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Yet Another DIY GTM TT Install

At this point I think everyone knows that with a decent set of tools, the time, and proper experience, you can install a GTM TT kit yourself with the engine

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Old 04-11-2012, 10:47 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Yet Another DIY GTM TT Install

At this point I think everyone knows that with a decent set of tools, the time, and proper experience, you can install a GTM TT kit yourself with the engine in. I personally enjoy looking at other peoples builds so I figured I would post some pictures along the way with mine. The pictures aren't the best but I did what I could with my iphone while installing the kit.

The install is not complicated, but it is difficult doing this with the engine in. Clearances are tight, you are often working on your back reaching up into cramped spaces, its not for the faint of heart but it is completely doable, especially if you take your time. I work full time so I can only spend a few hours a during the week and my weekends have been a bit busy unfortunately. Despite that I've made some good progress so far and I'm over halfway done with the install, I will post up more pictures as the build progresses.

I'd also like to give a big thanks to Sam and GTM, you can tell they are very busy over there but he will still take the time to discuss any issues or questions.

Parts List:

GTM Stage 1 Twin Turbo Turn Key Kit (now running the stage 2 housings with a built engine)
GT2860rs .64 AR with internal wastegates
Bosch 650cc EV-14 Injectors
Walbro 255lph pump
Fuel pump voltage stabilizer kit
HKS spark plugs
AAM Oil Pan Spacer

Ceramic coated manifolds, turbine housings, and down pipe adapters
Wrapped CNT resonated test pipes
AAM 2.5" catback

HKS EVC-S Boost controller
PLX AFR and Boost sensors with DM-6 multi touch gauges

Quaife ATB LSD with 3.5 Final Drive
Southbend Stage 4 Clutch
Competition Clutch flywheel
ZSpeed CSC

Last edited by esfourteen; 01-20-2014 at 05:52 PM.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:47 AM   #2 (permalink)
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These first set of pictures are unfortunately horrible quality because I forgot to check the "high quality" option when uploading to facebook, epic fail =(

Ready for the install


Twins!


Lots of parts


Removing the exhaust housings for ceramic coating


Parts going to the ceramic coater


Pump, relay, injectors and plugs






Fuel Pump assembly


Stock pump and walbro with install kit


Ready to go back in


Time to swap the injectors, intake manifold and injector rail removed


Stock injectors


Bosch injectors installed, NOTE: when you install these injectors the plug adapters must all be on the OUTSIDE of the rail, if they are on the inside they will touch the runners and could lead to failure with vibrations over time.


HKS spark plugs, for when you need some baller spark



Removing the stock exhaust manifolds, this was one of those parts that wasn't fun...




As you can see the passenger side has MUCH more room, it appears that the engine sits slightly closer towards the driver side




Another one of the more difficult parts, drilling and tapping the passenger cylinder head. The best way to do this is using a 90 deg air drill, or a 90 deg chuck adapter if you don't have access to air tools.


Patience is key here, you will be drilling on your back reaching up into this area, it looks like theres a lot of room but you need to reach over the aluminum subframe and steering rack, you forearms will be angry with you in the end.


You can see the 2 blank spots that need to be drilled/tapped on the last cylinder port here


I had to cut about 1" off each drill bit in order for the drill to clear the firewall, the guide GTM provides makes the drilling part pretty simple, its hard to fcuk this up. Drilling aluminum doesn't take a lot of effort, but make sure you use some wd-40 or other metal cutting lubrication so your bits last.


This is the part you need to be careful doing, screwing this up is not an option. I found it was best to tap the threads from above, again use wd-40 or similar lubricant. Be sure to check your angle of the tap as you start threading it in.


Testing the new threads, great success!


Now I decided to do the motor mount spacers, this turned out to backfire slightly. NOTE: If you space the engine before installing the manifolds you will have to remove the bottom rear stud on the driver side in order to get the manifold to fit, then re-install the stud after. It wasn't that big of a deal but i was scratching my head for about 15 minutes trying to fit the damn thing.









Just a shot of the car in pieces


I chose to install an AAM oil pan spacer instead of drilling/tapping the upper oil pan. This gives an extra quart of capacity and also has built in turbo oil return ports. NOTE: The steel oil pan will sit slightly lower than the front cross beam and steering rack, for some this is a deal breaker but I don't slam my cars so I am not as worried.



