DIY: Oil Cooler Installation on a Nismo (Damper Included!) - vipor

vipor · 04-06-2010, 08:19 AM

I do what I can

JimZ · 04-17-2010, 02:55 PM

Awesome DIY. The comment later about mounting lines above the sway bar is a little inaccurate as when the suspension is unloaded the sway bar is actually in it's most superior or highest position. My plan at this point is to mount above the sway but will see with the initial fitting/sizing. Again, wouldn't attempt this without this DIY.

JimZ · 04-18-2010, 09:30 PM

Well I did my oil cooler installation today...this DIY by Vipor was invaluable. A few comments about what I did different and the results: I used a Setrab series 6, 25 row and had no issues with contact at the top and consequently did not have to modify the cooler at all. I went with Aeroquip stainless steel AQP hose instead of the Socketless. I did find that trying to go straight off the Mocal oil sandwich plate and thereby routing the hoses above the sway bar was not possible so I went with 90 deg Aeroquip fittings. The stainless AQP hose does cause contact with the removable underbody protector panel but this is quite mild and does not interfere with it's placement. Overall a relatively easy DIY make significantly easier because of the work by Vipor.

vipor · 04-19-2010, 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimZ

Well I did my oil cooler installation today...this DIY by Vipor was invaluable. A few comments about what I did different and the results: I used a Setrab series 6, 25 row and had no issues with contact at the top and consequently did not have to modify the cooler at all. I went with Aeroquip stainless steel AQP hose instead of the Socketless. I did find that trying to go straight off the Mocal oil sandwich plate and thereby routing the hoses above the sway bar was not possible so I went with 90 deg Aeroquip fittings. The stainless AQP hose does cause contact with the removable underbody protector panel but this is quite mild and does not interfere with it's placement. Overall a relatively easy DIY make significantly easier because of the work by Vipor.

Very glad I could help you out and also that you got it done with pretty much no issues.

You might want to look into some sort of wrap for the stainless lines however. After a lot of driving (and rubbing) I think you'll find that they'll start wearing away at your splash guard/underbody cover.

JimZ · 04-19-2010, 10:24 AM

Yeah, used 3/4 heater hose split with clamps throughout and worked well. I will say that fitting the adapters to the AQP hose is a bitch....eat your wheaties first!

JimZ · 04-19-2010, 10:26 AM

By adaptors I mean fittings

vipor · 04-19-2010, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimZ

Yeah, used 3/4 heater hose split with clamps throughout and worked well. I will say that fitting the adapters to the AQP hose is a bitch....eat your wheaties first!

My and my brother just took turns working the hose on the fitting. Makes your hand cramp.

JSBZ · 04-25-2010, 06:32 PM

Great write up.
I am preparing to do the cooler install but with a 34 row core. Bumper is off; just waiting for parts.

Billy830 · 04-25-2010, 09:12 PM

Vipor
You mentioned your oil temps being very low and outside temps being low.
Are you not concened about over cooling. Oil viscosity is dependant upon temperature. I would think that the oil being too cool you are not getting proper lubrication as it is too thick. The same for over temp on oil the oil becomes to thin and starts breaking down quicker. For me the optimum oil temps would be between 220 and 240 this is where the oil has its best shear factor for best lubrication properties.

Tell straight up if I am on the right path with this
Bill

cab83_750 · 04-25-2010, 11:56 PM

Ideal oil temperature has been debated here many many times. I have never entered my 'opinion' ; however, having operated oil-cooled engines for the longest time, let me share my guideline that I use (see below)

"As suggested by Bruce Anderson, Porsche guru and author of Porsche 911 Performance Handbook, the optimal temperature range for the Porsche 911 oil-cooled engine is 180ºF to 220ºF. Also, according to Anderson, oil temperatures greater than 230ºF are potentially damaging. Yet, the old loop-style coolers started their thermostatically controlled cooling at 182ºF and later the electric fan coolers started at
244ºF! Again, some “experts” have stated that as material design improvements were made, like synthetic oils, engine parts, and gaskets, engine oil temperature became slightly less critical. However, most “experts” agree that cooler oil is better for engine longevity as long as the engine is operating at an efficient temperature of 200ºF."

I am not attempting to compare the Z to the Porsche; I am merely attempting to state what I have using as a guideline for my 'oil temperature range.'

vipor · 04-26-2010, 09:02 AM

My car sits at the 180° mark while cruising on the highway, even on 80°+ days. Put me in some traffic and I'll creep up to the 210° mark. I find those temps completely acceptable, regardless of what people are saying ideal temps are. When I'm on the track and pushing it the temps will be more in the range you guys are talking about.

