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Originally Posted by filip00 Gotta love spamming this thread. I received my diff with 4.08 gears installed! The specialist also took time to sandblast the housing and paint it so
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![]() ![]() So what I did was, bent the broken tube back into place. Then I tested it for pinching - I inserted a plastic zip tie into it, just to see if it goes through. It does, but it jams in the pinch unless I twist it. That was expected, as the pinch is just perpendicular to the angle the zip ties goes in. Anyway, I used JB Weld which I put around the whole tube, as the lower part of the breather tube wasn't completely stuck in the diff cover, but it was possible to rotate the tube if tried. I know there was an option of changing the differential cover altogether, but this wouldn't work for me, as the high capacity covers interfere with the additional diff brace that I've got installed. I don't doubt that this fix will hold, I'm just wondering whether it will seal it well, or am I looking at the oily diff cover every few weeks....
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This would probably be the best option, but I don't have any thread tapping tools right now...and I'm a bit on the fence if this is a "good enough" fix for this or not - as what you suggested is definitely best, but requires additional work and some tools I don't have...
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Thanks for the link. Ok, pressing it in can probably be achieved by using a pipe cut in length, and gently hammering it in. But.. How do i take the old one out? Just grip it and unscrew it?
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Maybe someone else will chime in…
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In the meantime, I gave it some thought and maybe if I just bend the tube back (provided that it's not pinched) - I could just use some JB weld around it and it should be OK, right?
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Are you going to order a new breather tube?
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Thanks for the advice guys.
JB Weld is very thick, it can't seep in, no worries about that. I'm also thinking, since it's just a breather tube, the pressure flowing isn't too crazy, and if the tube isn't pinched, just JB Weld should be ok....right? Or am I forgetting anything? I contacted the guys who fixed my diff to see if they'd send me a new breather tube or not, so I'll see what's the easiest option. I really wanna make sure it works well (either reinstall or fixing) because I really don't want to be dropping my diff YET AGAIN.....
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Thanks!
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They also make JB Weld PUTTY. Works awesome!
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I mean, I could, but is it really worth it? If it's just a breather tube with no crazy pressures and if metal putty will work, then I think a new cover is an overkill. I still gotta try fixing it first, I didn't have time yet to get around to it. I'll post updates in a few weeks when I can.
In the meantime - the new tyres arrived for the Z. I bought Goodyear Eagle F1 Assymetric 6. https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre/Goo...ymmetric-6.htm They should be pretty good. I bought the stock dimension (245, 275)
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Agreed. If it bends back, seal it with JB weld and call it a day. If it snaps, drill/tap it for a fitting. Or use this as an opportunity to go with a high capacity finned diff cover. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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After ten LONG years of looking at these hideous silver refrigerator door handles, I reached my breaking point!!
Status: Drying... Process: Easy to remove - I was able to unscrew 1/2 screws on each side for the door lock button... the other one - as others have posted - was rusted, but I think I can press it back into it's old spot as the screw goes into a washer that's seated into the door housing - basically they pressfit the nut that it goes into... I did not want to deal with getting in there to remove those blue clips!! Note: The "torq" bolt - don't bother ordering a special set of them - mine was not even hand tight...but now I have a whole set for future use... if you're just doing the handles only - you can get away with a flathead (there's only that one on the drivers side). Spent a solid 30 minutes per handle sanding with 600...then paper towel wipe, then alcohol swab wipe... Then: 1) 4 Coats of aluminum primer - it sprays white... 2) 5 Coats of black primer - This is what you want for dark blue base coat apparently... other colors you want either a white primer - or grey primer...please do research as it - somehow - makes a difference in terms of how your paint will behave in different lighting...Paint experts can chime in on that topic 3) 5 Coats of base coat - I used a company called touchupzone.com - $34 for a single can - used prettymuch all of it 4) Era Paints 2K clear - this stuff is pure evil - Buy the 3m respirator and appropriate filters - this is easily the strongest stuff I have ever sprayed myself...I ended up doing around 5 coats... It was orange peel like on coats 1-3... so keep spraying and it levels out nicely! Currently drying - Will wait 2 days til I attempt to put them back on car: ![]() Oh and: the windows went down like they were possessed - so - that will be "fun" doing the whole reset thing... for now they went back up if I put turned car on like usual... Somehow Nissan knows when you're removing the drivers side handle... |
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I settled for the later model year dark chrome ones on the wife’s car. Not nearly as good as having them painted but a little better than the eye sore bright silver… Jealous again
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