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Need advice for 370z mainly track

Why are you ******* with parts swapping We havr already warned you of the dangers if buying a USED car with forced induction. This isnt a turbo car stock, you

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Old 12-01-2021, 01:23 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Why are you ******* with parts swapping
We havr already warned you of the dangers if buying a USED car with forced induction. This isnt a turbo car stock, you have no idea if the work was done properly; hell, you never really know whats been done

Buy the car closest to stock and get the mods you specifically need

Moreover you have been told that track experience is WAY more important than power at your current level


All of this sounds like jumped in and lit a buncha on fire bc you didnt do any research.
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Old 12-01-2021, 05:47 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Your plan to shuffle parts around sucks. Stop making bad plans.

So all of these cars were dumped at a used car dealership? They're all completely ******. You don't trade in a boosted Z at a used car lot unless it's completely beat.

But, you've been told a dozen times here what you should do. There's really no point in continuing this thread. Go make your mistake and learn from it.
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Old 12-01-2021, 07:27 AM   #3 (permalink)
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None of any at used car dealership.
I am here for suggestion, and I will listen.
09 will be selling for sure.
And i am during the process of buying 2015.
I will keep the 2015 one.
Will NOT TOUCH 11 nismo.
Thanks again

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Old 12-01-2021, 12:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Why are you guys recommending him Florida shops?

His location is Toronto

For a major metropolitan area like that, surely there are local clubs that can help him get track time with instruction and various tuning outlets that can set up his suspension or, down the line, turbo his car properly
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Old 12-01-2021, 12:20 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Why are you guys recommending him Florida shops?

His location is Toronto

For a major metropolitan area like that, surely there are local clubs that can help him get track time with instruction and various tuning outlets that can set up his suspension or, down the line, turbo his car properly
Not so much the shop locations being recommended, more so the tuner themselves, who can e-tune of course.
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Old 12-01-2021, 12:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Having the car looked over by a trusted shop and remedy any (hopefully minor) issues before you take it out and start beating on it would be an idea, assuming due diligence is done on the front end and you don't buy a clapped out junker.

Outsourcing labor is obviously more expensive, but your Sunday afternoon schedule will be clear and grease, road grime, and frustration free.
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Old 12-01-2021, 05:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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This has been entertaining! I am the guy that did things backwards. I TT my Z and then decided to take it to the track. It was a blast and it came with many consequences. I had no idea that I was going to fall in love with tracking my Z so it became an up hill battle with all kinds of little and big issues. I lost track days and the use of my Z for all the reasons people have provided you. Having all that power even at low boost hindered my learning curve. It is much easier to learn and improve quickly in a slower car than one that is trying to kill you the faster you get. I don't think Ivam wrong when I say every boosted track guy has had significant downtime because of something breaking or troubleshooting shooting weird chit. You need another vehicle and expendable cash if you want to be boosted. My motor lasted three years at the track and the car has been under the knife for the last three years.

My advice, by a NA Z and enjoy it on the road and use the turbo/supercharger money and buy a Miata for the track. It will be cheaper in the long run and when you are ready for a go fast car you can continue to track until you boost your Z. At that point you can sell the Miata for what you paid for it. Even if you go to the track with an NA Z you will be surprised how fast it is and how slow you will be.

Just to give you a little perspective. My track times in my boosted Z when my motor blew were slower at some tracks than my times in the the Miata after I learned how to drive and not rely on horsepower. I love instructing newbies that think they can drive because they are fast driving canyon roads. I scare the crap out of them if the decide they want to do a ride along in the Miata, LMAO!


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Old 12-01-2021, 09:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
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LISTEN to Hotrodz. He's been there, and lived it. And still paying for it. The man has a bucket full of experience and still has some luck left in his other bucket.

If the OP wants to see Jesus. He should drive a track prepped Viper. That will give him a new outlook on life.
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Old 12-01-2021, 10:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
LISTEN to Hotrodz. He's been there, and lived it. And still paying for it. The man has a bucket full of experience and still has some luck left in his other bucket.

If the OP wants to see Jesus. He should drive a track prepped Viper. That will give him a new outlook on life.
I got you guys. And I don't want to be there.
I will get the 2015 N/A one, and finish the cooling mods before track days.

Are these need to done before track days?
Z1 34 Row Oil Cooler,Brake Cooling kit, Brake Ducts, Diff Cooler, diff cover, SPL Solid Diff bushing kit, oil pan spacer.

These will be better to have I guess.
Z1 Power Steering Cooler,
Z1 Stainless Steel Hydraulic Clutch Line
ZSpeed Aluminum Under Pan Diffuser,
Hotchkis Billet Sway Bar Brackets,
Hotchkis rear Sway Bar,
Spl rear end link,
SPL Rear Knuckle Monoball Bushings.

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Old 12-01-2021, 11:16 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ytian9 View Post
I got you guys. And I don't want to be there.
I will get the 2015 N/A one, and finish the cooling mods before track days.

Are these need to done before track days?
Z1 34 Row Oil Cooler,Brake Cooling kit, Brake Ducts, Diff Cooler, diff cover, SPL Solid Diff bushing kit.

These will be better to have I guess.
Z1 Power Steering Cooler,
[Z1 Stainless Steel Hydraulic Clutch Line Not needed
ZSpeed Aluminum Under Pan Diffuser,
Hotchkis Billet Sway Bar Brackets, Option
Hotchkis rear Sway Bar, Not needed
Spl rear end link,
SPL Rear Knuckle Monoball Bushings.
Start off with a 34 oil cooler. Good brake pads. Brake fluid. Some like Motul 600, or 660. Wrap the clutch line down by the exhaust with insulation. This will help from boiling the fluid. Bleed the clutch fluid with Motul 600 or 660. After you get faster, add parts as needed.

The brake ducts will come after a few trackdays.

If you inspect the rear diff and see a black streak on it. The rear diff bushing has failed. You then have a choice of different diff bushings. Solid or poly. I have the solid SPL in mine. At this point. when doing the diff bushing. You can change the diff cover. Be a good time to change the oem VLSD to a better LSD. There is a couple of them you can pick from. The diff cooler is for when you are using a clutch type LSD for the most part. Something like the OS Giken, Nismo Pro, Cusco. I have the OS Giken LSD.

The power steering cooler is not a bad idea. I have one. tip. Only fill it to the fill line. If you add more then that. You will have a mess on your hands when the steering fluid heats up and expanses. It will flow out of the cap.


Read some build threads. It will help you out. Here's mine.

Rusty's Nismo Journal
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