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DIY: Oil Cooler Installation on a Nismo (Damper Included!) - vipor

The bolts that you will need are M6 - 1.00 They are common on ALL Nissan vehicles. They are the usual 10mm bolt.

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Old 02-05-2010, 11:19 AM   #31 (permalink)
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The bolts that you will need are M6 - 1.00

They are common on ALL Nissan vehicles. They are the usual 10mm bolt.
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Old 02-05-2010, 11:25 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustin@Z1 View Post
The bolts that you will need are M6 - 1.00

They are common on ALL Nissan vehicles. They are the usual 10mm bolt.
Thank ya sir!
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Old 02-05-2010, 12:53 PM   #33 (permalink)
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thank you for your help
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Old 02-05-2010, 01:14 PM   #34 (permalink)
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any way to route those oil hoses over the sways? - nice writeup dude you rock

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Old 02-05-2010, 01:21 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Possibly, but you would have to go over the aluminum rail and probably use straight fittings coming off the sandwich plate.

Best pic showing the route:
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Old 02-05-2010, 01:58 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shabarivas View Post
any way to route those oil hoses over the sways?
I was contemplating that too, but here's the issue.

In this picture Vipor's suspension is completely unloaded, so the sway bar is in the lowest position it can get. You could run it up and over by rotating the filter adapter plate 90 degrees, using 45 degree fittings, but you would have to estimate the compression limit of the spring to find out how high the sway bar could potentially go.
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Old 02-05-2010, 03:03 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks View Post
I was contemplating that too, but here's the issue.

In this picture Vipor's suspension is completely unloaded, so the sway bar is in the lowest position it can get. You could run it up and over by rotating the filter adapter plate 90 degrees, using 45 degree fittings, but you would have to estimate the compression limit of the spring to find out how high the sway bar could potentially go.
Good explanation. We considered sway bar movement when routing the hoses and figured below the bar was the safest (and easiest thankfully) way to go.
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Old 02-08-2010, 08:42 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Update after my weekend at the track:

It was fairly cool most of the time, with temps reaching 50+ on Saturday. Even under very aggressive driving staying in the 4-7k rpm range my oil temp had trouble getting to 220 and I did actually see 225 once. All in all, I'm very glad I installed my cooler before I went to the track.

There was another 370Z (T/S) at the track as well and I didn't hear from him that he had any problems with his Z. He actually still had dealer plates on the car. I don't believe he was as hard on his car though as I didn't see him doing very much passing, while I passed him at least a few times.
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:14 AM   #39 (permalink)
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I wonder how the 19-row will work out in some higher temps.
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:16 AM   #40 (permalink)
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I'll find out come May I think. Depends on when I can budget my next event.
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:17 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by vipor View Post
I'll find out come May I think. Depends on when I can budget my next event.
I have no budget, just a credit card.

I have a feeling you'll probably need a bigger core this summer.
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Old 02-18-2010, 04:17 PM   #42 (permalink)
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might be a stupid question.

But is there a dedicated "feed" line and "return" line?
Or it doesn't matter?
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Old 02-18-2010, 04:38 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abakja1 View Post
might be a stupid question.

But is there a dedicated "feed" line and "return" line?
Or it doesn't matter?
Doesn't matter at all.
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Old 02-18-2010, 06:46 PM   #44 (permalink)
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awesome writeup. since you have the fittings on the top of the cooler, i assume you will leave that 1-1.5qt inside during an oil change. will this be a problem for 5k mile OCI?
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Old 02-18-2010, 10:42 PM   #45 (permalink)
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I'll be changing mine at 5k intervals more than likely (depending on track time) and dropping the cooler every 3rd change. That should put it at over a year per flush.

There has also been talk about using compressed air to just push the oil through the system and out. Merely disconnect both fittings from the sandwich plate, throw one hose in a bucket (preferably with a lid and a hole in it) and blow in the other.
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