WTF is wrong with my brakes?

DarkJak · 01-31-2022, 09:33 PM

"RBF600 fluid, about 3 months old"
I'm pretty sure you aren't running into brake fade, but boiled your brake fluid. Most people I know who run Motul 600 swap fluid or at least bleed every event, else they boil. Like already said, a higher temp fluid would help a ton with this, and SRF lasts way longer without changing thanks to the higher wet boiling temps.

I tracked for a long time with leaky bleeder nipples and high temps. Absolutely destroyed the paint on my akebonos and got all over my wheels but keeping the fluid topped off, I was able to get by, as annoying as it was.

The Z1 rotors dissipate heat alright, but have less mass than others and this seems to lead to more frequent cracking.

FWIW, a lighter car with stickier tires will have less braking required and have less heat to dissipate as a result. Track matters a ton too. I run a full weight car with 200TW tires on brake heavy tracks and have attributed a lot of my own struggles with those circumstances.

JARblue · 02-01-2022, 02:59 PM

I would try fresh fluid first since that's the easiest possible solution and good practice anyway (Motul fluid is not expensive).

Quote:

Originally Posted by OptionZero

Also, as others suggested, try either solid rotors with the cryo treatment or the racing brake 2pc rotors, which are thicker than Z1’s. I believe it’s 32mm vs 28mm

Quote:

Originally Posted by DarkJak

The Z1 rotors dissipate heat alright, but have less mass than others and this seems to lead to more frequent cracking.

But I'm inclined to believe that the Z1 2pc rotors are at least a factor of overheating if not the direct culprit. The lightweight Z1 rotors have much less mass, which means they cannot absorb as much heat. During repeated high performance operation they simply cannot dissipate the heat fast enough.

Seems like the cryo treated blank rotors are one of the better budget options out there. Although I'm very tempted to pick up one of DarkJak's brake setups - the price is right.

osbornsm · 02-21-2022, 02:10 PM

You need...

2-piece rotors
Brake ducting
Castrol SRF
Titanium backing plates

01-31-2022, 09:33 PM	#1 (permalink)
DarkJak A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 1,397 Drives: 2009 370Z Rep Power: 16806	"RBF600 fluid, about 3 months old" I'm pretty sure you aren't running into brake fade, but boiled your brake fluid. Most people I know who run Motul 600 swap fluid or at least bleed every event, else they boil. Like already said, a higher temp fluid would help a ton with this, and SRF lasts way longer without changing thanks to the higher wet boiling temps. I tracked for a long time with leaky bleeder nipples and high temps. Absolutely destroyed the paint on my akebonos and got all over my wheels but keeping the fluid topped off, I was able to get by, as annoying as it was. The Z1 rotors dissipate heat alright, but have less mass than others and this seems to lead to more frequent cracking. FWIW, a lighter car with stickier tires will have less braking required and have less heat to dissipate as a result. Track matters a ton too. I run a full weight car with 200TW tires on brake heavy tracks and have attributed a lot of my own struggles with those circumstances. JARblue, OptionZero, Rusty and 2 others like this. __________________ @stupidtoycars \| My track vids 09 7AT\|MCS 2WNR\|Topgunz Rotrex\|Ecutek (Eugene)\|Maxxis RC1\|Titan-7 TS-5\|OSG LSD\|Rear Mount Derale Oil Cooler (WIP)+25 Trans Cooler\|Fismo\|G-LOC R12/R10\|Zeta III L\|NLR Wing and Splitter\|CJM Pan and Fuel Hat\|Radium Surge Tank\|AP Racing CP9668

02-21-2022, 02:10 PM	#3 (permalink)
osbornsm A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: WHAT Posts: 2,551 Drives: 2018 Camaro SS 1LE Rep Power: 426	You need... 2-piece rotors Brake ducting Castrol SRF Titanium backing plates Rusty and Hotrodz like this. __________________ 2018 Camaro SS 1LE (455hp) - 2011 Nissan 370z (333hp) - 2004 VW R32 (240hp) - 2000 Civic Si (160hp)

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