting involved (such as removing, or moving a line or something along those..lines)
Depends? Not clear on the question.

Price isn't an issue; though I am not looking to spend 2-3x on something that will perform the same with a cheaper option. Not looking to upgrade after that as well (unless it breaks of course). It is looking to stay once it is mounted up. Car is going to be N/A for its life unless someone throws a free supercharger at me.
I'm pretty sure you'll be fine with a Z1 cooler setrab 24row, Thermostatic kit.

NRGz · 08-05-2016, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91

212F is the ideal temp for oil to be honest. And with modern synthetics they won't break down much even at 260F. But to answer your questions:

Could you pick your own mounting spot? Sure but why reinvent the wheel, use what people know works.

Would these fit just fit w/ Stillen G3 intakes in the front (per mounting spot)?

Yes, some minor cutting may be needed but only in places that will not be visible or effect anything.

Does the front bumper sit flush over it?

Yes

How much more oil is needed to compensate for the oil sitting in the lines?

Usually just under 1 qt more

Is there a company that makes a cooler w/ a by-pass switch/valve to completely shut or at least somewhat close off some of the oil being passed?I only ask this just for the 'just in case' scenarios from when traveling to a colder climate that sees freezing temps

None completely shut for good reasons I won't go into here. For colder weather a simple block off plate is effective and can be installed with a simple Velcro strip for easy removal.

When you do an oil change, do these lines completely drain as well? Or could I have to disconnect them to train it?

It' won't drain completely, but even in a normal system you never get all the oil out and it doesn't hurt anything.

How much cooling can these things do?

34 row is good for simple forced induction builds

25 row is good for NA tracking

19 row is good for spirited street driving

In terms of what possible temperatures can I be looking at cruising on the freeway for an hour?

180F

Any companies offer warranty?

As far as I know they just warrant their parts only Z1 and Stillen.

Would there be any problems or retrofitting involved (such as removing, or moving a line or something along those..lines)

Depends? Not clear on the question.

Price isn't an issue; though I am not looking to spend 2-3x on something that will perform the same with a cheaper option. Not looking to upgrade after that as well (unless it breaks of course). It is looking to stay once it is mounted up. Car is going to be N/A for its life unless someone throws a free supercharger at me.

I'm pretty sure you'll be fine with a Z1 cooler setrab 24row, Thermostatic kit.

Thank you for your reply and answering my questions, really appreciate it

I was reading up on stillen's cooler.. It had mentioned somewhere that a fram filter is only used (unless i read too much and went onto something else).
Would these kits be capable with KN Series filters?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jhill · 08-05-2016, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NRGz

Thank you for your reply and answering my questions, really appreciate it

I was reading up on stillen's cooler.. It had mentioned somewhere that a fram filter is only used (unless i read too much and went onto something else).
Would these kits be capable with KN Series filters?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For cooler choices I would choose z1 cooler. For street probably just the smallest. I chose the 34 row for track days and with it I still hit about 245 on a cooler day at leguna so I'm glad I went that route as I can always block airflow off which I will need to do before this winter. Attached is my setup that I ran the Stillen at cooler in front of the z1 34 row and integrated the two mounts together.

Spooler · 08-05-2016, 09:22 PM

Use either a Z1 for Fast Intentions oil cooler kit. They are the only ones worth having. Make sure you take off the factory oil stabilizer, it actually heats the oil and defeats the purpose of an external oil cooler.

OldFart · 08-05-2016, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

Use either a Z1 for Fast Intentions oil cooler kit. They are the only ones worth having. Make sure you take off the factory oil stabilizer, it actually heats the oil and defeats the purpose of an external oil cooler.

Care to explain the factory oil stabilzer part? I did a DIY and have no recollection of encountering this.

Jhill · 08-05-2016, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldFart

Care to explain the factory oil stabilzer part? I did a DIY and have no recollection of encountering this.

