Project Nismo Turbo build

Gray Goose · 01-02-2020, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

Machines shops I talked too stated you just can't get them in tight enough to hold the cylinder. They were right. You can design
whatever you want, you will still be in the same boat.

Has there been any actual failures with the blocks that RJM did?

Spooler · 01-02-2020, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gray Goose

Has there been any actual failures with the blocks that RJM did?

Yes

GrayGhost · 01-03-2020, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

Machines shops I talked too stated you just can't get them in tight enough to hold the cylinder. They were right. You can design
whatever you want, you will still be in the same boat.

Do you happen to know if they machined the head and cylinder to match the closed deck insert?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Spooler · 01-03-2020, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GrayGhost

Do you happen to know if they machined the head and cylinder to match the closed deck insert?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, it was perfect. LOL, we are not talking about back yard shade tree guys. It's not the first one that had issues either.

Gray Goose · 01-10-2020, 10:31 AM

Headed to the engine machine shop today and discuss my ideas on closing the deck on my block. Hopefully they give me good news and agree to work with me on this project.

I haven't seen it done this way before and after talking to a few machinist we believe we have a good idea. But only time and testing will show the outcome.

Wish me luck, not devastation. This could be good for the community!

Elmo370z · 01-13-2020, 11:39 PM

Just make sure we don’t say the saying “I told you so”

Gray Goose · 01-14-2020, 01:27 PM

Well, there are no engine machine shops in the area that have the proper equipment to help with our plan. So.......I might have to switch gears.

Looks like I might just go ahead and wet sleeve the block.
$2,300 for the sleeve install and deck surfacing plus the $1,050 for the sleeves.

Spooler · 01-14-2020, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gray Goose

Well, there are no engine machine shops in the area that have the proper equipment to help with our plan. So.......I might have to switch gears.

Looks like I might just go ahead and wet sleeve the block.
$2,300 for the sleeve install and deck surfacing plus the $1,050 for the sleeves.

Make sure they are using a 3 or 4 axis CNC. If not, no go. You really need an experienced machine shop to do this. Contact Mazworx, they can help you out.

phunk · 01-14-2020, 02:22 PM

If you arent going for over 800hp, I would recommend just doing a normal piston and rod build and leaving the cylinders alone. Less is more, when it comes to getting to spend some quality time behind the wheel of your Z. You could do a mild build to get your car back on the road so you can enjoy it, and use a spare motor to climb down the rabbit hole of experiments and unreliability. If you go straight to that type of build right now, statistics predict the car will be parted out after 3-4 years of nightmares and a solid 30+ grand in the hole. Not trying to be negative... just seen this happen too many times.

Gray Goose · 01-14-2020, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

Make sure they are using a 3 or 4 axis CNC. If not, no go. You really need an experienced machine shop to do this. Contact Mazworx, they can help you out.

They have a 3 axis and they install sleeves everyday. He said the did the same sleeves on a VQ35 last year. No issues.

Spooler · 01-14-2020, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gray Goose

They have a 3 axis and they install sleeves everyday. He said the did the same sleeves on a VQ35 last year. No issues.

That makes me feel better about going with Darton MID sleeves.

Spooler · 01-14-2020, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

If you arent going for over 800hp, I would recommend just doing a normal piston and rod build and leaving the cylinders alone. Less is more, when it comes to getting to spend some quality time behind the wheel of your Z. You could do a mild build to get your car back on the road so you can enjoy it, and use a spare motor to climb down the rabbit hole of experiments and unreliability. If you go straight to that type of build right now, statistics predict the car will be parted out after 3-4 years of nightmares and a solid 30+ grand in the hole. Not trying to be negative... just seen this happen too many times.

That is what makes me nervous too.

phunk · 01-14-2020, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

That is what makes me nervous too.

Nobody likes when I tell them this... but almost 20 years in this industry I can promise anyone that it IS worth the money to have a spare engine when you have such a highly modified vehicle. The only exception might be if you have other highly modified vehicles to entertain you during your down time. If your big engine needs a break, you can swap to the bench warmer and keep it at 600hp or so and still love and enjoy the car. Its nearly impossible to stay in love with a car that is in pieces 90% of the ownership experience and a constant pitfall of cash. If you are actually getting to use and love it, it will be a lot easier to maintain a positive attitude about the car.

