Installing ARP wheel studs

Rusty · 04-04-2013, 11:40 AM

I installed ARP wheel studs for 2 reasons. I wanted a longer stud to ingage more of the lug nut, and I had a lug nut strip out.

These pictures here are of the front.

First remove the wheel, brake pads, caliper, and the unit bearing. The unit bearing has 4 bolts holding it on. You get to them from behind.

Once the unit bearing is out. You can use a punch, I used a brass one. I put the unit bearing in a vise, and beat the old studs out. 4 or 5 good hits and they're out.

You don't need a press to put the new studs in. But you can if you want to. I've been doing this since the late '70's so. Now I start with the first stud and beat it in. MAKE sure that it is seated flush on the flange. Then do the rest. After you are done with all 5 studs. Double check that all 5 studs are flush.

Note: I marked the unit bearing on top so I know how it goes back on.

Rusty · 04-04-2013, 11:47 AM

Now install the unit bearing. Followed by the rotor, caliper, brake pads, and wheel. This is it for the front. It took me about 2 hours to do one side.

Rusty · 04-04-2013, 12:01 PM

Next is the rear.

Remove the wheel. Put the E-brake on and put the Z in gear. Remove the cotter key from the axle shaft. Remove the locking piece for the nut. Now use a 32mm socket with a breaker bar, I used an air gun. To remove the axle nut.

Next, Relaese the E-brake, and take the Z out of gear. Remove the brake pads, caliper, and rotor. Remove the E-brake shoes.

Next up is the unit bearing. There is 4, 17mm bolts holding it on from behind. It's tight back there with the CV joint. You can't use a 1/2" drive 17mm socket because of the wall thickness. I used a 3/8" drive 17mm socket with an adapter on a 1/2" drive racket. Worked like a charm.

Note: I marked the unit bearings on top so I how how it goes back on.

Rusty · 04-04-2013, 12:05 PM

Now to remove and install the new wheel studs. It's just like doing the front.

Mitco39 · 04-04-2013, 12:07 PM

Wow you went through alot more work than you had to. I was able to remove and install my studs with only removing the wheel and brake caliper. There is enough room to tap them out the back of the fronts. Then on the backs you just remove the parking brake drum and pop out the adjuster and take them out that way.

** This was with whatever length stud comes with both the 15 and 20mm spacers of course. So if yours are quite a bit longer than these then it may not have been possible.

Rusty · 04-04-2013, 12:21 PM

Once the studs are installed in the unit bearing. Time to put everything back together. Install the unit bearing,

Install the E-brake shoes, and rotor. When doing this part. You have to adjust the E-brakes for proper adjustment.

Install the caliper, brake pads.

Put the Z in gear, and put the E-brake on. Install the axle nut and torque to spec. Install the locking piece, and cotter key.

Install the wheel. And you're done. It took me about 2 hours per wheel to do this. So that's about 8 hours total. That's with taking breaks to check on GF who had foot surgery.

Rusty · 04-04-2013, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitco39

Wow you went through alot more work than you had to. I was able to remove and install my studs with only removing the wheel and brake caliper. There is enough room to tap them out the back of the fronts. Then on the backs you just remove the parking brake drum and pop out the adjuster and take them out that way.

** This was with whatever length stud comes with both the 15 and 20mm spacers of course. So if yours are quite a bit longer than these then it may not have been possible.

I tried that. It didn't work. Not enough room. The ARP studs are 3" long.

1st · 04-04-2013, 12:23 PM

Good work bro thanks for the knowledge.

Rusty · 04-04-2013, 12:31 PM

Now about the lug nuts. I wanted to use open ended lug nuts. So I cut the top off a lug nut that I was using. Comparing that to a Z1 open ended lug nut that I got with the ARP studs. I thought that the lug nut that I cut off would have more threads in it. I was wrong. Comparing the two. There is only about 3~4 threads differance between the two. So it would be easier to just buy the open ended lug nuts then to cut the tops off of the closed top ones.

kenchan · 04-04-2013, 01:14 PM

wow... baller golden studs and cutting tops off of lug nuts.

Rusty · 04-04-2013, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

wow... baller golden studs and cutting tops off of lug nuts.

LOL I only cut the one off to see. I'm using the open ended ones from Z1.

kenchan · 04-04-2013, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

LOL I only cut the one off to see. I'm using the open ended ones from Z1.

VDC_OFF · 04-04-2013, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitco39

Wow you went through alot more work than you had to. I was able to remove and install my studs with only removing the wheel and brake caliper. There is enough room to tap them out the back of the fronts. Then on the backs you just remove the parking brake drum and pop out the adjuster and take them out that way.

** This was with whatever length stud comes with both the 15 and 20mm spacers of course. So if yours are quite a bit longer than these then it may not have been possible.

yeah ARP's are 25mm longer than stock. You maybe be able to squeeze in a 20mm without pulling the hub in the rear. Nice breaker bar though, I actually had to pull out the suspension arms and axle to get my straight breaker bar to work. One thing I noticed is you NEVER want to let your caliper hang by the line. Get some bungee cables to hang them up.

Edit: Also dont forget to torque to specs. Hub bolts are 65 and axle nut is 133

Mitco39 · 04-04-2013, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VDC_OFF

One thing I noticed is you NEVER want to let your caliper hang by the line. Get some bungee cables to hang them up.

I used Zip ties when I did mine, and there is no way you would be able to fit anything larger than what comes with the 15mm spacer in the front, even that had to be tapped in to get it to slide into the hole.

scruffydog · 04-04-2013, 05:23 PM

thanks buddy! I need to do the exact same thing over the weekends!

04-04-2013, 12:07 PM	#5 (permalink)
Mitco39 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Edmonton Alberta Canada Posts: 2,089 Drives: 40th 370z Rep Power: 131	Wow you went through alot more work than you had to. I was able to remove and install my studs with only removing the wheel and brake caliper. There is enough room to tap them out the back of the fronts. Then on the backs you just remove the parking brake drum and pop out the adjuster and take them out that way. ** This was with whatever length stud comes with both the 15 and 20mm spacers of course. So if yours are quite a bit longer than these then it may not have been possible. wheee! and Natrix like this. __________________ 2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me 2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

04-04-2013, 12:23 PM	#8 (permalink)
1st A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: I 80 Biz U.S. 50 Posts: 1,708 Drives: Platinum Z Rep Power: 1615	Good work bro thanks for the knowledge. Rusty likes this.

04-04-2013, 01:14 PM	#10 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141520	wow... baller golden studs and cutting tops off of lug nuts. Themitchman3 likes this.

04-04-2013, 05:23 PM	#15 (permalink)
scruffydog A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,113 Drives: with his eyes close Rep Power: 717	thanks buddy! I need to do the exact same thing over the weekends! __________________ Magnetic Black 2010 370z Scruffydog's Journal

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