EBC Brake Pad Bedding procedures?

Rangerz

Got this off of the EBC website. Do you guys follow this to letter or do you do something different? Seems like a awful lot of miles to drive before the pads are considered bedded. Looking at Yellow Stuff Pads in the spring and just curious.

9. Bedding in EBC pads
In Street use situations …
Bedding in when the red EBC surface coating (marked on the pads as Brake In) is applied.
Best procedure is to drive gently avoiding harsh braking unless in an emergency for first 100 miles. In the second 100 miles (up to 200) you can use gently increasing brake pressures when using the brakes.
Only after 200 miles urban driving (not 200 miles on a freeway where brakes are almost unused) should you attempt to apply heavy load and heat to the brakes. To do this final bedding on a QUIET ROAD in safe traffic apply the brakes and slow from 60 to 10 MPH five times in a row. Then drive slowly for a few minutes if safe to do so to allow the brakes to cool. Try to avoid coming to a rest whilst the brakes are heated.
A smell may be noticed from the warm brakes, this is normal. Repeat this procedure a second time after the brakes have TOTALLY cooled down. EBC pads get better with miles. Even after this bed in procedure it can take up to 1500 miles before the pads are at their best. In the meantime the pads will be good and safe but true potential not realised. EBC makes performance pads that last, they do not bed in within 5 minutes driving. Noises will be more likely during the first 1000-1500 miles use whilst this chemical bedding takes place.

NEVER attempt to sand or scotchbrite brake pads to assist it bedding in or noise reduction,this will only make things worse by taking the pads "Off-Flat" and require hundreds of miles driving to seat them again during which time the brakes will feel very dull. The only way to seat pads is against the rotor they will be used on and by following our bedding recommendation.

Bedding in for trackday or race use …
We remind you there is NO WARRANTY on any EBC product for race use due to the very varying conditions that can be seen. However, care bedding pads in and monitoring wear will get the best from our products.
Most EBC pads including Yellow range pads now have the brake in coating. If possible and using a street based car, fit the pads before the race use and bed in as above for street use. Try to get 200-300 miles urban driving on the pads before racing them. If this is NOT possible and you fit at the track bed like this.
Drive two laps steadily applying the brakes every few seconds and then coast for a full lap without any unnecessary braking to allow pads and rotors to cool down. Drive a third lap applying the brakes slightly harder each time and again drive a cooldown lap. Do NOT pull up and park the car with the brakes red hot, try to let them cool as much as possible before coming to a rest. It is also important to understand that the pads must be geometrically matched to the rotor (flat and parallel) before they will bed in chemically. If you do the above bed in and get violent fade first use you MUST repeat the bedding procedure. We get lots of new customers calling in saying my brakes have faded and when they send a digital the pad is only touching on 70-80% of its surface area. Fade early in a pads life is almost a good thing. It is called GREEN fade and will disappear so if you suffer Green fade (you will notice this by smell), you are on the right path and this is not a negative. If you are getting fade after 20 laps and the pads are part worn, then something else needs looking into such as material choice, bleeding of the system, driving style etc …

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AZP Installs

Interesting, I'm not a big fan of EBC so we have never really looked at their bedding procedure. It does make sense and from what I've been told you really need to follow their recommendations. We primarily use Hawk and Stoptech pads and our procedure is to basically do about (10) 60-10mph runs and then drive for another 3-5 min with little to no braking. Then allow them to cool for 45 min before driving on them again.

-mike

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Rangerz

Thanks for the reply. What you posted above is what I was interested in. Seems like a pretty prolonged bedding procedure if you follow the instructions EBC has. I'm all about being safe especially when it comes to breaks working properly or not. Just curious if those that track there 'Z' had a different "SAFE" procedure they use to bed pads in.

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BuckeyeZ

I use EBC YellowStuff pads for the track and have been happy with them. I don't follow their bed-in procedure but do something more like AZP mentions. Never had a problem with them.

I don't use these pads on the street except to drive to and from the track.

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cossie1600

The best way to bed in track pads is to smoke them from 3 or 4 100-0 stops, cool them down and park it overnight. If you do it right, you will basically have no brakes and you will smell pads. It sounds stupid to do, but you really should do it right to get maximum life out of the pads. It would also help eliminate pad deposits. If you don't do it right, you will notice how fast you will lose your brake pedal on your first session at the track. After it cools down, your brakes will feel 10x better for the second session.

AZP Installs

Only issue with this is unless you rented the track for yourself you aren't going to be able to find a way to do 100-0 safely in the paddock or on track. (and you shouldn't stop completely on smoking hot brakes)

-mike

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ValidusVentus

Rewritten for accuracy/clarity.

