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370Z replacement...suggestions?

Originally Posted by UNKNOWN_370 Do more modding and you'll see marked handling improvements. You think the car feels better now? Add sways, endlinks,swifts and spacers. You will be in awe.

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Old 02-23-2013, 09:44 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by UNKNOWN_370 View Post
Do more modding and you'll see marked handling improvements. You think the car feels better now? Add sways, endlinks,swifts and spacers. You will be in awe.

It doesn't take a lot of money to make handling excellent. You just don't listen to us. lol
I just don't care that much. I'd rather buy another suppressor, or AK47, or something else. Also warranty, as much as it breaks, I do not want to void it. 370Z isn't very robust in my experience. Best to not give Nissan any more excuses other than my CBE.
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Old 02-22-2013, 06:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Welcome to the PSS club. They make everything better.
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:37 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Welcome to the PSS club. They make everything better.
Its the single most effective addition one can make to the Z. The rest do not give nearly as much effect so immediately.
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Glad you are happy with the repairs!
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:32 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Well, the brakes are messed up again. I doubt the wreck caused it as much as me just driving the car every day and getting used to it as it progressed and then being out of it for over a month, I can immediately tell after my first abrupt slowing from highway speeds that the rotors are warped again. I'm going to have Nissan just replace it. They turned it down a LOT last time to get all the warp out of it. I have literally never seen a rotor this pathetic. That's the one thing I do keep missing about my 'vette. It was made to stand up to AT LEAST daily driving duties

*sigh*

Glad to have her back, but annoyed at the constant piddly repairs that this thing has to have to remain enjoyable. Yes, I'm keeping it, but no, I'll never subject myself to another Nissan product. WAY! too maintenance intensive. Definitely getting extended warranty on this car. I recommend it to everyone who owns one of these. I'm still waiting for my power-steering to go out. Groans like some of the old donks I see on the bad side of town, but Nissan says "Normal". Oh, well, wait until it goes TU and have it replaced. *sigh*.

Yeah, frustrated. Sucks. Hate all the corners Nissan cut on such a beautiful vehicle.

Last edited by ImportConvert; 02-24-2013 at 09:36 AM.
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:07 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Well, the brakes are messed up again. I doubt the wreck caused it as much as me just driving the car every day and getting used to it as it progressed and then being out of it for over a month, I can immediately tell after my first abrupt slowing from highway speeds that the rotors are warped again. I'm going to have Nissan just replace it. They turned it down a LOT last time to get all the warp out of it. I have literally never seen a rotor this pathetic. That's the one thing I do keep missing about my 'vette. It was made to stand up to AT LEAST daily driving duties

*sigh*

Glad to have her back, but annoyed at the constant piddly repairs that this thing has to have to remain enjoyable. Yes, I'm keeping it, but no, I'll never subject myself to another Nissan product. WAY! too maintenance intensive. Definitely getting extended warranty on this car. I recommend it to everyone who owns one of these. I'm still waiting for my power-steering to go out. Groans like some of the old donks I see on the bad side of town, but Nissan says "Normal". Oh, well, wait until it goes TU and have it replaced. *sigh*.

Yeah, frustrated. Sucks. Hate all the corners Nissan cut on such a beautiful vehicle.

Had my 2011 sport package Z for a little over a year and have no idea what the heck you're talking about as far as rotors warping. Have had to stomp on the brakes more than enough living in southern california and never had any problems with the brakes afterwards.
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:54 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Had my 2011 sport package Z for a little over a year and have no idea what the heck you're talking about as far as rotors warping. Have had to stomp on the brakes more than enough living in southern california and never had any problems with the brakes afterwards.
Maybe you're less picky, or maybe my car has a bad rotor. The right front they just cleaned up a tad, but the left front had to be turned TWICE before it was true. This time around, I'm going to ask for a replacement. It's only been 7K miles since the last time this was an issue.

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The key is to bed your pads in properly. If you are lucky, you might be able to remove them by running the brakes really hard and basically re-bed them. You have to either smell the brakes or fade the brakes to a point where you don't have a pedal anymore.
They properly bedded them at the dealership when I had them re-do them. Took the car out, used an IR gun to measure temps, bedded them with a similar procedure as the GT-R brakes, although obviously not the same as it's not a GT_R. THat's what I was told. When I got the car, it felt great. Stopped awesome, and I could look at the rotors and tell the brakes had been bedded, or at least something had occurred, as there was definite pad transfer, etc. Smelled like it, too. GT-R tech did the work.

Either way, it's not dust, it's a warped rotor. If it were just dust, it wouldn't have taken a ton of metal being removed to fix the left front rotor, and just a quick clean-up for the sake of it on the right.
____
I tried re-bedding them the first time, 6 hard stops from 60, 4 from 80, drove around on the freeway until the rotors cooled off, never came to a complete stop. It only exacerbated the problem. This time? It's going straight to the dealership for a new left-front rotor.