This is why I wont build the engine in the car anymore. You buy a core to build. Keep the stock engine stock and swap it back in if ever needed. It will still suck if the big engine has a problem and needs to come out, but at least you can be back in action 2 days later.

Spooler · 01-14-2020, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

Nobody likes when I tell them this... but almost 20 years in this industry I can promise anyone that it IS worth the money to have a spare engine when you have such a highly modified vehicle. The only exception might be if you have other highly modified vehicles to entertain you during your down time. If your big engine needs a break, you can swap to the bench warmer and keep it at 600hp or so and still love and enjoy the car. Its nearly impossible to stay in love with a car that is in pieces 90% of the ownership experience and a constant pitfall of cash. If you are actually getting to use and love it, it will be a lot easier to maintain a positive attitude about the car.

This is why I wont build the engine in the car anymore. You buy a core to build. Keep the stock engine stock and swap it back in if ever needed. It will still suck if the big engine has a problem and needs to come out, but at least you can be back in action 2 days later.

You read my mind. I am buying all new stuff, that way I can take all my good parts out of the blown motor and build another spare for a whole lot cheaper. I am on the fence about finishing my garage and installing a lift so I can do the swaps myself. Time is just my enemy. We shall see on getting my garage finished. I know I need to do it to save time and money. I have the skills and tools to do what I need to do also.

Elmo370z · 01-14-2020, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

Nobody likes when I tell them this... but almost 20 years in this industry I can promise anyone that it IS worth the money to have a spare engine when you have such a highly modified vehicle. The only exception might be if you have other highly modified vehicles to entertain you during your down time. If your big engine needs a break, you can swap to the bench warmer and keep it at 600hp or so and still love and enjoy the car. Its nearly impossible to stay in love with a car that is in pieces 90% of the ownership experience and a constant pitfall of cash. If you are actually getting to use and love it, it will be a lot easier to maintain a positive attitude about the car.

This is why I wont build the engine in the car anymore. You buy a core to build. Keep the stock engine stock and swap it back in if ever needed. It will still suck if the big engine has a problem and needs to come out, but at least you can be back in action 2 days later.

Guess I’ll just build my
Stock motor that’s in my
Trunk as a mild piston rod combo.

01-10-2020, 10:31 AM	#215 (permalink)
Gray Goose Base Member Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: LA Posts: 169 Drives: 2012 370Z Nismo #227 Rep Power: 6	Headed to the engine machine shop today and discuss my ideas on closing the deck on my block. Hopefully they give me good news and agree to work with me on this project. I haven't seen it done this way before and after talking to a few machinist we believe we have a good idea. But only time and testing will show the outcome. Wish me luck, not devastation. This could be good for the community! JARblue, Rusty, Hotrodz and 4 others like this.

01-14-2020, 02:22 PM	#219 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,655 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 944523	If you arent going for over 800hp, I would recommend just doing a normal piston and rod build and leaving the cylinders alone. Less is more, when it comes to getting to spend some quality time behind the wheel of your Z. You could do a mild build to get your car back on the road so you can enjoy it, and use a spare motor to climb down the rabbit hole of experiments and unreliability. If you go straight to that type of build right now, statistics predict the car will be parted out after 3-4 years of nightmares and a solid 30+ grand in the hole. Not trying to be negative... just seen this happen too many times. JARblue, Rusty, Hotrodz and 2 others like this. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph Last edited by phunk; 01-14-2020 at 02:24 PM.

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01-14-2020, 01:27 PM	#217 (permalink)
Gray Goose Base Member Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: LA Posts: 169 Drives: 2012 370Z Nismo #227 Rep Power: 6	Well, there are no engine machine shops in the area that have the proper equipment to help with our plan. So.......I might have to switch gears. Looks like I might just go ahead and wet sleeve the block. $2,300 for the sleeve install and deck surfacing plus the $1,050 for the sleeves.