Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

gbrettin

75% of the coolant lines are ran. The entire routing changed due to the stubborn lines needing a large radius to make a bend with out using a fitting. The -16 180 was taken from the water pump and applied to the radiator for a test route. Turns out it worked perfect so I will need to purchase another -16 180.

One small hang-up is the routing of line near the cold side of the turbo. Not necessarily a hang-up. I just need a hose guide so they don't rub all over the cold side. I need a few hose guides all over. This might be a project for my buddy who has a 3d printer.

I discovered a big deal last night. I grabbed the intercooler and started to position it near the radiator. Turns out that the coolant overflow and oil catch can encroach into valuable space used by the A2W IC. *sigh* What ever. I'll make room. I keep all options on the table.

Rusty

You might be better off by making some of the lines hard piped.

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gbrettin

That's a great idea. Especially for the -20 side! The -20 was getting me nervous after last night. Crazy thing is, I have seen it done on my buddy's race car. Not sure why I went down a rabbit hole where it wasn't an option.

The -16 lines should be fine. But if not... MAN. I'm really happy you chimed in with that Rusty!

I have 3 -16 straight connects that will come in handy!

Rusty

You should try and keep your length of hose to a minimum.

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gbrettin

Oh, random update. I found out that the guy making my oil pan came out for additional measurements yesterday. He is fully engaged now! Super excited about having a rear sump oil pan. Most everyone uses front sump with LS swaps. I don't think a rear sump is even available for the 370.

gbrettin

Ordered -10 hose, -10 orb, -10 straight connect. and -10 90deg connect for my oil catch can as well as the last fitting for the coolant system. ... 250 bucks later ... I should be able to complete the cooling system and the catch system. Luckly I only need a few bits for the fuel system and oil system, Fragola/Earls must own an empire!

Hopefully the fittings get here tomorrow... Although, I doubt it.

I ended up going to Alro, metal company, to pick up aluminum tubing. Just incase I want to tack some aluminum AN bungs in and make some hard line. It doesn't look like I will. But.... Options, ya know. Things clearly change quickly.

So what's next.... The radiator needs the lower mount. Previously, aluminum 1.5" angle was cut to length of the aluminum core support. Mounting holes need to be drilled and a riv-nut will be used on aluminum angle. Come to think of it, I could have used a riv-nut on the steel upper, but I was in weld mode and just tacked a nut into the steel.

Aluminum 1.5" angle will be tacked on toe the lower aluminum core support. This might be my first experience into TIG welding aluminum. (prepare for a train wreck). yes, I will practice first on similar aluminum. Also, by buddy will be there to help.

Below is the GIGANTIC -20 line. best spot is right under the plastic air duct on the bumper. Turns out there is enough room for it. I had to test fit and cut the tubing a few times. Let me tell you why... other than needing it to fit. 5' of -20 is 90 bucks. Let that sink in for a moment. SOooooOOooooo....... I was kicking my own *** after Rusty said "use some hard line". 4' of aluminum 1 3/4 was 7 dollars and a -20 weldable bung is 12 dollars.

The more you know.... Please God, I hope someone reads this and uses this slice of information.

Rusty

Tig welding aluminum. The weld area has to be clean. Wipe the area down with alcohol at least a half inch back. And then wire brush the chit out of the areas to be welded.

Which color banded tungsten you going to use?

Need to form a nice round ball on the end of the tungsten. If I remember right. DC straight will do it. If it's a narrow bead. A taper tungsten with a flat point will work.

At the end of the weld. Move the tungsten off center of the weld puddle to prevent the puddle center from getting a crack in it before you stop the arc.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

gbrettin

I can't answer any of your questions at this time. I literally know nothing about TIG. I'll report back.

10-4 on clean surface.

Rusty

Tig welding is like brazing. Instead of a torch with a gas flame. You have an electric arc.

Get your arc started, and heat up the end of the rod by holding it just outside of the arc. Then you can dip the rod in. When you're good. The bead will look like dimes. Mine look like nickles.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

gbrettin

Easy night tonight. Prepped the bottom bracket to be welded tomorrow. I used a smaller angled piece of aluminum and cut it to length. I drilled out a couple holes. 90 degree angle was not correct so the 90 was put into the clamp and turned into a 45ish. The aluminum was smashed flat with a hammer. It turned out fairly well when I placed it on the radiator. there's only a tiny gap. When we tack it up tomorrow, the 45ish will be squeezed tight to the bottom of the core support.

I keep calling the stock aluminum chunk a core support. I don't know the name for it other than it was used in conjunction with the core support. I'm winging names here, ok? lol

Wow, I just received a text saying my Fragola shipment will be here tomorrow. Looks like I can wrap up the catch can and coolant system!

madwi

Last pic is a great shot. moving forward man. You better have this thing rolling for the Spring/opening of driving season meetup at my place.

gbrettin

Thanks man. I honestly don't see why it couldn't be ready next spring. The goal is to keep pressure on the build until complete. Heck, I try getting out to the shop to do one/two small things just to keep momentum.

I probably should make a list of the next set of things to get done... I'm pretty sure you guys MIGHT have picked up on this... but I tend to go all over the place and I also go on extended tangents until I hit a mental stopping point where I feel satisfied/completed. The carbon fiber hood excursion was a pretty good example. lol. Well, TBH the whole build reflects my personality.... Didn't really think about that until just now.

gbrettin

Welded up the bottom mount. My buddy did... I watched and learned. After he welded that up, wanted to fix how the top mount aligned with the bar. The top was slit and then I mashed the bar back with a hammer. after that it was welded.

The fittings came in so I doubled back to the house to pick them up and then came back to the shop to run the oil catch lines. Of course I ordered the wrong ORB fittings for the back of the breathers so I couldn't attach the whole thing like planned.

The lines were wrapped up on the coolant, because that only needed one fitting (previously mentioned).

The crash bar needs to come back off for a little grinding and paint... but it's pretty much done. I took some of the tape and plastic off so I could get some decent pictures. I've got to say, It was worth the extra efforts.

gbrettin

Filled in a gap with metal instead of attempting to fill a large gap with weld. While setting up the crash bar in the vice I managed to slice my finger open. That's why I have a shop bandage on. Which is ironic, because I was grinding it for paint and so that it doesn't happen.

So the coat of paint is possible temporary because the crash bar will likely get powder coated. Also, I need to grind a few spots back to bare metal and weld tabs on for the air box to the radiator (eventually).

Ordered a couple -12orb to -10an for my Motion Raceworks billet valve breathers. Also, 8 1/4NPT SS bungs are FINALLY coming for my EGT (exhaust gas temp) sensors. Those were ordered in February, covid messed up the supply chain big time for that. Speaking of what's not here... Remember when I ordered my K&N filters? Those are not here yet either. Oh well.

Not sure if I said this before, but I've been waiting on Brian Tooley shaft mounted rockers. I need shaft mounted rockers to prevent deflection/movement on the pushrods. Well, if they don't come through... I'm going to order some of these.
LS Series Chevy GM Casting Cathedral port

I also need to order one more item for my engine too. Crank scraper w/ attached windage tray. Improved Racing has a great option.
3.622" Stroke LS, Vortec Engine Crank Scraper & Windage Tray Kit EGM-73X

Rusty

If you tried to fill in that gap. Most likely it would have distorted. It can be done. Put a piece of copper behind it and use it for a back up bar. (The back up bar is to keep the puddle from falling out.) Then slowly weld a little and let it cool. And do it again.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html