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Averying's 2009 Platinum Graphite 370z Journal

Hey everyone Figured I'd make a thread to dump all my photos/videos/posts about my car going forward. Bought the car in October 2020 from OG forum member DannyGT . The

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Old 05-02-2022, 10:33 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Averying's 2009 Platinum Graphite 370z Journal

Hey everyone

Figured I'd make a thread to dump all my photos/videos/posts about my car going forward.

Bought the car in October 2020 from OG forum member DannyGT. The car had a bunch of great parts on it when I got it, including a GTM Stage 1 Supercharger kit, coilovers, sway bars, wheels, etc. I could tell that he only went for the best with this Z and that it was extremely well taken care of over its lifetime. I drove it back to RI, and that's where this starts!

Engine:
GTM Stage 1 Supercharger Kit
GTM 34 row oil cooler

Transmission:
Z1 CSC delete kit
Z1 lightweight flywheel & clutch kit

Fuel:
Z1 anti-starvation kit (Holley Hydramat)

Exhaust:
GTM Resonated test pipes
Z1 test pipes
Invidia Gemini Catback

Suspension:
Z1 FUCAs
Hotchkis front and rear swaybars
BC Racing BR Coilovers (Divorced, OEM type) - 230mm rear spring for extra ride height
PLM eccentric camber and toe bolts

Alignment:
Camber: -2.5°F, -2°R
Toe: tbd

Brakes:
Z1 2-piece front rotors
Carbotech XP10/8 (for future track days?)
EBC Yellowstuff pads (daily/autox)
Stainless steel braided brake lines

Exterior:
Front fangs, roof, rear diffuser painted black
Front bumper cutout to feed the oil cooler

Interior:
AEM 150psi oil pressure gauge

Fluids:
Redline 5w-30 Engine Oil
Redline 75w-90 Diff Oil
Redline MT-85 Transmission Oil
Rotrex SX-150 Traction Fluid
Motul RBF600

Wheels/Tires:
AME TM02’s (19x9.5F+22, R19x10.5F+22)
Michelin PS4S (285/35/19F, 325/30/19R)

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Last edited by Averying; 02-21-2023 at 01:17 PM.
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Old 05-02-2022, 12:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Great looking Z!
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Old 05-02-2022, 07:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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fun times are ahead, congrats
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Old 10-11-2022, 06:26 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Been slacking on posting anything here. Finally got to an SCCA autocross this year in Devens, MA. Video down below

Car felt good in the afternoon session once I turned up the dampers to ~2/3 stiff. I accidentally left them on almost full soft (which I use for street) in the morning session.

Need to be more confident getting on throttle earlier and staying on it later into the corner. Brakes didn’t feel as grabby on initial braking as I’d like, but I can definitely brake later into the corner and carry a bit more speed in.

Best time of 55.711 put me 48th/98. I’m happy with that result seeing as how competitive this New England region is and also the fact that the majority of folks ahead of me are on a sticky 200tw tire (RT660, A052, etc). My last run was a bit faster as well, but I hit a cone and botched the last corner. My goal is that more seat time and confidence should get me to top 1/3 of the field.

https://youtu.be/wp3-Onbz6w8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wp3-Onbz6w8
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Last edited by Averying; 10-11-2022 at 06:35 AM.
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Old 11-02-2022, 12:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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NER SCCA Autocross 10/30/22 (Video Below)
46/105 Raw time
47/105 Pax time

(Sorry for the long posts… this is also me keeping track of my progression)

Final Autox this year before winter hibernation for the Z. Ended up with a pretty nice day for end of October in the mid 60s.

My driving:
I felt more comfortable handling the car when it would get loose on entry or exit. I need to work on carrying speed through wider corners and keeping my eyes up to take a better line (which will help keep my speed up).

The car itself:
The car felt good last event when turning up the dampers. I turned them up 3 more clicks (front and rear) this time just to see and the car still felt good. I’m hoping I get to the point where I can tell when they’re set too stiff, and then I’ll back off a few clicks.
The car does feel a bit soft on these BC BR coilovers. Especially under braking there is more dive than I’d like. With 10k front 8k rear rates, they’re basically stock spring rates, and I doubt the dampers are much better than stock.
Due to the decreased # of runs and longer wait between runs at these SCCA events, I haven’t noticed the diff overheating and spinning the inside rear. I know a true LSD would be better though and is still on my future to-do list.

Finished 46/105, so I’m happy about coming in higher than 50% percentile in the field. Up to 44% percentile of the field. Goal for next year is to consistently get to top 1/3 of the event. Maybe then I’ll convince myself to go for a real diff and 200TW tires. For now I’ll try and chase down everyone on my current set up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQbgEJUSRjE
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Last edited by Averying; 11-02-2022 at 02:04 PM.
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Old 01-03-2023, 06:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Well the car is finally in the garage for its winter “refresh”.

Work to be done:
1. Test pipes need to be replaced. The resonators in these GTM pipes are falling apart. This was discovered when I pulled them off to replace the gaskets. This explains the rattle I’ve had in the passenger side for almost 2 years now. I attributed this to “test pipe hiss/rattle/NVH” which I assumed was unavoidable. Picking up a new set of test pipes soon and I’m excited to hear how much smoother the sound is.
2. I have a P0300/P0138 (and associated other codes) code that has progressively gotten worse, leading to misfires above ~2500rpm during moderate load. I plan to clean MAF, install new exhaust gaskets (I know of 1 leak), and possibly replace an O2 sensor.
3. New sway bar end links in the front. New sway bar end links in the rear and converting to a G37S bar instead of Hotchkis.
4. Diff bushings to be swapped with Z1 poly mounts.
5. Rear camber and toe bolts to be swapped with PLM eccentric bolts to get to a better alignment.
6. Rear end to be dropped ~ 1/2” to match the front. Didn’t do this in the past because my alignment was already maxed. New eccentric bolts will let me lower a bit more.
7. Resetting rear coilovers by setting max compression with the dampers / bump stops, THEN adjusting ride height with the springs. This will give me max droop travel in the rear and hopefully more inside tire grip.
8. Remove and reseal the passenger side headlight.
9. Grease sway bar bushings and FUCA bushings.