The reason they say to bed in the pads initially (right after purchase) very slowly over the next couple hundred miles is not really bedding them in. They say this (and rightfully so) to ensure that the pads mate properly to the rotors -that is, the entire surface of the pad is in contact with the rotor surface- before you use your brakes hard. If you do any hard braking when your pads are not mated to your rotors only part of the pad surface is touching but you are demanding the same amount of friction from a greatly reduced surface area .... you are going to get this portion of the pads and rotors extremely hot while the untouched surfaces do not heat. This can be all sorts of bad. This is especially important if keeping the same rotors and just changing out your pads. Once this mating process is complete you can then "bed in" your pads/rotors. You should be able to determine this by looking at your rotors directly after some medium braking, if the rotor still has concentric darker stripes of pad material mixed with areas of no material you still need to mate the pads to the rotors.

For bed in, it does depend on your brake pad material - its operating temp range and Mu. Begin by warming your brakes with some light to medium braking so as to not heat shock any of the brake system. Then, generally about 8 80-20mph consecutive braking (at about 8/10ths of your braking threshold) should be good for a track/street pad (two fewer for a street pad); and you, with a little work, should be able to find a place to do this, perhaps late at night on an empty highway. After you have done this, quickly find a place to drive around slowly for a bit to allow the brake system to cool somewhat gradually, then stop the car, leaving the brakes off -including parking brake- and let it sit for 20 minutes or so. Do not immediately stop the car after the procedure. If your absolutely have to stop; come to your stop and immediately/continuously roll the car back and forth at least one wheel rotation until you may move again. Otherwise you run the risk of welding your pads to your rotors or at the very least causing uneven pad deposits on your rotors. Bedding your pads chemically bonds the pad material more effectively, giving it better wear and consistency properties.

Pads have two basic methods of operation: abrasion and "friction". Street pads almost always operate in the abrasion mode and abrade through the pad and rotor material, just the two surfaces rubbing and wearing against each other. Track pads are designed to operate most effectively in the "friction" mode. This is where a consistent layer of pad material has been deposited on the rotor surface (due to heat) and the pad material on the rotor and the pad itself are what is rubbing against each other. This mode provides both better stopping power and linearity than the abrasion mode and doesn't directly wear the rotor surface. Thing is, if you run a track or track/street pad on the street and constantly operate your pads in the abrasion mode you will be causing greatly increased wear on your rotors than you would with a street pad due to the higher coefficient of friction (Mu) of the pads.

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6MT

We've always called this burnishing. And it is a good idea when replacing pads and machining rotors. From new though...?

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Andrew

2009 370Z Sport/Touring 6MT sold
2013 Honda Civic Si coupe D/D

Rangerz

[\QUOTE]



Oh, ideally, dont drive too fast after you perform the bed in process to allow your pads and rotors to cool slowly and as stated in other posts don't come to a stop for any length of time, if you have to, release the brakes and roll back and forth.[/QUOTE]

This brings up another question. If you have break cooling ducts would it be wise to block those off during the bedding procedure? Or just do a few more runs I guess.

Good info guys

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DEpointfive0

Shouldn't effect much in the bedding in procedure

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conmam

EBC Yelllowstuff. Awesome pads. Ran on my Infiniti QX50 with OEM size calipers and rotors and almost all I have to say are good things about them. They are very good at cold and are monstrous as they get hotter and hotter. My new Michelin PSS almost went ice from 135 mph to 65 mph during real hard braking. My QX50 weights about 4000 lbs.

OEM Nissan pads are truly junky, sorry to say that. Bought my car brand new and started driving spirited around 1000 miles. Brake pulsation began to occur at around 3200 miles since OEM pads compound could not handle high temperature during repeated hard braking. Therefore, I can see that they started to transfer unwanted deposit into my front rotors and caused this brake juddering. The juddering is much more severe under repeated braking. When the car got to about 10K miles, I was fed up to my neck so I converted to EBC front and rear slotted discs with EBC Yelllowstuff pads all around. Cost around $470.00 total....

I now have over 12K miles on them and the brakes feels just as smooth as new. I smoked my brakes a few times because stock brake size is too small but the pads never ever faded and there is absolutely no stupid pulsations or judder so far !!!

The only thing I observed are 2 things:

1) These pads are very dusty.
2) They will wear in rotors just like BMW, Porsche, Mercedes, Jaguar, Maserati and Audi

But if this is the price to pay for superior braking, I have absolutely no issues with that. I personally never ever resurface rotors anyway so this works out perfectly for me.

Rusty

I like the Yellowstuff pads for DDing. I have the pads on my Grand Cherokee, and Power Wagon. On the Jeep, they do dust. But I haven't seen as much dust on the truck. I have about 16 trackdays with them on the Nismo. The dust doesn't stick to the rims on the Nismo because of the cooling ducts.

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conmam

Mine is real dusty on the front rims and some on the rear rims as well. I will see how the performance holds up as pads and rotors wear out. So far real good. This is the best alternative other than upgrading my QX50 to the Akebono system because doing so would require me to switch to different wheels, something like the Q50 OEM sport wheels.... More money, not worth it for just 340 hp and a 4000 lbs crossover. The current set up is good enough for street and spirited canyon driving...

Rusty

The pads work GREAT on the Power Wagon. It has 35" tires, weights 8,000 lbs, and I was towing a 10,000 lbs camper before I traded the camper in for a motorhome.

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