CJM Mini FP Gauge Kit

m3chhawk

annnnnd ordered

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valpozguy

So what's up? Did it ship out?

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phunk

Post office has been down for 2 days now. Changed it to FedEx today and ate the cost. Yes it shipped and you were already emailed tracking.

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phunk

Post Office is back up!

Down to 5 left in billet, and there are 7 left of the anodized ones coming back.

Guess I will have to make another batch of these soon.

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jwick

Set a billet one a side for me cuz that baby is sold as soon as the GReddy sensor comes in!

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

martin82

would like a blue anodized if possible to match my JRZ rs pro blue lol!!

jwick

Only doing billet or black. No other colors. I'd probably have gone blue too since it matches my theme

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

phunk

I anodize parts blue every 4-6 weeks... so I could do that. however, our shade of blue is a sort of deep blue.. not quite a navy but almost. It would be no effort for me to toss a pair of them in the blue bin.

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jwick

I'm cool with billet or blue. When it comes to a G you'll never see it since the enginer cover, covers it. I'll take whatever you keep in stock when it's time for my shipment. If it's blue, cool. If not billet is fine with me.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

valpozguy

Thanks for your quickness and responds to the shipping and questions.

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sixpax

I got mine today ... thanks for the prompt shipment Charles. Nifty packing job, and the parts are very, very nice looking. More bling bling, and functionality ! Hopefully I don't catch anything on fire putting it on, I am fairly clutsy.

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phunk

Brief installation notes:

Let the car sit for a few hours before installation so that both the engine and fuel can cool, and so that at least a few psi of the fuel pressure can seep out before opening the line.

Either hide the key, or disconnect the battery. If someone powers on the car during install, fuel is going to spray all over the place.

Tools needed:

10mm socket on a ratchet
5mm allen wrench
Roll of paper towls, or a bunch of rags.
thread sealant


A: Install either a 1/8 NPT plug, sensor, or pressure gauge to the front of the CJ fitting with thread sealant. You can use teflon tape or paste. If you use tape, just try not to let it hang over and get on the inside of the fuel plumbing.

B: Make sure you have everything: The CJ fuel tap (which is now plugged with either a NPT plug, or a sensor or gauge.), you should have 2 SS bolts about 1.5" long, and a pair of SS washers. Make sure the viton oring on the bottom of the CJ fuel tap is both installed, and looks healthy.

C: Locate the fuel line and damper input flange. It is located at the front end of the passenger side valvecover.

D: Surround yourself with several rags within reach, use one hand to hold the damper and line down, while removing the 10mm bolts. The fuel is under pressure, so do not take your hand off, keep holding the part down after removing the bolts.

E: Surround the entire area with rags, because there will be a brief blast of fuel when you lift up the damper and hose. You want to basically mummy wrap the area so that it all gets absorbed when you lift up. Make sure your eyes are protected from spray.

F: With the entire area protected from fuel blast, and with your eyes protected, slowly slowly lift up on the damper/hose. You have about 1/4" up to go before the fuel will start coming out. If you go slow enough, you can get the fuel pressure to just seep into your rags. I usually hold the rags tight around while I lift up to make sure they absorb it, and you can usually feel the rags get cold/wet as it soaks in. You will be able to tell when you are lifted completely off.

G: Once you are lifted off and away, you are safe to continue. Dry up any fuel that got away.

H: There is probably a small puddle of fuel down in the fuel rail inlet fitting. Dab a tiny bit of that fuel on the viton oring of the CJ fitting to lubricate it, and then slide the CJ fitting down into the fuel rail inlet flange.

I: Now install the fuel damper/line into the CJ fitting. Secure it using the 2 SS bolts and washers, and use the 5mm allen wrench to tighten.

J: You are done! Make sure everything is snug and dry.

K: go into the car, and turn the car on without starting the engine. To do this in a 6MT, act like you are going to start the car, but do not push the clutch in. It will just turn everything on without starting. I assume this is the same for a 7AT you just dont press the brake peddle down. Doing this will prime the fuel pump momentarily. It might not have been enough to build full pressure, but it should be good enough to go check for leaks and make sure the gauge is reading some pressure if you have one.

L: If you have any leaks, and you dont know why, do not start the engine. Post here, or contact me, or call a buddy mechanic... whatever you do, dont drive around with a fuel leak!


Anyone think of anything I am missing? I just typed this up out of memory.

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Rusty

Good write up. I found it best to just leave the Z sit over night before working on the fuel system. This way. All of the fuel pressure has bled off.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

phunk

I agree when that is an option... but you still have to take the measures because some cars will hold their pressure for dayyyys

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Rusty

I should of said "most of the pressure". Thinking back after I installed mine. Sometimes it would show 20 lbs or more the next day.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html