Update 04/26/10
I pulled the front bumper off this weekend to work on my headlights and had a chance to inspect the front half (cooler side) of my install.

There were no signs of rubbing or wear, and the hose was still on completely. It did look like there was any tension pulling on anything, and there were no signs of sweating or seeping. All and all I'm still very pleased.

I'll be changing my oil in the next few days and I'll give the sandwich plate and fittings there a good look.

JimZ · 04-26-2010, 09:45 AM

I'm having the same results as Vipor. Used his technique in terms of routing and so far so good.

vipor · 05-25-2010, 12:23 PM

So I changed my oil a couple weeks ago and I really took a good look at things.

NOT ONE ISSUE.

I had inspected the cooler side when I did my headlights, and now that I got under my car I could inspect the plate and those fittings.

Still no leaks, wear, seeping, or sweating.

Switched to RedLine too

Cell · 08-25-2010, 02:44 PM

When you do your oil change, how do you remove all the oil out of the oil cooler itself?

vipor · 08-25-2010, 07:06 PM

I've done 2 changes since the install and I've just left the oil cooler alone. The next change at 25K will involve a flush using an air compressor.

04-06-2010, 08:19 AM	#61 (permalink)
vipor A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Euless, TX [ DFW ] Age: 41 Posts: 13,531 Drives: Nismo 09-0183 QAB Rep Power: 48	I do what I can __________________ 2009 NISMO # 0193 \| QAB \| Albums! \| 05.04.10 (Dynojet) 291.94hp/248.28tq Oil Cooler (DIY) \| Custom Headlights \| GTSPEC Braces \| F.I. Long Tube Headers

04-25-2010, 09:12 PM	#69 (permalink)
Billy830 Base Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Port Saint Lucie Fl. Age: 77 Posts: 31 Drives: 370Z Mag Black 6sp m Rep Power: 15	Oil Temps after install Vipor You mentioned your oil temps being very low and outside temps being low. Are you not concened about over cooling. Oil viscosity is dependant upon temperature. I would think that the oil being too cool you are not getting proper lubrication as it is too thick. The same for over temp on oil the oil becomes to thin and starts breaking down quicker. For me the optimum oil temps would be between 220 and 240 this is where the oil has its best shear factor for best lubrication properties. Tell straight up if I am on the right path with this Bill

04-25-2010, 11:56 PM	#70 (permalink)
cab83_750 Track Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: CA Posts: 887 Drives: 09 NISSAN 370Z Rep Power: 417	Ideal oil temperature has been debated here many many times. I have never entered my 'opinion' ; however, having operated oil-cooled engines for the longest time, let me share my guideline that I use (see below) "As suggested by Bruce Anderson, Porsche guru and author of Porsche 911 Performance Handbook, the optimal temperature range for the Porsche 911 oil-cooled engine is 180ºF to 220ºF. Also, according to Anderson, oil temperatures greater than 230ºF are potentially damaging. Yet, the old loop-style coolers started their thermostatically controlled cooling at 182ºF and later the electric fan coolers started at 244ºF! Again, some “experts” have stated that as material design improvements were made, like synthetic oils, engine parts, and gaskets, engine oil temperature became slightly less critical. However, most “experts” agree that cooler oil is better for engine longevity as long as the engine is operating at an efficient temperature of 200ºF." I am not attempting to compare the Z to the Porsche; I am merely attempting to state what I have using as a guideline for my 'oil temperature range.' Last edited by cab83_750; 04-26-2010 at 12:09 AM.

04-26-2010, 09:02 AM	#71 (permalink)
vipor A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Euless, TX [ DFW ] Age: 41 Posts: 13,531 Drives: Nismo 09-0183 QAB Rep Power: 48	My car sits at the 180° mark while cruising on the highway, even on 80°+ days. Put me in some traffic and I'll creep up to the 210° mark. I find those temps completely acceptable, regardless of what people are saying ideal temps are. When I'm on the track and pushing it the temps will be more in the range you guys are talking about. Update 04/26/10 I pulled the front bumper off this weekend to work on my headlights and had a chance to inspect the front half (cooler side) of my install. There were no signs of rubbing or wear, and the hose was still on completely. It did look like there was any tension pulling on anything, and there were no signs of sweating or seeping. All and all I'm still very pleased. I'll be changing my oil in the next few days and I'll give the sandwich plate and fittings there a good look. __________________ 2009 NISMO # 0193 \| QAB \| Albums! \| 05.04.10 (Dynojet) 291.94hp/248.28tq Oil Cooler (DIY) \| Custom Headlights \| GTSPEC Braces \| F.I. Long Tube Headers

