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Modshack, Thanks for the follow-up. This will be great for future DIYers. Is this your new setup (i.e., braided lines)? Thanks.
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#2 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Quote:
I already had some stainless line and a few fittings, so decided to make this change to remove any possible question from the equation. Note though, that my original install was still perfect after 3500 miles, so the original design is not necessarily flawed....There are just install and usage variables that might impact the reliability.. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Base Member
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Modshack
Instead of using the larger hose over the braided line you could use a smaller diameter hose cut to the circumference of the holes, split the hose length wise and install over the hole edges, may make a cleaner look. Just a suggestion. Got my B&M short shifter and goodridge brake lines in. Big difference. Have oil cooler and swaybars but have to make some time to get these done. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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The problem with that approach is that movement of the stainless line will saw away at the fabricated grommet. In my set-up the Hose buffers move with the lines so there is no potential abrasion....
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#7 (permalink) |
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Track Member
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Naive question (and lazy on my part), but
Does the sway bar move up or down when driving? I am going to assume that, since most installs have the hoses under the sway bar, it moves up and never down. Thanks. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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the part that is bolted to the subframe never moves up and down, just twists. The ends, that are mounted to the control arm move up and down. The twisting resistance is how the bar works to limit body roll. I would say that the area near the radius in the bar probably moves about 1/4th of what the ends move, so if the car has 4" of suspension travel (don't know the exact amount, just a hypothetical), it will deflect about an inch in either direction.
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#9 (permalink) |
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180 to 210 appears to be the ideal oil temperature. The oil never gets totally shut off and there is always some going and coming from the cooler. Depending where you live you could get overcooling and some have devised a partial hood to cover some of the elements. See modshack's first post and he goes into this in some detail.
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#10 (permalink) |
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Track Member
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I saw Modshack's 'hat'. I am just trying to understand the thermostat's engineering. You are correct as when I was playing around, I noticed that the cooler gets warm even though the oil temp has not reach 180. I thought mine was broken (i.e., oil flows even though temp is way below 180.
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#11 (permalink) |
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Base Member
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For guys in the northern parts and have problems with low oil temps you may try a 200 deg thermostat. In south Fl we don't have that problem of low oil temps.
The 200 deg thermostat will bypass most of the oil until temps reach 200deg then fully open to the oil cooler. Just a thought. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Race Parts Wholesale will customize their standard 180 degree thermostatic plate to 200 degrees on request (for a fee of course).
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#15 (permalink) |
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My understanding is that with thermostatic sandwich plates (Mocal) flow below the temp setting i.e. 180 is 90/10 meaning the flow through the sandwich to the oil cooler is 10% of max or 90% restricted. As temps climb above 180 the ratio changes and thus more oil is allowed to enter the oil cooler. I opted to scratch build my oil cooler and the process was quite easy with the help of this and Vipors DIY. Of note, I did prefill my oil cooler just prior to final intall
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