I actually left mine on. It's only on 2012+ models. I figure it will help with warm up in cold climate. If you remove you will need the pre 2012 oil filter stud

Spooler · 08-05-2016, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldFart

Care to explain the factory oil stabilzer part? I did a DIY and have no recollection of encountering this.

Yes, it is an oil heater basically. It does not do much for cooling. It defeats the purpose of the external oil cooler. That is why you need to remove it. They started installing them in 2012 as stated above. I would only use a kit that uses the factory oil filter.

NRGz · 08-06-2016, 09:10 AM

How are the oem coolers that come with the newer models? Would they fit an 09? (Direct bolt on)

A little concerned today about getting one now as this morning (430am) it was a chilly 55 degrees. Atleast chilly for me due to having dealt with triple digits for a few months and 80 degree mornings for a while..

Oil was showing 190 degrees for a 30 minute freeway commute with lots of 4th-7th gear changes. I feel like thats too cold? Please correct me if im wrong. I would like an ideal temp of 200-215

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jhill · 08-06-2016, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NRGz

How are the oem coolers that come with the newer models? Would they fit an 09? (Direct bolt on)

A little concerned today about getting one now as this morning (430am) it was a chilly 55 degrees. Atleast chilly for me due to having dealt with triple digits for a few months and 80 degree mornings for a while..

Oil was showing 190 degrees for a 30 minute freeway commute with lots of 4th-7th gear changes. I feel like thats too cold? Please correct me if im wrong. I would like an ideal temp of 200-215

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The new cooler is the one that the other poster was referring to as a stabilizer. It is really a water to oil cooler and they do work and for general street use I think it would be fine. They do cool the oil vs no cooler but they are not as efficient as air to oil. I imaging you could install one in an earlier model but the install would most likely be more expensive and more difficult to install than just a 19 row cooler. You would have to get the cooler, the new filter stud, the hoses, coolant, and the coolant hard lines. Really not worth it.

bleunetizen · 08-06-2016, 07:13 PM

The factory cooler/stabilizer is a good feature, you dont really need to remove it unless you are seeking the lowest temp possible in any condition with very large external oil cooler.

It's purpose is bringing the oil and water temp close to each other. It can be called as cooler or heater depending on which side is hotter.

During cold start, oil takes so much longer than water to reach its optimum temperature. Having this stock cooler/stabilizer helps oil heat up quicker for cold start by bringing oil and water temp close to each other..

During normal driving conditions, oil temp goes slightly higher than water temp. Having this stock cooler/stabilizer helps oil cool down by bringing oil and water temp close to each other.

During hard driving conditions, oil temp shoots up so much higher than water in stock setup without external oil cooler. Again, stock cooler/stabilizer helps oil cool down by bringing oil and water temp close to each other.

During normal driving conditions WITH large external oil cooler, it takes so much longer to heat up the oil to normal operating temperature due to rapid cooling. Again, stock cooler/stabilizer helps oil heat up quicker by bringing oil and water temp close to each other.

The only time you are better off without the stock cooler/stabilizer is when you have a very large external oil cooler that can bring your oil temp lower than the water and you want to keep it that way for as long as possible - ie, full on race build where you dont care about warming up. its just like using low temp thermostat for water to keep the car cool as much as it can.

Remember, low temp is not always the best. Keep the stock cooler/stabilizer, unless what you are looking for is small bit of weight reduction or have a very specific goal to achieve.

ban25 · 08-07-2016, 02:40 AM

The oil temperature gauge reads low with a cooler installed because it is measuring the temperature of the oil coming out of the cooler. This means your 190F oil temp is really around 210F. Also note that the ECU will start to pull timing as early as 230F. There's really no need to worry about your oil being too cold in California.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NRGz

How are the oem coolers that come with the newer models? Would they fit an 09? (Direct bolt on)

A little concerned today about getting one now as this morning (430am) it was a chilly 55 degrees. Atleast chilly for me due to having dealt with triple digits for a few months and 80 degree mornings for a while..

