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Originally Posted by Spooler
You need SPC toe bolts to get the rear Toe in spec with the proper camber. Excessive camber will cause the Tramline to be worse. You need front camber arms or FUCA. Get SPL, they are easy to adjust. Set the camber to -1.4 front and -1.5 rear. As I said before, set the toe to dead middle of spec. The next thing to do is to properly setup the dampers. You want the dampers to control the compression and rebound. Full soft does nothing. You have to dial the dampers in to absorb those impacts. Set it in the middle and adjust until the car is more stable on a bumpy road. If it is still bouncing around, add one more click positive to make the dampers work more. It takes time to dial in the dampers. I tuned mine in on I-16 which is bumpy as hell. The ride is just about perfect now.
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This is super encouraging and it definitely gives me hope. What I still don't get though is if all these extra parts are needed to get coilovers to sit and feel right, how the hell is everyone else thats just running them alone getting away with it? The only explanation would be I'm too low which is causing all the negative camber, but I'm almost maxed to the highest setting in the rear and the fronts are probably just a tad lower than lowering springs which is like 1.5 - 2 inch drop.
Definitely going to look into some upper control arms and the toe bolts in the mean time, thank you for the direction!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooler
Where are you in Florida. If you can drive up to the Savannah, Ga. area I can set them up for you in about 30min. once you get the alignment set properly.
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South east coast but I'm almost willing to take a trip just to see what a tuned suspension is actually supposed to feel like on this car lol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooler
PM and ask Elmo370z how my car rides. It is easy to set them up when you get the hang of it.
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I actually had no idea the damper settings were actually meant to fine tune the ride quality. I always assumed stiffer = track, softer = street.