Horrible ride quality and can't figure out why

OptionZero

this is an absolute must read as it explains why true type rears require roughly half the spring rate as non-true/divorced type

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OptionZero

reading this thread is making my head hurt

There's no way -2 camber the cause of "horrible ride quality." I have Aragosta coils with 14/10 rates (middle settings all around), full SPL arms, factory bushings, and 20 inch wheels, my ride quality is absolutely fine.

I've had other people, non Z people drive and ride in the car, zero complaints. Its firmer than stock but bumps and road imperfections are well managed. This is with street specs running much lower than a track car would, as its geared towards appearance . . . and its still fine

Refer to the factory specs here and the rear camber isn't even off by that much:
Stock alignment specs?

There is no way to adjust front anything without adjustable arms. There is minimal adjustment in the rear. For optimal alignment, you need all three rear arms and a competent alignment tech

I don't know how much reading you did, clearly not enough. I personally have posted endlessly that that anyone with coilovers MUST get adjustable arms, with the SPL ones most recommended because they never break, they're easy to adjust ON CAR, and they have manufacturer support.

What i do not see addressed in this thread are your tires. What tires are you running, what size, and what is the condition?

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Spooler

He was talking about the car darting. Not really ride quality. Excessive negative camber causing tramlining to be worse. I knew what he was talking about. Guess you didn't pick it up. Chill out, he is trying to learn.

Ralphatron

FWIW, I noticed my car came from the factory with some strange findings...

I picked it up from a dealer with only 7 miles on it so I doubt they messed with it, BUT....

1. The front sway bar studs were over torqued and borderline stripped, because when I removed the nuts on one side, they were VERY loose. Reinstalling the sway caused them to fully strip and I had to drill them out and replace them with bolts.

2. the bolt that goes through the midlink on one side of the car was oddly deformed in a way I've never seen before. Here it is compared to the one from the other side for you guys to scratch your heads at...

Attached Images

bolts.jpeg (214.2 KB, 47 views)

Rusty

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Spooler

That bolt was way over tightened so bad it stretched. WTH

Ralphatron

So far this is my plan of action...

- switch back over to true rear coilovers
- get SPL front upper control arms
- get SPL rear toe Arms
- replace Z1 camber arms with SPL camber arms
- new tires
- another alignment
- stop complaining

I know its a super debatable topic, but are my upper strut mount studs really at risk with true rear setup? They're welded to the chassis and if they ever snapped or stripped, I feel like I'd be ******. I also can't imagine theres a noticeable difference in handling even though that's the common rumor but still curious what you guys have to say about it.

OptionZero

There’s no performance difference
If none of the people that beat their true types at the track have ever experienced damage, then I doubt anything you’re doing will

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cv129

True type makes for easier spring rate calc and adjustment precision.
If math is done correctly, and shocks and springs properly matched, there’s no handling difference.

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Spooler

Just make sure when you set your ride height the sway bars are disconnected. You really need to have the car corner balanced for best result.

Ralphatron

hmm... curious why having them connected would affect height adjustment? I usually disconnect, or make sure both sides are evenly loaded/unloaded when working on the suspension because of unwanted tension if I didn't, but not sure why it would matter when adjusting the height? Is this assuming that the endlinks are adjustable (im still on stock endlinks for now)

Spooler

Because I didn't when I did mine. I then took it to be corner balanced. Put the car on the scales it looked close. Disconnected the swaybar endlinks. It was way out on the scales. Ride height changed also.

Ralphatron

@OptionZero @Spooler and @Rusty (and whoever else wants to chime in)...

Is there a reason to spend the extra cash on the billet versions of the SPL arms? Or will the regular titanium tube style versions suffice?

Spooler

The regular will suffice. That is what I have.

Ralphatron

I really appreciate all the help!