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Old 01-04-2023, 05:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Averying's 2009 Platinum Graphite 370z Journal

Adding to my last post. Realized the test pipe is completely cracked at the weld. Check out the movement at the weld joint. I’m assuming that’s definitely the reason for my p0138 and p0300 misfire code.

Already picked up some Z1 test pipes as a replacement.

https://youtu.be/1SpD9CtoCeY


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Last edited by Averying; 01-04-2023 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 01-06-2023, 08:22 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Default Averying's 2009 Platinum Graphite 370z Journal

I’d say this diff bushing warrants replacement no? *sarcasm* for the serious folks out there

Can’t wait to get the Z1 kit installed. Bye bye clunk on quick upshifts





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Old 01-09-2023, 07:06 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Another surprise thing to fix on the car while I’ve got it apart. Took the rear shocks off to set my bump travel and see that the bump stops are literally crumbling and cracked.





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Old 01-09-2023, 09:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Averying's 2009 Platinum Graphite 370z Journal

Gotta love that New England rust! And this car barely ever sees a winter road

The sleeve is supposed to slide up off the shaft. Rented a puller from oreillys… and it bent the thick a*s washer under the sleeve.

Ugh. Letting it soak again in PB blaster and going to torch it and see if i can still use the puller to get it off.

Might just give in and buy replacement dampers and top hats for the rear of the car.




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Last edited by Averying; 01-09-2023 at 09:26 PM.
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Old 02-21-2023, 01:13 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Default Averying's 2009 Platinum Graphite 370z Journal

Been putting in an hour of work here and there on the Z… slowly making some progress towards driving this thing again!

1. Diff bushings swapped for Z1 poly bushings. Getting the main bushing out was a pain in the *** but that’s mostly me being stubborn and not going to buy a sawzall. Hand saw, punch, and a lot of elbow grease did the job. For getting the new bushing in, you NEED a press of some sort. No way I was gonna hammer that in, even after freezing everything overnight.
Didn’t bother trying to scrub the mess from the OG bushing. Battle scars I guess?

2. Camber and toe bolt slots elongated for PLM eccentric bolts. I saw some people recommending dremel bit #115… don’t get this. Go for a tungsten carbide bit instead. I used a 1/8” tungsten carbide burr which did the job fine, but going for a larger burr would’ve sped up the job tremendously. ALSO, having an extension shaft for the dremel would make accessing the slots easier. Overall though, easy job.

3. Pulled the passenger headlight apart to address some condensation buildup during rainy days. 10 min in the oven and it came apart no problem.











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Old 03-16-2023, 10:57 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Default Averying's 2009 Platinum Graphite 370z Journal

Well I’ve been chasing down a misfire for a few months now. Started off only happening on start up, and eventually the car really struggled after ~2.5k rpm.

A few days ago I started up the car for the first time in months and I was getting the same kind of misfire, and I had a P0305 code (cyl #5 misfire). I swapped the #5 and #1 spark plugs and coil packs and now I’m getting a P0300 code (multiple misfires), but the car starts up and misfires (intermittently it seems) in the same exact way as before swapping the parts between cylinder.

I also had an O2 sensor code in the past but I attribute that to my cracked test pipe, which is now fixed. That O2 code hasn’t come back during my jack-stand start ups this winter.

What I’ve tried already:
1. Fixed cracked test pipe and there aren’t any other noticeable exhaust leaks from the test pipes back.
2. Cleaned MAFs.

My next steps to diagnose the issue:
1. Run a mode $06 DTC scan and see if I can determine which individual cylinders are getting misfire codes. Hopefully this is a function I have in my OBDLink MX+ reader
2. Check that the fuel pump top hat hasn’t broken. I’m really hoping that this IS the issue. Obvious problem means easy diagnosing.
3. Run the car without air filters. Admittedly my cone filters are pretty old so if these are causing a restriction, taking them off briefly will indicate that. They were “cleaned” a year ago… but I am probably due for a new set.
4. Take out and clean injectors and throttle bodies.
5. Replace O2 sensors?? I don’t think this is the issue. Not throwing an O2 sensor code anymore
6. Cry

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Old 03-16-2023, 04:33 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Update:
As expected, only the passenger side cylinders 1,3,&5 have misfire problems. Worst case is still cylinder 5, which is AFTER switching the plugs and coils between #1 and #5

Fuel pump assembly seems to be in tact. Couldn’t get the whole assembly out of the tank, but it wasn’t blatantly cracked in half like I’ve seen on other pumps.






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Old 03-16-2023, 05:11 PM   #14 (permalink)
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One last thing came to mind. I’m ranting here but if anyone stumbles across this thread and wants to chime in, I’m open to advice right now.

It could be possible that when my passenger side test pipe was cracked, and throwing the O2 sensor code, the car was running too rich on that bank and ended up fouling the #1,3,&5 plugs. Of course I didn’t pay attention to the condition of the plugs when I swapped #1&5, because they looked identical.

I’ll pull a passenger and driver side plug to compare and see if they have excess carbon buildup.


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Old 03-16-2023, 05:22 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Loving the Z work.

New Spark plugs would be my next suggestion, but I'm only a lowly, home garage mechanic.

Good luck on correcting the issue! Looking forward to some positive updates.
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