Installing ARP wheel studs

Rusty · 04-04-2013, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VDC_OFF

yeah ARP's are 25mm longer than stock. You maybe be able to squeeze in a 20mm without pulling the hub in the rear. Nice breaker bar though, I actually had to pull out the suspension arms and axle to get my straight breaker bar to work. One thing I noticed is you NEVER want to let your caliper hang by the line. Get some bungee cables to hang them up.

Edit: Also dont forget to torque to specs. Hub bolts are 65 and axle nut is 133

I took the pictures before I put the bungee cord on.

I forgot to include the torque specs. Thanks!

That break bar is a SnapOn flex head ratchet.

Rusty · 04-04-2013, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scruffydog

thanks buddy! I need to do the exact same thing over the weekends!

I had you in mind when I was posting this.

scruffydog · 04-13-2013, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Next is the rear.

Remove the wheel. Put the E-brake on and put the Z in gear. Remove the cotter key from the axle shaft. Remove the locking piece for the nut. Now use a 32mm socket with a breaker bar, I used an air gun. To remove the axle nut.

Next, Relaese the E-brake, and take the Z out of gear. Remove the brake pads, caliper, and rotor. Remove the E-brake shoes.

Next up is the unit bearing. There is 4, 17mm bolts holding it on from behind. It's tight back there with the CV joint. You can't use a 1/2" drive 17mm socket because of the wall thickness. I used a 3/8" drive 17mm socket with an adapter on a 1/2" drive racket. Worked like a charm.

Note: I marked the unit bearings on top so I how how it goes back on.

I'm at this point right now and I can't seem to get the 3/8" socket to fit in the 4 bolts around the CV Joint....this is a paint. I managed to get 1 out of the 4 bolts. I think i'm gonna take a break for awhile. I also need to get a 6 pt 3/8 17mm socket (socket set). Keep you up to date. This sucks...I took off a lot of linkages and wondering if I should need to take off the whole CV Shaft from the hub.

My front's taken off but I need a vice to hammer it in or buy myself an impact driver to fasten a spacer (which i have) to pull the stud in from the front side.

need to get myself a set of 6pt socket too

Rusty · 04-13-2013, 07:05 PM

I used a Snap-On 3/8" drive, 17mm socket with an 1/2"adapter, 4" extension on a 1/2" breaker bar. Once broke free. I used the 3/8", 17mm socket with a 6" long, 3/8" drive extension, and 3/8" drive ratchet.

scruffydog · 04-13-2013, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

I used a Snap-On 3/8" drive, 17mm socket with an 1/2"adapter, 4" extension on a 1/2" breaker bar. Once broke free. I used the 3/8", 17mm socket with a 6" long, 3/8" drive extension, and 3/8" drive ratchet.

Thanks for the help! I only have craftsman stuff and the wall thickness is not working out for me. I just picked up a 6pt 17mm 3/8 socket set (both reg & deep), i'm gonna give that a try and let you know how it goes.

So you didn't need to take out the axle? I'm seriously considering that right now.

Rusty · 04-13-2013, 09:22 PM

Never took out the axle. Just removed the big nut, the 4 bolts, and slid the unit bearing off the knuckle.

scruffydog · 04-13-2013, 09:33 PM

Ah, so for the rear you did need to remove the big axle nut to make room around the CV drum for the 4 bolts. Hmm, I don't have an impact gun to remove the axle nut and I already removed all the OEM studs to put the car back on wheels to break the nut off.

Scratching head as to what to do.

Rusty · 04-13-2013, 09:46 PM

YEA!!! LOL It's the 32mm nut I was talking about. You can put 2 studs part way in, and use a pry bar between them to hold the flange from turning.

scruffydog · 04-14-2013, 12:27 AM

yea I may need to do that or borrow a friends air compressor for impact. But it's over 130 lb-ft so will see if it'll do the trick. Ill have to wedge some nuts on the OEM studs to give that a try tomorrow. Ill keep you updates thanks for the help!

scruffydog · 04-14-2013, 10:03 PM

Yay, I finally got it off and I do need to take the axle nut off with an impact after all. I cannot get access to the 4 wheel hub screws with a 3/8 17mm socket without pushing the CV Joint back a little (which meant I needed to remove the Axle nut). It was a piece of cake once I borrowed an air compressor from a friend. Looks like that'll be my next toy to get. Thanks for all the help.

Rusty · 04-14-2013, 10:22 PM

Hey, no problem.

The axle has to come off anyway to remove the unit bearing. With the nut off. you found out that you got a little more room to work with.

edconline · 11-26-2013, 01:26 AM

Thanks for this write up! I'll be making use of it shortly, after I drill out the 3 studs per side on the front wheels to get them off

I'm looking at the ARP studs also, but I really don't want any stud protrusion with the lugs. Do you think R40's would be deep enough that none of the stud would poke? It seems a bit ridiculous ARP doesn't make them in a shorter length.

