CJM 370z had boost envy, problem solved...

phunk

That was when the clutch was toast! Before the clutch went out, that vette and I were running almost identical, cept I was a little faster

That video is from the very last pull i made, after letting the clutch cool for a hour to see if it would hold or not. That was my 1.847 60', 12.649 / 83.21mph

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jlo370z

could tell you hit the brakes before you got close to the end, ive been wanting to take mine to the track, but im afraid i will roast my clutch or have no traction.

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❝The Jlo370Z Build❞
523HP | 455 ftb tq | 11.5 PSI | 93 Octane
2017 Porsche 991.2 C4!l

phunk

Ya on the bad runs I pushed hoping it would do OK because it was still moving out well in first gear, but by 3rd the car would just stop pulling well so I left off somewhere in there.

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RoyaltyB

Not sure if you posted or not, but did you ever figure out or resolve the issue you faced that day with the clutch?

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Fast Intentions Stage 1 TT / F.I. 2.5 CF CBE / SpecialtyZ Max Street Clutch / F.I. 34 ROW OIL COOLER / VALENTINE ONE W/BLENDMOUNT / LAKERS LICENSE PLATE FRAME (GOTTA REP THE PURPLE AND GOLD )

phunk

No I havent opened it up yet.

Due to the way its behaving, I have a slight suspicion of the pressure plate being damaged from over-extension.

I originally did the clutch and CSC at the same time, so I am not sure if the way my clutch has always been was just because of the clutches natural characteristics alone, or if the CSC was involved in making it this way. But it has always been an on/off switch at the VERY top of the pedal. I had to push the pedal down maybe 15% to be fully disengaged. I dont know if these clutches are all like that, or if the CSC i have in there is too small a diameter and travels too far with the stock master.

Being an on-off switch, I had to adjust the pedal to put it either at the top or the bottom so that it was easy to find. Well the bottom sucks for racing so I went with the top. I always wanted to put a pedal stop there so that the pedal would only go down 40-50% and move the start switch, but I never did.

My driving adapted and I never pushed the clutch down more than probably 25% unless starting the engine or driving all out where I just kick the pedal to the floor real hard.

This day at the track was just a whole lot of slamming that pedal to the floor and combined with the age... I wonder if I fatigued the pressure plate fingers with over extension or something. I dont know. Never seen anything like that personally... but it seems possible based on how far past disengagement it was going.

My reason for believing this is because not only has it lost its ability to hold power before slipping, but the pedal characteristic has entirely changed and now the clutch starts grabbing right off the floor and is very easy to modulate.

OR I am just over thinking it, and its just burned out. This clutch has never seen that much riding before as I rarely attempted to launch my car due to no traction what so ever.

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Nissan370

wow man this is great stuff.
now i am even more interested in seeing what kinda of power i can make on a built motor
also e85 looks like 100hp over normal 93oct gas easy
my goal for spring is to hit the 600's on pump gas i will need more boost because i am on a low compression engine but i am truly loving these numbers

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370z vsr motorsports single turbo/built motor 9.1cr 525rwhp/450rwtq @ 10.5psi (stock maf maxed out)

TopgunZ

WTH? Where have I been? I guess there IS a thread for this. I remember asking on a different thread after I seen your sig.

Got the S1 kit btw. Still waiting for my built motor to get back from the machine shop then ill be installing this.


For those pushing the limits... Remember, a lot more can go wrong than just a bent rod. My piston disintegrated and took out the crank, block, oil pump, head and now I have metal shavings in my oil lines and cooler. Ended up costing me a lot more than if I had just built it when it was still in one piece.

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ROTREX SUPERCHARGER TUNER KITS - $6799/ CUSTOM STILLEN AIR TO AIR KITS -$2100/ 700+ WHP!! WWW.TOPGUNSPEEDWORKS.COM

theDreamer

That is very true, pushing the limits almost anything can happen.
One reason I am curious if phunk cracks open is block this winter and see what is stressed, any unusual wear that has occurred.

It is great to see people able to push these blocks as far as they can, especially 4 years ago when the first SC/TT kits were put on and people were at 500whp and everyone thought that might be the limit.

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theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN
theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY
Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram

Patrick@AAMComp

Food for thought.. On occasion we use Blackstone Labs. They can provide a great analysis for what's going on inside your motor without tearing it down.

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Luis R.

aamcompetition.com

theDreamer

I wish I had done one of those when I was N/A or stock to have at least a starting place with my car.
I should probably do one since I am approaching 100k miles, and been boosted since 19k.

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theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN
theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY
Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram

Chuck33079

I just budget the cost of an analysis into every oil change. It's nice to be able to see trends and not just spot checks.

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

jwick

Me too! Real interested in what the first one post-turbo looks like.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

TopgunZ

You havent put 3K on your ride since the install yet?

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ROTREX SUPERCHARGER TUNER KITS - $6799/ CUSTOM STILLEN AIR TO AIR KITS -$2100/ 700+ WHP!! WWW.TOPGUNSPEEDWORKS.COM

phunk

I just play dumb because ignorance is bliss and thus my motor remains intact

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jwick

Nope. Sitting at about 2500-2600. I did change oil post dyno tune which was another 500ish miles and the G isn't my daily driver.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build