Last edited by ImportConvert; 02-25-2013 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Maybe you're less picky, or maybe my car has a bad rotor. The right front they just cleaned up a tad, but the left front had to be turned TWICE before it was true. This time around, I'm going to ask for a replacement. It's only been 7K miles since the last time this was an issue.



They properly bedded them at the dealership when I had them re-do them. Took the car out, used an IR gun to measure temps, bedded them with a similar procedure as the GT-R brakes, although obviously not the same as it's not a GT_R. THat's what I was told. When I got the car, it felt great. Stopped awesome, and I could look at the rotors and tell the brakes had been bedded, or at least something had occurred, as there was definite pad transfer, etc. Smelled like it, too. GT-R tech did the work.

Either way, it's not dust, it's a warped rotor. If it were just dust, it wouldn't have taken a ton of metal being removed to fix the left front rotor, and just a quick clean-up for the sake of it on the right.
____
I tried re-bedding them the first time, 6 hard stops from 60, 4 from 80, drove around on the freeway until the rotors cooled off, never came to a complete stop. It only exacerbated the problem. This time? It's going straight to the dealership for a new left-front rotor.
trust me im pretty picky about the way my cars drive, matter of fact my little honda civic that i use as a daily driver is having the same problems with the rotors that your Z has, but since it's a beater car it's not really a top priority as long as the brakes work properly. On my Z though if that happened that would definitely annoy me enough to get them changed out, but that never happened with my Z even after pushing it pretty hard through the corners and using the brakes extensively. The main thing i always kept in mind though after heating up the rotors that much though was to let them go through a cool down period before i touched the brakes again.
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You need to do way better than that, a couple stops from 80 is nothing. Also when you resurface rotor, you are essentially removing metal from it and making them less effective.

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I tried re-bedding them the first time, 6 hard stops from 60, 4 from 80, drove around on the freeway until the rotors cooled off, never came to a complete stop. It only exacerbated the problem. This time? It's going straight to the dealership for a new left-front rotor.
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:31 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cossie1600 View Post
You need to do way better than that, a couple stops from 80 is nothing. Also when you resurface rotor, you are essentially removing metal from it and making them less effective.
These aren't track pads. These are not track rotors. That is plenty sufficient to have cleaned up anything, if it WAS to be cleaned up, doing the above. Anyway, it's a moot point, **** should not have to be done on 10K mile old brakes when they did fine previously, and then again at 17K miles after they did fine after being fixed at 10K. I could understand if they were not right from the get-go, but this is a problem and it needs fixing, and re-bedding the brakes isn't the way, IMO, given what was found last time (one rotor needed turning twice as much as the other).

Anyway, you're right, which is why I want them to replace the LEFT FRONT ROTOR.

If it were just deposits, both rotors up front would have had a problem, they didn't, just the left front. Right front just took a light clean-up, left front had to be turned twice for it to be true.

I'm going to get the rest of my car (TPMS sensor, rear bumper) fixed at the body shop today, and deal with the brakes tomorrow. I doubt they will argue about replacing the rotor, considering it did the same thing at 10K miles and they said it was so bad off it needed to be turned twice, I think an argument for factory defect can be made, in the case of that rotor. Why isn't the right rotor messed up? Yeah...

Why is this an issue for me? It feels like crap turning into a corner when the weight shifts to the left-front. To me, that's an issue. Will it make the car handle worse/less safe? Nah, but screw that. Even my old 5.0 from 1988 had less shudder when I got on the brakes, I don't feel like I am getting what I paid for, and I doubt Nissan will argue.

Last edited by ImportConvert; 02-26-2013 at 05:35 AM.
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Rotors rarely warp, it's pad deposits.
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Rotors rarely warp, it's pad deposits.
Yep. The stupid low dust OEM pads make cleaning easy but leave deposits like a mother
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:53 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cossie1600 View Post
Rotors rarely warp, it's pad deposits.
I said the same thing until the shop had to turn one of my front rotors TWICE and take a ton of metal off of it to get it "true". I read all the same Stop-Tech articles or whatever, thought just what you are saying. I may still be wrong, but they couldn't clean it up without turning it down a lot. So who knows?
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:47 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The key is to bed your pads in properly. If you are lucky, you might be able to remove them by running the brakes really hard and basically re-bed them. You have to either smell the brakes or fade the brakes to a point where you don't have a pedal anymore.
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:29 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I couldn't stress this pkg enough...

http://www.autoaccessoriesgarage.com...FQGEnQodm2QAQg

http://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=C...ch+rotors+370z

You and C&D are the only two with brake issues.

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