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#2 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 4,024
Drives: too slow
Rep Power: 3596 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
You'll see mentioned by some (I forget if it was mentioned in this thread) that in theory swaybars shouldn't be necessary on a perfect racecar. You'd just set the springs and dampers correctly to avoid the worst of the body roll, and you don't want the swaybar doing other possibly-negative unrelated things. The reason swaybars make so much sense on a production car in general is that springs which are hard enough to kill significant amounts of body roll are going to be way too hard for normal use, so the swaybar is making up for lack of spring in one particular area: body roll.
But then again, even on some dedicated racecar designs that aren't based on production cars, you see some version of a roll bar on one or both ends of the car. It does have its purpose in fine-tuning sometimes. It's usually not nearly as dramatic in spring rate as a production-car rollbar, though. But yes, on our car you apparently just can't ever adequately kill the roll in the front, so you need both stiff springs and a stiff bar up there to help bring it under control. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Track Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Cincy
Posts: 717
Drives: NISMO 370Z RC
Rep Power: 16 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Here is another bit... If you dont have adjustable front arms... You will need BAR.
![]() There isnt a lot of grip on the sidewall of any tire. Just sayin. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#6 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 4,024
Drives: too slow
Rep Power: 3596 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Yeah I had that problem for a while too, I'd just destroy the outsides of the front tires while leaving the inner tread looking new. More front camber! (and caster if you can)
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#7 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 1,059
Drives: 370Z Racecar
Rep Power: 21 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
__________________
Grant |
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#8 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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worth downgrading to 18's just because of saving the $$ on tires alone, for example rs3's in 18's my hook up is under $900 but a set of 19's it's close to 1200. So after about 4 set of tires your savings is exactly 1 set of nt03 enkei 18x.5 wheels.
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#9 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: FL
Posts: 4,776
Drives: Baby Shark
Rep Power: 701617 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
At this point even though I know 18 are "better" for the track I'm not going that way yet. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Track Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Mission Viejo, CA
Posts: 769
Drives: '12 370Z 6M Sport
Rep Power: 15 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Yeah I didn't even understand why martin liked the damn KW, and he didn't understand why I hated it, and then I told him it's the colors, and then he said "Lakers Bro". And then it made sense to me.
18's are the way to go for affordability in tires. The price is honestly 100's of dollars difference as martin pointed out and there are many more options with a 18" wheel. It also improves your acceleration as the drag strip guys know. I run 19" Foose "Bling Chrome" wheels on street 1 because they look nice, but 2 I would be at a disadvantage on track. If you want to see the real problem browse the GTR forums where they all have 20" wheels. There are no tire options for those guys besides the toyo R888. They have one friggin tire option in that size. (maybe soon they will have the NT01) With an 18" wheels your tire options are 10 fold at least. And yes, if you were potentially in need of tires, then talking to the owner of a car that one of hankook's sponsored drivers on this forum owns is mutually a good idea.
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