Horrible ride quality and can't figure out why

OptionZero

I dunno how many times i gotta tell people not to get Z1 and to get the ******* SPLs

do it right the first time or don't do it

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Ralphatron

I've got 5k swifts on the true rear kit. I'm fully aware of how the wheel rate is about .5 to 1 on a Z and the oem springs are basically double the rate for the same feel as a true rear strut spring.



yeah, I was hoping to hear something like this. the front and rear toe is in range of manufacturers specs, and camber is only off by tenths of a degree which makes it hard to believe just that alone would cause so much instability over regular street imperfections. I'm just not experienced enough to be confident that its just the alignment at fault here. But, then I'm also not sure if you guys that are running the aragostas (which are almost 3 times the price) is the reason you aren't complaining about ride quality. But BC is super popular in the community so I also can't imagine they are the reason either.

I'm running stock tires all around. Got the car brand new back in June and I still only have 3k miles on it lol. BUT..... since I spent a ton of time trying to settle on a setup I liked, I drove around without an alignment enough to chew my tread down pretttttty bad. I know I know, but in a way I'm almost glad I'll be able to get rid of these crap tires soon. Here's the current status:

Stock Bridgestone Potenzas
Front: 245/40/19 @ 40-50% tread and 32psi
Rear: 275/35/19 @ 10-15% tread and 34psi


EDIT: yes, as Spooler pointed out, the instability im talking about is mostly darting and tramlining where the car kind of jolts to the side following a weird bump in the road or going over painted lettering that's slightly raised on the road will even cause me to grip the wheel hard to maintain a straight drive which blows my mind. I may actually go snap some pics of some bumps I know cause this pretty badly to give you guys an idea of what I mean. This is all at normal driving speeds too, nothing crazy.

yup, fully aware of this. My oem kit I currently have on is at 8k that came with the bc kit, and the true rear kit I had before this was using a 5k swift.

I'll admit I was in a rush to get something to allow me to align the car (its my dd) and couldn't really understand just by quickly skimming the descriptions, photos, and feedback why there would actually be a difference. Clearly I was wrong. Lesson learned.

OptionZero

I think you learned a lesson or two about suspension components, but haven't we identified the problem right here?

Dead tires are going to have a MUCH greater affect than one degree or less of camber of fractions of a degree in toe

aint no coilovers, arms, or alignment thats gonna affect your car more than not having tread

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Ralphatron

yeah I honestly have no idea how it could have happened, especially from the factory. surprisingly it caused no issues at all when it was installed, just super ******* weird when I saw it

I really really really hope this is what it is, or at least most of the reason. I would really love to know and understand the technical reason for it though. Like how does a 100% tread tire cause the car to not dart around as much? does the softer rubber absorb some energy when it happens? does a balder tire act like a stiffer wheel?

EDIT: I was able to measure about 2-3mm of remaining tread on the rears and about 4 or 5mm on the front. I don't know what the original tread depth was but I'll assum its a centimeter, so that would technically mean I'm at 20-30% in the rear and 40-50% in the front but not sure if that really makes a difference