05-25-2010, 12:23 PM	#73 (permalink)
vipor A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Euless, TX [ DFW ] Age: 41 Posts: 13,531 Drives: Nismo 09-0183 QAB Rep Power: 48	So I changed my oil a couple weeks ago and I really took a good look at things. NOT ONE ISSUE. I had inspected the cooler side when I did my headlights, and now that I got under my car I could inspect the plate and those fittings. Still no leaks, wear, seeping, or sweating. Switched to RedLine too __________________ 2009 NISMO # 0193 \| QAB \| Albums! \| 05.04.10 (Dynojet) 291.94hp/248.28tq Oil Cooler (DIY) \| Custom Headlights \| GTSPEC Braces \| F.I. Long Tube Headers

04-17-2010, 02:55 PM	#62 (permalink)
JimZ Base Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Ft. Worth, TX Posts: 20 Drives: 2009 370Z NISMO 0357 Rep Power: 15	Awesome DIY. The comment later about mounting lines above the sway bar is a little inaccurate as when the suspension is unloaded the sway bar is actually in it's most superior or highest position. My plan at this point is to mount above the sway but will see with the initial fitting/sizing. Again, wouldn't attempt this without this DIY.

04-18-2010, 09:30 PM	#63 (permalink)
JimZ Base Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Ft. Worth, TX Posts: 20 Drives: 2009 370Z NISMO 0357 Rep Power: 15	Well I did my oil cooler installation today...this DIY by Vipor was invaluable. A few comments about what I did different and the results: I used a Setrab series 6, 25 row and had no issues with contact at the top and consequently did not have to modify the cooler at all. I went with Aeroquip stainless steel AQP hose instead of the Socketless. I did find that trying to go straight off the Mocal oil sandwich plate and thereby routing the hoses above the sway bar was not possible so I went with 90 deg Aeroquip fittings. The stainless AQP hose does cause contact with the removable underbody protector panel but this is quite mild and does not interfere with it's placement. Overall a relatively easy DIY make significantly easier because of the work by Vipor.

04-19-2010, 10:24 AM	#65 (permalink)
JimZ Base Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Ft. Worth, TX Posts: 20 Drives: 2009 370Z NISMO 0357 Rep Power: 15	Yeah, used 3/4 heater hose split with clamps throughout and worked well. I will say that fitting the adapters to the AQP hose is a bitch....eat your wheaties first!

04-19-2010, 10:26 AM	#66 (permalink)
JimZ Base Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Ft. Worth, TX Posts: 20 Drives: 2009 370Z NISMO 0357 Rep Power: 15	By adaptors I mean fittings

04-25-2010, 06:32 PM	#68 (permalink)
JSBZ Base Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 56 Drives: 09 370Z T/S 6MT Rep Power: 15	Great write up. I am preparing to do the cooler install but with a 34 row core. Bumper is off; just waiting for parts.

04-26-2010, 09:45 AM	#72 (permalink)
JimZ Base Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Ft. Worth, TX Posts: 20 Drives: 2009 370Z NISMO 0357 Rep Power: 15	I'm having the same results as Vipor. Used his technique in terms of routing and so far so good.

08-25-2010, 02:44 PM	#74 (permalink)
Cell A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Chicago Posts: 1,449 Drives: A Garbage Truck Rep Power: 21	When you do your oil change, how do you remove all the oil out of the oil cooler itself? Last edited by Cell; 08-25-2010 at 03:40 PM.

08-25-2010, 07:06 PM	#75 (permalink)
vipor A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Euless, TX [ DFW ] Age: 41 Posts: 13,531 Drives: Nismo 09-0183 QAB Rep Power: 48	I've done 2 changes since the install and I've just left the oil cooler alone. The next change at 25K will involve a flush using an air compressor. __________________ 2009 NISMO # 0193 \| QAB \| Albums! \| 05.04.10 (Dynojet) 291.94hp/248.28tq Oil Cooler (DIY) \| Custom Headlights \| GTSPEC Braces \| F.I. Long Tube Headers

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