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Oil cooler installation

I don't have oil tempurature issues, as I don't drive my Z hard or on the track. However, I read that an oil cooler is a good way to extend

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Old 11-18-2009, 04:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Oil cooler installation

I don't have oil tempurature issues, as I don't drive my Z hard or on the track. However, I read that an oil cooler is a good way to extend the life of the car.

My Question:

Is an oil cooler difficult to install? I am fairly handy and have resources to help me if things become "complicated". An oil cooler seems like a good idea...is it something that a Z owner should do?

Opinions are appreciated...thanks!
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Old 11-18-2009, 05:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Look in the DIY section.
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Old 11-18-2009, 05:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by semtex View Post
Look in the DIY section.
yep, Modshack has a DIY oil cooler setup there. It is very easy to do.
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Old 11-18-2009, 06:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Here we go again.....

Dont forget about the warranty issue/concern!
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Old 11-18-2009, 06:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You dont need one. Save yourself the time and money.
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Old 11-20-2009, 12:27 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RCZ View Post
You dont need one. Save yourself the time and money.
For everyday driving it is totally none essential. And in the winter this could actually work against you causing the oil to never reach the proper operating temp. Save your money and your warranty and just keep it stock for now.

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Old 11-20-2009, 12:31 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sminky63 View Post
I don't have oil tempurature issues, as I don't drive my Z hard or on the track. However, I read that an oil cooler is a good way to extend the life of the car.
if you don't track your car, you don't need the cooler. Just use a good synthetic oil (REDLINE, Amsoil, RP etc) and you'll be fine. You may spend the money in other mods which will give you HP increase (i.e. Exhaust, intake, HFC etc).
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Old 11-20-2009, 01:15 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AK370Z View Post
if you don't track your car, you don't need the cooler. Just use a good synthetic oil (REDLINE, Amsoil, RP etc) and you'll be fine. You may spend the money in other mods which will give you HP increase (i.e. Exhaust, intake, HFC etc).
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Old 11-20-2009, 09:10 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by avitech View Post
For everyday driving it is totally none essential. And in the winter this could actually work against you causing the oil to never reach the proper operating temp. Save your money and your warranty and just keep it stock for now.

+1 On the over-cooling. I have the Stillen track cooler with a Mocal 180 degree thermostatic sandwich plate and it is a real problem heating up in the winter. On cold days I have to take painters tape and cover my front grill (not very pretty...).

However, I do track my car so I can live with it.
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Old 11-20-2009, 09:12 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ResIpsa View Post
+1 On the over-cooling. I have the Stillen track cooler with a Mocal 180 degree thermostatic sandwich plate and it is a real problem heating up in the winter. On cold days I have to take painters tape and cover my front grill (not very pretty...).

However, I do track my car so I can live with it.
The thermo plate is not working properly?
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Old 11-20-2009, 09:33 AM   #11 (permalink)
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The thermo plate is not working properly?
I was confused about this too until I researched it. Thermo plates are ALWAYS circulating some oil. This is to avoid the thermal shock of a Thermostat opening fully at 180 degrees into a cold cooler core. As the temp hits the trigger point More oil goes to the plate and less through the bypass (which is naturally the path of least resistance). So basically, the cooler is always functioning at some level, just more so when the oil is hot and more fluid is diverted through it as determined by the thermostat. This is why a cooler starts getting warm (with a thermostat) as soon as the engine is started, and why the oil may not get up to temp in cold situations. This reinforces the need to properly size the cooler. More is not better unless you have track needs like Resipsa and then you have to make some special accommodations (blocking part of ther core) for normal street use.. Putting a Large "race" cooler on a car with no thermostat would be problematic in cooler climes.
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Old 11-20-2009, 09:37 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Plus you've added another quart or so of oil to get heated up. If all you are doing is short drives, you may never see enough heat for optimum oil temperatures.
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Old 11-20-2009, 01:19 PM   #13 (permalink)
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My car always hovered close to the limp-mode temps on freeways. As soon as I get her back, I may install Modshack's unit.
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Old 11-20-2009, 01:48 PM   #14 (permalink)
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My car always hovered close to the limp-mode temps on freeways. As soon as I get her back, I may install Modshack's unit.
That shouldn't have been the case (near 280 degrees on the street) but may have been part of your engine issues. See how the new one is...I'm betting it will be much better!
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Old 11-20-2009, 02:24 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Modshack View Post
I was confused about this too until I researched it. Thermo plates are ALWAYS circulating some oil. This is to avoid the thermal shock of a Thermostat opening fully at 180 degrees into a cold cooler core. As the temp hits the trigger point More oil goes to the plate and less through the bypass (which is naturally the path of least resistance). So basically, the cooler is always functioning at some level, just more so when the oil is hot and more fluid is diverted through it as determined by the thermostat. This is why a cooler starts getting warm (with a thermostat) as soon as the engine is started, and why the oil may not get up to temp in cold situations. This reinforces the need to properly size the cooler. More is not better unless you have track needs like Resipsa and then you have to make some special accommodations (blocking part of ther core) for normal street use.. Putting a Large "race" cooler on a car with no thermostat would be problematic in cooler climes.
Do you think that using a 210 degree thermostat would help? In theory it should be more closed at temperatures approaching 180 degrees and allow the oil to heat up a little faster.
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