How to remove subframe cross brace?

BettyZ

The brackets the OP wants to weld onto the subframe so he can attach a Nismo rear damper. Did you lose your reading glasses again

__________________
'14 MB Nismo | Boost Lab 6870 1.32 AR 553 HP / 471 ft.-lbs.
Betty Mods

Rusty

My brackets are bolted on. Two bolts on each side.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

gshort24

I can handle oil changes, but that's about it, so I appreciate everyone's advise and suggestions which gave me the confidence to do this myself with limited tools etc. Thanks for the help.

In order to remove the cross member support straight down instead of trying to slide it forward a couple inches to clear the attachment area in the center for the long curved round bar sub frame brace, I just removed 6 bolts that were easy to get to, and dropped that curved brace down a few inches which didn't take that long. I looked again and their was an area where I could support the subrame with jack stands or for more space savings I just used a 2 x 4. As I was loosening the rear subframe bolts to get to the piece i wanted to remove, the body started separating from the subframe which made me nervous during my first attempt, but it ended up that the subframe was not actually dropping down away from the body which I expected load to be put on the 2 x 4s I had under the subframe, but instead since the shocks were still connected to the the body, it seems like the bolts were pulling and sucking the body down onto the subframe. I removed the subframe bolts, twisted and finagled the crossbrace out and through the side of the car so I didn't have to remove the muffler.

I was able to get ahold of a crusty Nismo crossbrace to use as a template to create my own brackets which could be welded onto the piece I pulled out of my car. I'll take it to a professional welder, then should be good to go.

Attached Images

	12.jpg (126.8 KB, 17 views)
	22.jpg (104.8 KB, 12 views)
	32.jpg (100.3 KB, 10 views)
	4.jpg (109.0 KB, 10 views)
	5.jpg (97.4 KB, 14 views)

JARblue

Glad you got it taken care of but still confused why you didn't just use the designated jack stand points in front of the rear wheels

__________________

gshort24

I could do the work without needing to lift the car, and I was originally concerned with holding up the rear part of the subrame which I thought would sag down. Supporting the jack point area was not a bad idea especially if I lifted the car, but I didn't try that mainly because the jack point was closer to the front end of the subframe, and not directly under the area were the bolts were being removed.

gshort24

I got the brackets welded on etc, the location of the bracket and the bolt holes appear to be the same as the OEM sample part that I have which has the brackets. It sounds like you have a Nismo that came with these performance dampeners. Can you do me a favor and check the clearance between the performance damper bracket and the lower control arm?

Mine is not touching, but it's pretty close, I can't stick a finger tip in between the bracket and the suspension arm. Is this OK or do I need more clearance in case I hit a large bump etc. It's hard to get a clear pic of the gap because of the shadows and the camera has to be at the perfect angle etc.

Attached Images

	1.jpg (65.4 KB, 12 views)
	2.jpg (63.4 KB, 11 views)
	3.jpg (62.0 KB, 11 views)
	4.jpg (65.3 KB, 9 views)

Rusty

Left side, I have about 5/8" clearance. The right side is about 1/2" clearance.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html