Pickup tube spacer


I RTV'd the adapter to the pan first and then immediately installed onto the upper pan, you dont want to wait too long as the RTV will start drying and you will not get a good seal.





I finally got my exhaust components back from ceramic coating, the coating is good for 2000F. Ceramic coating helps reduce engine bay temps and decrease spool time by increasing exhaust enthalpy (hotter exhaust gas flows faster).


Test fitting the actuators after clocking the turbos, NOTE: the actuators/brackets need to be installed AFTER the turbos are mounted.


Due to the angle at which the actuators sit, you need to bend the actuator arm tip slightly for proper function


Driver side manifold installed


Passenger side manifold installed


Passenger turbo installed, NOTE: you cannot install the coolant outlet bajo fitting or oil return tube until the turbo is installed.




Thats all for now!

Last edited by esfourteen; 12-11-2012 at 10:14 PM.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:47 AM   #3 (permalink)
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turbo oil feed distribution block


driver side oil feed routing


testing coolant feed clearance


vacuum sources


driver side oil and water lines installed, starter cable re-routed behind the engine


passenger side oil and water lines installed


driver side heat shield


passenger side heat shield


testing FMIC fitment


passenger turbo intake



fitting driver side hot pipe


oil cooler and passenger oil return


routing oil cooler and power steering lines




pvc fittings and wastegate source


have to cut the end of this stud off to clear the driver side cold pipe



FMIC and piping installed, bad @ss!




driver side hot/cold/intake



passenger side cold pipe/intake


passenger side hot pipe


passenger hot/cold pipes


passenger pvc breather


driver side hot pipe


passenger intake, oil cooler and power steering lines


passenger turbo complete!


wastegate line routing



GTM steering rack coupler installed


driver side turbo complete!

Last edited by esfourteen; 12-11-2012 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:48 AM   #4 (permalink)
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First start up, NO exhaust, the camera shakes when I rev it lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVI6jJY0oBE

Last edited by esfourteen; 04-29-2012 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:56 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Very nice! Congrats on tackling it yourself! Been there and it is tough. Can't wait to see the pics!
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:00 AM   #6 (permalink)
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nice in for results!
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:26 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Pre install pic??
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:56 AM   #8 (permalink)
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first set of pictures are up, unfortunately I have to go away this weekend for work so I won't get back to the car until next Tuesday, ugh.
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:54 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Bringing back memories! I just wish I had done the ceramic coating now. It seems like everyone is doing it.
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Old 04-11-2012, 01:27 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Old 04-11-2012, 01:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Very nice. Good pics and I dig the ceramic coating. Good idea there.

One thing I will mention. Watch those clamps on the fuel pump connections for the rubber hose. Those are just worm clamps and not EFI fuel hose clamps. I had something similar in my Challenger for a while and the clamps ended up cutting the hose as it softened from the fuel. Proper EFI fuel hose clamps have a rounded edge and no worm gear slots in them.

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Old 04-11-2012, 02:32 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dembflyr View Post
Bringing back memories! I just wish I had done the ceramic coating now. It seems like everyone is doing it.
Yeah this is something I knew I would be doing right off the bat, I didn't do it on my last build and I regretted it.

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Originally Posted by swiss370Z View Post
Sorry for my bad English!
I'm from Switzerland .....

But I love those photo strips ...

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Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy View Post
Very nice. Good pics and I dig the ceramic coating. Good idea there.

One thing I will mention. Watch those clamps on the fuel pump connections for the rubber hose. Those are just worm clamps and not EFI fuel hose clamps. I had something similar in my Challenger for a while and the clamps ended up cutting the hose as it softened from the fuel. Proper EFI fuel hose clamps have a rounded edge and no worm gear slots in them.
Yes this is a very good point, theres one spot on the pump install kit where I don't think you can use the EFI clamp, inside the bracket that holds the pump in, but it would be ideal to use these wherever possible. I try not to over tighten worm clamps to begin with as they do have that tendency to dig. If I ever had to go back in there I'd swap them out, but after spilling fuel all over my car I hope to never have to
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:10 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Dembflyr View Post
Bringing back memories! I just wish I had done the ceramic coating now. It seems like everyone is doing it.
You copy cats! haha looking good S, congrats!
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:13 PM   #14 (permalink)
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You copy cats! haha looking good S, congrats!
wait till you see my computer setup, you're really gonna think im copying you
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:21 PM   #15 (permalink)
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