Fair enough guys. I understand your points.
There are people who ONLY rely on the Internet though... Just as an example... (not in this buy, but) MMC. He's even stated that he doesn't want to call them... That's just called lazy.

I really hope all of you guys get sorted out. I wish I could help more than just calling for people (maybe for those out of the country,) but I can't.

And I do hope the kit comes out sooner than later. I hope the wait is worth it. And hopefully the first time you mash the throttle and you hear your free upgraded turbos spooling, you'll forget about the wait.

:tiphat:

Im not sure who is lazy here? the people who paid or vendors who are not updating the thread?

I'm not lazy. I want Sam's answers IN PUBLIC. If it isn't obvious by all the posts of people waiting for their refunds and do call regularly, Sam is not honest over the phone. Promises go unkept. Let him come online and state things publically for all to see and hold him accountable over. These are all HIS threads. His marketing machine, that has now broke down.

Both you guys are making valid points and agree with both but arguing in between all of us is what they want. It keeps the thread alive. We need a place to vent complaints about certain companies on this forum the BBB I'm sure is involved by now.

Sent with TapAhoe

So I got my boost controller the other day.. :)

I see you are number 4. Are you fully paid? Just curious. I just got my exhaust, radiator, oil cooler, and boost controller in the other day as well. just waiting for the kit now. I m ready for some boost!

What exhaust are you running?
We had two 40+ degree (109-110) days here over the weekend which made me think about aftermarket radiators. I might wait and see what the temps are like first before deciding whether to go with aftermarket or not. Which one did you get?
Did you get the GTM oil cooler or just pickup a Setrab or similar from somewhere else?

I went with the CSF radiator. You might as well install it at the same time with everything else since the front end will be apart.

So is everyone getting an EBC? I was thinking I would just run spring pressure till ECUtek comes out with that functionality (if they ever do)...

CSF FTW!!! LOVE mine. I can't overheat it even if I try!!!

I would use an ebc for better boost control and more stable wastegate pressures.
I will be running the New Greddy Profec OLED. I only plan on increasing boost 1 or 2 psi over wastegate.

HKS EVC6 here. Electronic boost control is the way to go. Especially since you can set up boost ramp-up and boost by gear and things to make the car very responsive and stable. :tup:

I also liked the GReddy profec as well - great looking piece.

No doubt that the EVC6 and the GReddy are nice. If you're looking for an EBC that's less expensive but still has plenty of features, try looking at the Go Fast Bits G-Force II. I've heard nothing but great reviews on it.

I picked one up but haven't had a chance to install it yet. There are a few people with it on the forums, just can't remember the exact names.

http://www.gfb.com.au/products/boost...troller-by-gfb

I've read HKS manual, there is no boost by gear functionality only by RPM. But I found that Apexi AVCR has that feature.

The turbosmart eboost 2 also has boost by gear

The HKS EVC6 has boost by speed. I have never used it personally but there are several references to it in the installation manual

Apexi AVCR is super old school

Fast Intentions carbon fiber non resonated catback, csf radiator, and z1 24 row oil cooler.

Didn't find it also in manual of Turbosmart eboost 2, could you point me that?

Mmhmm. I plan on setting up my EVC6 for the boost by speed and slow the ramp up down in the first and possibly the second gear speeds so it's controllable from low speeds. I have faith I can make the car behave like a very powerful OEM car. :icon17:

These cars have the crappiest IRS configuration for dealing with high power. If you want to not spin in first and second you have to really dial the power back. If you take it up to over around 550rw, 3rd gear is useless without race compound tires. Factory powerful cars have a more ideal control arm arrangement that doesnt camber in another 3 degrees when you floor it.

I agree - the camber gain on the car is quite high. Of course, we are set with the pickup points we were given, so we gotta deal with it. :ughdance:

I think most of the traction issues can still be solved with a linear, slowed boost ramp-up and proper suspension set-up. Maybe switch the compound in the rear to a Toyo R888 or equivalent? If it were me and it was a drag event, I would even consider a positive camber setup for the rear. But either way, my car is just going to be a 500-550~ whp street car for myself, so it's nothing too competitive.