VDC_OFF · 11-26-2013, 10:09 AM

depends on if you are using spacers or not. It may poke out a little without spacers.

edconline · 11-26-2013, 12:37 PM

Nope no spacers. The offset is +15 rear and +25 front, so I didn't need spacers anymore with the advans. Damn. Might go back to stock then, or get the nismo ones.
I guess cutting some length off the arp studs would work too.

VDC_OFF · 11-26-2013, 01:03 PM

yeah, i had to cut off the tip on one since I messed up a thread by accident. Used a dremel and some patience. Dont forget goggles.

04-13-2013, 07:05 PM	#19 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 34,871 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684436	I used a Snap-On 3/8" drive, 17mm socket with an 1/2"adapter, 4" extension on a 1/2" breaker bar. Once broke free. I used the 3/8", 17mm socket with a 6" long, 3/8" drive extension, and 3/8" drive ratchet. JARblue likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

04-13-2013, 09:22 PM	#21 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 34,871 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684436	Never took out the axle. Just removed the big nut, the 4 bolts, and slid the unit bearing off the knuckle. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

04-13-2013, 09:33 PM	#22 (permalink)
scruffydog A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,113 Drives: with his eyes close Rep Power: 717	Ah, so for the rear you did need to remove the big axle nut to make room around the CV drum for the 4 bolts. Hmm, I don't have an impact gun to remove the axle nut and I already removed all the OEM studs to put the car back on wheels to break the nut off. Scratching head as to what to do. __________________ Magnetic Black 2010 370z Scruffydog's Journal

04-13-2013, 09:46 PM	#23 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 34,871 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684436	YEA!!! LOL It's the 32mm nut I was talking about. You can put 2 studs part way in, and use a pry bar between them to hold the flange from turning. JARblue likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

04-14-2013, 12:27 AM	#24 (permalink)
scruffydog A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,113 Drives: with his eyes close Rep Power: 717	yea I may need to do that or borrow a friends air compressor for impact. But it's over 130 lb-ft so will see if it'll do the trick. Ill have to wedge some nuts on the OEM studs to give that a try tomorrow. Ill keep you updates thanks for the help! __________________ Magnetic Black 2010 370z Scruffydog's Journal

04-14-2013, 10:03 PM	#25 (permalink)
scruffydog A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,113 Drives: with his eyes close Rep Power: 717	Yay, I finally got it off and I do need to take the axle nut off with an impact after all. I cannot get access to the 4 wheel hub screws with a 3/8 17mm socket without pushing the CV Joint back a little (which meant I needed to remove the Axle nut). It was a piece of cake once I borrowed an air compressor from a friend. Looks like that'll be my next toy to get. Thanks for all the help. __________________ Magnetic Black 2010 370z Scruffydog's Journal

04-14-2013, 10:22 PM	#26 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 34,871 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684436	Hey, no problem. The axle has to come off anyway to remove the unit bearing. With the nut off. you found out that you got a little more room to work with. scruffydog likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

11-26-2013, 01:26 AM	#27 (permalink)
edconline Track Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Edmonton Posts: 855 Drives: 10' MB Z34 6MT T/S/N Rep Power: 22	Thanks for this write up! I'll be making use of it shortly, after I drill out the 3 studs per side on the front wheels to get them off I'm looking at the ARP studs also, but I really don't want any stud protrusion with the lugs. Do you think R40's would be deep enough that none of the stud would poke? It seems a bit ridiculous ARP doesn't make them in a shorter length. __________________ View Journal Audio Build

11-26-2013, 10:09 AM	#28 (permalink)
VDC_OFF A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Houston (Pearland) Age: 44 Posts: 1,205 Drives: 2011 370Z M6 Rep Power: 16	depends on if you are using spacers or not. It may poke out a little without spacers. __________________ DRIFTING JOURNAL \| Follow me on Instagram \| Facebook \| Houston Halos

11-26-2013, 12:37 PM	#29 (permalink)
edconline Track Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Edmonton Posts: 855 Drives: 10' MB Z34 6MT T/S/N Rep Power: 22	Nope no spacers. The offset is +15 rear and +25 front, so I didn't need spacers anymore with the advans. Damn. Might go back to stock then, or get the nismo ones. I guess cutting some length off the arp studs would work too. __________________ View Journal Audio Build Last edited by edconline; 11-26-2013 at 12:41 PM.

11-26-2013, 01:03 PM	#30 (permalink)
VDC_OFF A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Houston (Pearland) Age: 44 Posts: 1,205 Drives: 2011 370Z M6 Rep Power: 16	yeah, i had to cut off the tip on one since I messed up a thread by accident. Used a dremel and some patience. Dont forget goggles. __________________ DRIFTING JOURNAL \| Follow me on Instagram \| Facebook \| Houston Halos

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