![]() |
Originally Posted by zefaulter Just an update, the problem is my rear sway bar links. Ordered SPL replacement, I'll update the thread one I install those. Alignment is not the
|
|||||||
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: McAllen Tx.
Posts: 1,038
Drives: '09 PW 370Z
Rep Power: 369 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
So was the problem fixed? I've been dealing with the same similar issue and haven't been able to solve it.
__________________
'09 6spd. Touring: Eibach / SPC / Motordyne / Berk / Z1 / Oneighty / Mines / SSR / Stillen / CFE |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 (permalink) |
|
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: South Carolina
Age: 59
Posts: 15,204
Drives: 13’ 370Z TS 7A/T
Rep Power: 2684396 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
You say alignment was good?
ck.what it was before you added the lowering parts/as you lower;it gives you more negative camber, I don't have any lowering springs-but on alignment movement's;;;when you adjust the camber negative(top of tire lean inward)it will also move the rear toe negative(front of tire will point outwards) Rear must have some Positive Toe or the Azz end will be dancing around;especially at higher speeds & hard acceleration or deceleration. For a quick check before taking it in;measure the width on the front side & backside of rear tires (on a common tread groove) Good to have a helper & be sure to stretch an even pull/as high as possible(3 or 4" from ground) without contacting underside of car. wouldn't hurt to ck. the front also ;;;But Remember;the rear Toe Spec.call's for about twice the positive toe as the front. On a level surface,you should have 1/8---1/4" closer gap on Front side of rear wheels. Fuel level will affect this measurement. Actual specs. for total Toe on rear are (min 0.079" Nominal 0.146" max 0.213") I got mine set on the higher end w/stock ride height,,,car behave's well. The rear camber & toe are adjustable on Stock ~Z~ w/the Factory eccentric bolt's.
__________________
MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html |
|
|
|
|
|
#10 (permalink) |
|
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,413
Drives: slowly
Rep Power: 40571 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Remove the rear bar completely and see if the problem gets better worse. It's not really necessary a number of people that track their car find it's not too beneficial.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#13 (permalink) |
|
Base Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 36
Drives: 09 370z Nismo
Rep Power: 11 ![]() |
This is a problem with all of the cars IMO, my car had the same issue. Especially with the stock suspension. These cars have a TON of camber change throughout the suspension travel, which with low offset wheels or big tires etc can cause the rear to feel very unstable. The bumpsteer is actually pretty good for a car that has this much travel.
My track day car was scary with 315's until I got the suspension firm enough to limit the change to acceptable range. My car will go from negative 1.8* rear to +5* before I hit the limit of my downtravel. When I put springs on my car and big front bar, the car was much more stable. Zack **edit**** I think have non-adjustable rear lower arms also is a problem, the longer arm length you will have with an adjustable arm when lowered would help greatly with geometry changes. |
|
|
|
|
|
#14 (permalink) |
|
Track Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 972
Drives: slower than before
Rep Power: 388 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Couple more things to check on each tire...
Wheel Bearings: lift it off the ground and Push/Pull Top and Bottom (12 & 6 o-clock). Do it with gusto! There should be very little to no play. Less than 1/64 inch at the rim I would think is fine. Control arms: Have someone else Push/Pull 3 & 9 o-clock. Watch the control arms. If you see the ends shift in their seats, replace them. Shocks maybe? How do your shocks feel? Does the car settle immediately after a large bump or does it take a 2 or 3 cycles to settle. Also, I would expect a little instability over cobblestone type roads since we have fairly stiff suspensions. If you want better stability over that kind of surface go with the dual rate springs like swift.
__________________
|RIP|6spd-sport|OSG-LSD|XP8|RBF600|Eibach Sways|RE-71R|FI-34Row|Gen3-CAI|Yaw P.S.| |
|
|
|
|
|
#15 (permalink) | |
|
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,983
Drives: 40th 370Z
Rep Power: 29 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Question about cornering... | Infidel | Brakes & Suspension | 30 | 04-29-2013 05:48 PM |
| Wheels bouncing/skipping on take-off? | EazyD | Track / Autocross / Drifting / Dragstrip | 10 | 05-28-2012 01:42 PM |
| Shimmy in high speed corners | sig11 | Brakes & Suspension | 36 | 03-16-2012 04:10 PM |
| Issue: High to Max Water Temp and High to Max Fan Speed While Idling After Long Drive | FLZ | Engine & Drivetrain | 4 | 08-06-2011 02:52 PM |
| High Speed course wheel requirements | Nikon FM | Track / Autocross / Drifting / Dragstrip | 5 | 07-23-2009 10:07 PM |