R888 made a HUGE difference for me at ~600whp, 2nd hooks much better with a bit of spin up top but never really steps out, 3rd is no longer an issue. I also have a 3.5 FD, quaife LSD, and whiteline diff bushings. the bushings alone almost eliminated wheel hop entirely which makes a huge difference.

My car is no turbo, but the centrifugal powerband really helps traction issues. I'm running stock re50's and first is the only constant issue when flat footing over 3500. Second gear is problematic in the cold and will spin after 5k. Normal driving is as docile as stock. Im thinking that some better rubber can fix most of it. You all and your turbos hit peak tq much lower and carry it to at least 6k before it starts dropping.

R888s in 305 30 19 I would spin through 3rd. Toyo TQ drag radial in 315/35/18 hook a little better. This is with like -1.0 or so baseline camber. I feel like the fresh Toyo R compound tires stop hooking so well after 2-3 weeks of daily driver duty.

RE-11s seem like the best balance - less noise, a bit longer lasting than the R888s, not quite as sticky but R888s lost their grip as they got old. SPL mid links have helped me keep the car straight even when it spins... able to maintain toe in spec even with zero camber.

I couldn't wait to get rid of my RE11s and my mileage from them was less than r888s due to constant spinning .

Glad I'm not the only one that feels like r888s harden up And loose their grip quickly.

I'm running Nitto Invo's on mine, they are pretty decent for NA but don't think they will hold up to the extra power after turbo install, they are however much better than the RE11's, less road noise and much better in dry and also the wet.

not sure what I'll try next, I've also tried Pirelli p-zero Nero, stay the hell away from these LOL.

How did you know Invo tire is better than RE11?

I have a hard time believing this as well.. My 305/30/19 Michelin PSS's are doing pretty well in warmer temps in 2nd gear @ 8PSI

when the stock Yoko Advans are done I will switch up to the Yoko ADO8R.

Should be a good balance of grip and longevity for a DD.

just remember the r888 treadwear of 100 is a lie, they die QUICK.

I'm with you; only driven with N/A (so far ;)), but the PSSs are great. Lightyears better than the stock Yoko Advans on the NISMO, and with 305/30/19 on the back, no traction issues... yet there will be so many in due time, hahaha.

Being stickier than rated is a good thing! ;)

Even in the summer they were spinning for you? Temps are a good bit hotter here in NC than IL and I found the RE-11 are not that bad (in the summer). I felt I could get R888s overheated and spinning in the summer here, but maybe that was because they were old at that point (about 12k miles!).

Anyway, I have not heard of anyone (with first hand experience) recommending tires that outperform the RE-11s (other than R888s) as far as street tires are concerned. I am considering trying competition tires (below 100 tread wear rating, e.g. Pilot Sport Cup+, etc).

Ya no matter what they would spin. Everything spins at least 1st and 2nd on a good day in my car at full throttle. But the RE11s would spin just from part throttle boosting around spirited. It was like having real skinny tires in the back. Its actually a lot of fun to drive... but it totally sucks when you want to have fun with the HP you paid a fortune for.

only if you have the money to replace your tires ever 3-7k miles:rolleyes:

This thread is all over the place

Im finding it useful!

My tires are currently bald and I'll be searching for new ones in a few weeks, so this info is helpful for me. No point me buying cheap tires now only to burn them off to quickly once the turbos are on.

Where here's the thing.. getting your car running without spinning in first gear is nearly impossible, the only way to do that is buy new tires and run them for first 5k Miles then throw them away and buy a new set and so on..

Chalres mentioned that these cars got bad IRS configuration. I think im gonna have to disagree with that. This car is actually perfectly balanced between power and handling.
I have ridden many other powerful cars and trust me, only few cars impressed me with their handling and grip rest were all dyno queen.

Now, as far as IRS configuration crap. unless you're compering it with Ferrari, Porsche, Austin Martin, ETC. this car is actually well balanced (besides the fuel starvation)