Oil was showing 190 degrees for a 30 minute freeway commute with lots of 4th-7th gear changes. I feel like thats too cold? Please correct me if im wrong. I would like an ideal temp of 200-215

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ramage · 08-07-2016, 09:26 AM

Interesting info here, I have a '15 DD. Is it feasible to add an 19+ cooler to it?

ChaseZ · 08-07-2016, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ramage

Interesting info here, I have a '15 DD. Is it feasible to add an 19+ cooler to it?

Added a Stillen 25 row to mine and absolutely blown away by it.

NRGz · 08-07-2016, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ban25

The oil temperature gauge reads low with a cooler installed because it is measuring the temperature of the oil coming out of the cooler. This means your 190F oil temp is really around 210F. Also note that the ECU will start to pull timing as early as 230F. There's really no need to worry about your oil being too cold in California.

This was with no cooler. Im interested in a 19 as it seems like the smallest i can find that comes with a kit w/out building or retrofitting anything..
This morninf was 65degrees, ran about 195 and not over 200 for a 30 minute commute.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

08-05-2016, 12:56 PM	#1 (permalink)
NRGz Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: NorCal Posts: 259 Drives: 09 Z. 06 Zx636 Rep Power: 30	Recommended Oil coolers & questions Currently in the market for an oil cooler.. Seeing the temp in the 220's touching 230 late at night on the freeway and 220s during some stop-and-go traffic during errand runs.. well worries me for some reason. You can say the only reason I'm in the market for one is for a peace of mind . I guess its sort of like a pet peeve of mine, especially when my Ninja Zx6r touches 200 degrees cruising (it bothers me for some reason ) The car does see high revs often and short spirited runs, as well as the back roads quite a bit lately. Im located up in the Northern California and we have been seeing triple digits for a while; but knowing how winter comes by, it can get somewhat cold, no lesser than 32 degrees cold though. As a DD, I visit Reno often, about once every 3 months- and it was ugly cold and snowing when I last visited. 7AT 09 Could you pick your own mounting spot? Would these fit just fit w/ Stillen G3 intakes in the front (per mounting spot)? Does the front bumper sit flush over it? How much more oil is needed to compensate for the oil sitting in the lines? Is there a company that makes a cooler w/ a by-pass switch/valve to completely shut or at least somewhat close off some of the oil being passed?I only ask this just for the 'just in case' scenarios from when traveling to a colder climate that sees freezing temps When you do an oil change, do these lines completely drain as well? Or could I have to disconnect them to train it? How much cooling can these things do? In terms of what possible temperatures can I be looking at cruising on the freeway for an hour? Any companies offer warranty? Would there be any problems or retrofitting involved (such as removing, or moving a line or something along those..lines) Price isn't an issue; though I am not looking to spend 2-3x on something that will perform the same with a cheaper option. Not looking to upgrade after that as well (unless it breaks of course). It is looking to stay once it is mounted up. Car is going to be N/A for its life unless someone throws a free supercharger at me. Thanks in advance! nrgZ Last edited by NRGz; 08-05-2016 at 12:59 PM.

08-06-2016, 07:13 PM	#11 (permalink)
bleunetizen Base Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: NZ Posts: 138 Drives: BMW M6, 530i, 370z Rep Power: 12	The factory cooler/stabilizer is a good feature, you dont really need to remove it unless you are seeking the lowest temp possible in any condition with very large external oil cooler. It's purpose is bringing the oil and water temp close to each other. It can be called as cooler or heater depending on which side is hotter. During cold start, oil takes so much longer than water to reach its optimum temperature. Having this stock cooler/stabilizer helps oil heat up quicker for cold start by bringing oil and water temp close to each other.. During normal driving conditions, oil temp goes slightly higher than water temp. Having this stock cooler/stabilizer helps oil cool down by bringing oil and water temp close to each other. During hard driving conditions, oil temp shoots up so much higher than water in stock setup without external oil cooler. Again, stock cooler/stabilizer helps oil cool down by bringing oil and water temp close to each other. During normal driving conditions WITH large external oil cooler, it takes so much longer to heat up the oil to normal operating temperature due to rapid cooling. Again, stock cooler/stabilizer helps oil heat up quicker by bringing oil and water temp close to each other. The only time you are better off without the stock cooler/stabilizer is when you have a very large external oil cooler that can bring your oil temp lower than the water and you want to keep it that way for as long as possible - ie, full on race build where you dont care about warming up. its just like using low temp thermostat for water to keep the car cool as much as it can. Remember, low temp is not always the best. Keep the stock cooler/stabilizer, unless what you are looking for is small bit of weight reduction or have a very specific goal to achieve. JARblue and Nismonerd like this.

