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The New "What did you do with your Z today" (with off topic replies) XXXII

Originally Posted by FPenvy i cant believe wheel locks for the GTR (or any nissan car) is $70 on their site. the more insane part is that how does my

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Old 04-16-2019, 03:58 PM   #6706 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by FPenvy View Post
i cant believe wheel locks for the GTR (or any nissan car) is $70 on their site.

the more insane part is that how does my Z come with them but i gotta go buy a set for the GTR. i just dont trust people and want to get a set for peace of mind.
GT-R tax.
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Old 04-16-2019, 04:01 PM   #6707 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by JLarson View Post
Could get a cannister of liquid nitrogen and shrink the bushing. Just saying
Then watch your fingers break like a piece of glass.
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Old 04-16-2019, 04:05 PM   #6708 (permalink)
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A 4lb BFH didnt work. Hammered away from the rear for a good 2 hours. Tried from the front, not budging. I called SPL and told them my predicament. They said as long as the rear bushing nut has enough bite on the bolt threads I should be ok.
Who did you talk to at SPL? Turner?

You can always drop the sub-frame for more clearance to swing a heavier BFH.

You hate me enough now as is.
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Old 04-16-2019, 04:14 PM   #6709 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by JLarson View Post
Yup. Chosen color schemes don't even look good.
Just saw a 1972, 240 white w/ red interior & red stripe along the rockers go for 40k it had a rotisserie restoration & was nice..... but the color scheme but people bid that Thing up to 40k
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Old 04-16-2019, 04:19 PM   #6710 (permalink)
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Lol... I dont hate you. My fault for not being more careful. I didnt get the guys name, but he sounded young. I spoke to my transmission guy, and he said just get the nut in, torque it, some jb weld and call it a day. I could drop the subframe, but if that thing wont budge with a sledge hammer, then I'll be going nuts...
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Old 04-16-2019, 04:19 PM   #6711 (permalink)
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Just saw a 1972, 240 white w/ red interior & red stripe along the rockers go for 40k it had a rotisserie restoration & was nice..... but the color scheme but people bid that Thing up to 40k
A '72 went for 33k at Barrett Jackson over the weekend. I don't think it was a rotisserie resto.
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Old 04-16-2019, 05:24 PM   #6712 (permalink)
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Old 04-16-2019, 05:43 PM   #6713 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bunk View Post
Lol... I dont hate you. My fault for not being more careful. I didnt get the guys name, but he sounded young. I spoke to my transmission guy, and he said just get the nut in, torque it, some jb weld and call it a day. I could drop the subframe, but if that thing wont budge with a sledge hammer, then I'll be going nuts...
That burr could be 3/4's of the length of the bushing. The farther it went. The bigger it got. Now it's acting like a wedge lock. On the bright side. You don't have to worry about the bushing moving.

I could get it to move. A 10 ton porta-power with a c clamp press.
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Old 04-16-2019, 05:47 PM   #6714 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
That burr could be 3/4's of the length of the bushing. The farther it went. The bigger it got. Now it's acting like a wedge lock. On the bright side. You don't have to worry about the bushing moving.



I could get it to move. A 10 ton porta-power with a c clamp press.

I need me one of those. No reason whatsoever, but I want one.
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Old 04-16-2019, 06:09 PM   #6715 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
That burr could be 3/4's of the length of the bushing. The farther it went. The bigger it got. Now it's acting like a wedge lock. On the bright side. You don't have to worry about the bushing moving.

I could get it to move. A 10 ton porta-power with a c clamp press.
You think the stud on the diff has enough sheer strength since it wouldnt be a snug fit to the bushing?
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Old 04-16-2019, 06:12 PM   #6716 (permalink)
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I need me one of those. No reason whatsoever, but I want one.
Smashed fingers are my best memories of using them. Had one that went up to 75,000 psi. Didn't have a flex hose on it. It had thick diameter stainless tubing.
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Old 04-16-2019, 06:22 PM   #6717 (permalink)
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You think the stud on the diff has enough sheer strength since it wouldnt be a snug fit to the bushing?
Think you would be ok. By the looks of it. You're only about 1/8" away. What I would do. Install the diff. Just start the rear bushing nut a couple of threads on. If you go too tight. You won't be able to move the diff. Plus the diff will be too far to the rear to install the 2 front bolts. Install the front 2 bolts by hand, about half way. You will have to wiggle the diff around some to get the front 2 bolts starts. Once started, Do not use an impact on them until you are half way threaded. If you use an impact too soon. You can cross thread one one the bolts. Once the front are snuggled. Tighten up on the rear nut.
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Old 04-16-2019, 06:26 PM   #6718 (permalink)
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Think you would be ok. By the looks of it. You're only about 1/8" away. What I would do. Install the diff. Just start the rear bushing nut a couple of threads on. If you go too tight. You won't be able to move the diff. Plus the diff will be too far to the rear to install the 2 front bolts. Install the front 2 bolts by hand, about half way. You will have to wiggle the diff around some to get the front 2 bolts starts. Once started, Do not use an impact on them until you are half way threaded. If you use an impact too soon. You can cross thread one one the bolts. Once the front are snuggled. Tighten up on the rear nut.
Yeah, Ill do this friday. If the nut doesnt have enough bite, Z1 has a used subframe for sale...
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Old 04-16-2019, 06:31 PM   #6719 (permalink)
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Apropos of nothing, anyone have experience removing a stuck compression tester adapter from a CRV?

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Old 04-16-2019, 06:33 PM   #6720 (permalink)
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Apropos of nothing, anyone have experience removing a stuck compression tester adapter from a CRV?

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