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How much power do you think is safe on stock internals?

332 at the crank.

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View Poll Results: What is the WHP ceiling of stock internals?
400WHP 16 8.51%
450WHP 50 26.60%
500WHP 64 34.04%
550WHP 33 17.55%
600WHP 25 13.30%
Voters: 188. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 05-23-2011, 08:59 PM   #46 (permalink)
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332 at the crank.
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Old 05-23-2011, 09:05 PM   #47 (permalink)
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332 at the crank.
?
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Old 05-23-2011, 09:09 PM   #48 (permalink)
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332 at the crank.
yeah, I heard changing your intake filters to K&N can cause it to make so much power you will blow your motor almost immediately.
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Old 05-23-2011, 09:15 PM   #49 (permalink)
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yeah, I heard changing your intake filters to K&N can cause it to make so much power you will blow your motor almost immediately.


If you put a bird in there, you can achieve such seemingly outrageous compression ratios with great ease.

Ok let's get back on topic now...
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Old 05-23-2011, 09:49 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Hey guys, just taking a poll to see what people think is safe and what isn't. If you would like to add why and under what circumstances, that would be appreciated. Keep it civil please.

Also, lets talk dynojet numbers so we can all be on the same page and since both GTM and Stillen use them.
I posted this in another thread so i just Quoted my self

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Originally Posted by SAM@GTM View Post
The answer is: Nobody can determine what is "safe" vs. "unsafe" horsepower or boost for the motor. The real risk factor is always there. It can be minimized, but never eliminated.

There are two risk factors that we have to look at. First one is the compressive strength of the rod once fatigued, which we don't know simply due to the shear number of cycles a rod sees (the rod would have to sit in a fatigue testing cell for a couple years 24/7 to come close to modeling the cycles a rod sees in real life). The only thing we can do is base it on real life experience. This means how many engines have snapped a rod due to installing forced induction.

Back in the days of the 350Z, this answer was simple: 400whp was the limit...anything more, and you would need a built motor. Another thing I'd like to throw in there (I will cover in more detail later) is that it has been established is that supercharger cars had a longer life expectancy at higher power levels than twin turbocharged cars. The reason is simple: turbo cars make more torque and do so abruptly thus shock loading the rods and snapping them like so many toothpicks. Fast forward to the VQ37VHR. We noticed that the rods are beefier and it's almost as if Nissan was compensating for the more powerful higher reving engine. Here is a pic below showing the transition from the VQ35DE to the VQ35HR to the VQ37VHR.



Arguably, we have installed more forced induction kits on the VQ HR and VHR motor than anyone in the world. So far, these engines have shown a great track record. I think the reason for this success is a combination of a few things that have been improved over the older DE engine.

1) Better Internal Engine Components
2) More stable Main bearing caps
3) Better Combustion chamber design
4) Better cooling system design (cylinder heads are the first to be cooled down vs. the old DE engine which had the block being cooled first)
5) Better Head Bolts
6) Better Dynamic Timing Control

Finally and most importantly is TUNING. This is the key ingredient to maximizing the longevity of a forced induction build on a stock engine. Tuning is an art as well as a science and requires intimate knowledge of the components of an engine management system and how they all relate to each other. For example, the Nissan ECU has a Temperature Compensation table to alter the Ignition Timing Table based on what the MAF sensor sees. So, if the MAF sensor sees cold air, the ECU will advance the timing. We located the MAF sensors where we did for precisely this reason, so that we can give the ECU a real time indication of how hot or cold the air entering the combustion chamber really is. This is a critical part of saving the engine. We all know that when supercharging, our biggest challenge is IAT (Intake Air Temperature). Since the supercharger is a compressor, the air is heated up substantially and it is important to have the proper ignition timing for hot air/fuel mixtures. Here's a sample of how a Temperature Compensation Table is supposed to look (note that the hotter the air gets, the more timing gets pulled):





Another thing to keep in mind when it comes to these engines, is that although it is an 11:1 compression...that's static compression. Dynamic compression takes into account volumetric efficiency, so that means that the effective compression ratio changes throughout the power band. I can tell you from experience that there is no way in hell that we could run the timing table we use on the VQ37VHR on an earlier VQ motor.

That all said, I want to give you a visual guide to torque curves to help you all understand why you can have more horsepower on a supercharged car than you can on a turbocharged car. The graphs below show different twin turbo setups compared to the 523hp supercharged setup. Pay special attention to the peak torque and how hard torque comes on. Understand that peak torque represents peak cylinder pressures. So the less peak torque you have, the less peak cylinder pressures your engine is seeing and the less stress there is on the motor overall. Although the supercharger engine has to work harder to make the same peak power as the twin turbo car, is still has less internal stress as the torque grows in a linear fashion.






If you ask me what is the single most important thing that anyone can do to keep their forced induction system running as long as possible without building their engine, is to focus on the tuning aspect of the build and eliminate any detonation. Detonation is an uncontrolled explosion rather than smooth expansion of burning gas. Eventually, detonation will beat up the engine bearings, leading to excessive clearance and spun bearings. Even if the rod or piston doesn't break, you will still have premature engine failure.

In closing, the things to watch out for are as follows:

Peak Torque
Detonation
Air Intake Temperature Compensation
Fuel Quality

IMO a well tuned 500 RWHP has a lot better chance surviving then a 400RWHP that is not tuned correctly

Sam
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Old 05-23-2011, 11:55 PM   #51 (permalink)
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I saw it, thanks a lot Sam. Good Stuff.
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:34 AM   #52 (permalink)
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I think it all comes down to the trade-off between more power, a shorter life span. Strongly correlated with that is the $ investment as well as the quality of the work & maintenance performed.

At the end of the day - assuming a realistic tune (on a limited budget) - the trade-off will always be greater wear and tear as 99% of us are on a limited budget.

So, really, you probably need to work this one backwards:

1) How long do you want the car to last?
2) How much power do you want?

Out of those two variables results the required budget. So:

3) What's the required investment?

Out of these three variables you could create a pretty solid (and simple Excel) function (using either a sample via questionnaire or good experience figures from Z experts like Sam) - but it would still not necessarily account for the quality of the work and maintenance done on the car.

Sorry, the post is a bit theoretical in nature.
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:54 AM   #53 (permalink)
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I have a completely stock engine from japan. My first japanese sports car. Not my first japanese automobile. Had lots of toyota 4x4's. Got to say this is the first one I have had that burns oil. Not a good sign at all. As far as putting forced induction on this engine I would hesitate by all means. Not that I couldnt afford it, but just not a satisfied customer in this department. Im sure it is a good engine as long as someone looks after it and does scheduled maintenance. I would not put my wife in a nissan if it requires the oil checked every 1,000 miles. Really like the automobile but they are making it really hard. By my experience I have a 2006 chevrolet truck with 120,000 miles, I run 10w30 castrol, and I have never added oil to it one time. Not trying to talk bad about the japanese but it seems like the technology of foreign cars is coming to an end. I really like my automobile but all the talk I have heard before is not stacking up
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Old 05-24-2011, 02:56 AM   #54 (permalink)
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I have a completely stock engine from japan. My first japanese sports car. Not my first japanese automobile. Had lots of toyota 4x4's. Got to say this is the first one I have had that burns oil. Not a good sign at all. As far as putting forced induction on this engine I would hesitate by all means. Not that I couldnt afford it, but just not a satisfied customer in this department. Im sure it is a good engine as long as someone looks after it and does scheduled maintenance. I would not put my wife in a nissan if it requires the oil checked every 1,000 miles. Really like the automobile but they are making it really hard. By my experience I have a 2006 chevrolet truck with 120,000 miles, I run 10w30 castrol, and I have never added oil to it one time. Not trying to talk bad about the japanese but it seems like the technology of foreign cars is coming to an end. I really like my automobile but all the talk I have heard before is not stacking up
You should get your car checked out/inspected by the dealership for oil consumption issues. That is definitely not a normal this for the Z or any other car. This is my 3rd Nissan car and I've never had any problems like that. One of them even had like 185k miles and was still running well. Definitely head to the dealership to get it looked at soon. Good luck
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Old 05-24-2011, 04:29 AM   #55 (permalink)
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You are actually asking the wrong question, as the proper answer is "it depends" - mostly on the duration that Wide Open Throttle is held given a specific power setting. It can also depend upon the load generated in the mid rev-range when you go from steady state throttle setting (usually around 15-20% throttle position) to WoT, especially when revs are high enough for a FI setup to be capable of generating peak boost.

If the ignition map is not top-notch, all it will take to kill the engine is one or two "knocks" (detonation's) - you break a piston, or bend a rod which cause rod-breakage and catastrophic engine failure.

My mates at Air Power Systems reckoned on the Z33 that their TT kit was safe (their word was "durable") for ~300kw atw with stock internals. This is ~400hp atw. Since the Z34 shares a similar bottom end, I reckon this is not far away.

I am not saying that you cannot tune for higher numbers and not kill an engine, because if the car is a dyno-queen and only ever pulls numbers on the rollers, then the full load only exists for a short (small number of seconds) of time, and you can set knock control to be very conservative.

With a more aggressive ignition map, engine life at similar power levels might be milliseconds.

IMHO - the question is not valid as it needs to be more fully qualifed, as most of the later posts have indicated ... it is about "how long" you expect the engine to live.

RB

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Old 05-24-2011, 07:17 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Ehh, I've seen cars that knock continuosly for months before they break, so that's not that accurate.
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Old 05-25-2011, 12:14 PM   #57 (permalink)
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There are few factors that go into what can considered safe whp for stock block.

1.Tune this is the most important
2.Type of fuel being used 91vs 93
3.Driving habits, this is very import most people have 400-500 whp or more and dont use it.

With everything being perfect I would have to say 500whp, but hey a bad tank of gas can kill your motor.

This motor is very good with its upgraded rods over the DE VQ from before but it still has cast pistons.
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Old 05-25-2011, 03:46 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Rooskey View Post
I have a completely stock engine from japan. My first japanese sports car. Not my first japanese automobile. Had lots of toyota 4x4's. Got to say this is the first one I have had that burns oil. Not a good sign at all. As far as putting forced induction on this engine I would hesitate by all means. Not that I couldnt afford it, but just not a satisfied customer in this department. Im sure it is a good engine as long as someone looks after it and does scheduled maintenance. I would not put my wife in a nissan if it requires the oil checked every 1,000 miles. Really like the automobile but they are making it really hard. By my experience I have a 2006 chevrolet truck with 120,000 miles, I run 10w30 castrol, and I have never added oil to it one time. Not trying to talk bad about the japanese but it seems like the technology of foreign cars is coming to an end. I really like my automobile but all the talk I have heard before is not stacking up
as an unhappy customer you should be telling this to nissan and get your issues worked out.
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Old 05-25-2011, 06:00 PM   #59 (permalink)
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yeah, I heard changing your intake filters to K&N can cause it to make so much power you will blow your motor almost immediately.
That's what Nissan will tell you as they void your warranty.
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Old 05-25-2011, 07:35 PM   #60 (permalink)
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That's what Nissan will tell you as they void your warranty.
Haha, or at least try... The law is actually on the consumer's side to the extent that the dealership must prove that whatever they are not covering under warranty was caused directly by the modification you made. Easier said than done in a lot of cases.
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