08-07-2016, 09:26 AM	#13 (permalink)
Ramage Base Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Weymouth,Ma Posts: 72 Drives: 15 Z Midnight blue Rep Power: 12	Interesting info here, I have a '15 DD. Is it feasible to add an 19+ cooler to it? __________________ I am not designed to come second or third.. I am designed to WIN! - Ayrton Senna

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08-05-2016, 03:34 PM	#2 (permalink)
2011 Nismo#91 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: NJ Posts: 2,412 Drives: slowly Rep Power: 40570	212F is the ideal temp for oil to be honest. And with modern synthetics they won't break down much even at 260F. But to answer your questions: Could you pick your own mounting spot? Sure but why reinvent the wheel, use what people know works. Would these fit just fit w/ Stillen G3 intakes in the front (per mounting spot)? Yes, some minor cutting may be needed but only in places that will not be visible or effect anything. Does the front bumper sit flush over it? Yes How much more oil is needed to compensate for the oil sitting in the lines? Usually just under 1 qt more Is there a company that makes a cooler w/ a by-pass switch/valve to completely shut or at least somewhat close off some of the oil being passed?I only ask this just for the 'just in case' scenarios from when traveling to a colder climate that sees freezing temps None completely shut for good reasons I won't go into here. For colder weather a simple block off plate is effective and can be installed with a simple Velcro strip for easy removal. When you do an oil change, do these lines completely drain as well? Or could I have to disconnect them to train it? It' won't drain completely, but even in a normal system you never get all the oil out and it doesn't hurt anything. How much cooling can these things do? 34 row is good for simple forced induction builds 25 row is good for NA tracking 19 row is good for spirited street driving In terms of what possible temperatures can I be looking at cruising on the freeway for an hour? 180F Any companies offer warranty? As far as I know they just warrant their parts only Z1 and Stillen. Would there be any problems or retrofitting involved (such as removing, or moving a line or something along those..lines) Depends? Not clear on the question. Price isn't an issue; though I am not looking to spend 2-3x on something that will perform the same with a cheaper option. Not looking to upgrade after that as well (unless it breaks of course). It is looking to stay once it is mounted up. Car is going to be N/A for its life unless someone throws a free supercharger at me. I'm pretty sure you'll be fine with a Z1 cooler setrab 24row, Thermostatic kit.

08-05-2016, 09:22 PM	#5 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 14,117 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684394	Use either a Z1 for Fast Intentions oil cooler kit. They are the only ones worth having. Make sure you take off the factory oil stabilizer, it actually heats the oil and defeats the purpose of an external oil cooler.

08-06-2016, 09:10 AM	#9 (permalink)
NRGz Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: NorCal Posts: 259 Drives: 09 Z. 06 Zx636 Rep Power: 30	How are the oem coolers that come with the newer models? Would they fit an 09? (Direct bolt on) A little concerned today about getting one now as this morning (430am) it was a chilly 55 degrees. Atleast chilly for me due to having dealt with triple digits for a few months and 80 degree mornings for a while.. Oil was showing 190 degrees for a 30 minute freeway commute with lots of 4th-7th gear changes. I feel like thats too cold? Please correct me if im wrong. I would like an ideal temp of 200-215 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk