I mean I know some individuals who occasionally post a Dragy run on their IG Feed. But since IG pages dont support public posts, I dont imagine you could have a group on there where you get random people posting their cars with dragy screenshots

Just keep up with me on Instagram to see how I do.

I watch DragTimes on Youtube also. Cool guy.

I am all setup. My phone mount is not that great. It is a vent mount. It's not high enough I don't think, but it will work for now. I am going to stick the Dragy on the roof behind the Syrius Wart... LOL

I played around with it. The darn thing even gives you the DA.

Hmm, I run a little bit taller tire 325/30/19 26.7in. diameter compared to 305/30/19 which is 26.3in. diameter. I may be able to do the whole thing in 4th. I am right at 3800rpm in 4th at 55mph. Testing is needed to figure it out.

Hmm, If I can do the whole thing at 25psi it may be the way to go.

Went out and played some today. It's 74deg and too cold. No traction even at 17psi. It needs to be 85 deg or I struggle with traction.

Too all the people who think they know best and what they think works, etc. Good luck. Don't message me about it. There are only two folks who can build them to last at 25psi of boost or greater. I expect a third shop to have one up and running shortly. Pay your price and take your chances. Leave me out of it.

LMAO, there is a short list of experts or there would be more than about a half to a dozen Zs running more than 800whp. Don't even talk about at 900 plus as that number is real small!!!

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Are you using a standalone boost controller or is the ECU controlling boost?

This. I've seen some debate as to whether or not you start right @ 60, but standard procedure is as Phunk said, start around 45 so that you blow through 60 already under full boost. UGR, Calvo, Nth Moto, and basically anybody else does it that way.

Standalone Boost controller for now. Weighing my options on which way I want to go. My R888r's are done. I need new back tires.

More interesting stuff of what a Motec can do.

Back tires are done. Time to order new ones. They are past the wear bars and heat cycled out. 8k miles and that's it. I could run them a little longer but I have no freaking traction.

Actually that is not to bad considering the way you drive!

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:iagree:

Yeap, 7k of daily driving killed them. LOL My driving habits have changed since Covid. Only out to have fun now. These last 900 miles or so have been spirited. LOL

At least y'all are boosted... N/A daily driving I got about 17-18K miles/yr and replaced the rear tires every 6 months. I can't wait until that 6 months is condensed into 12 weeks :driving:

I think I am going to run them until they are done done. LOL, I don't like to give them back with left over rubber on them.

It feels like the car is making more power. Guess we are getting broke in the rest of the way. I have been driving the hell out of it.

After getting boosted I went from buying tires once a year to twice a year and tha changed again when I started tracking. At that point I went from one set set of tires and wheels to three.

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For the readers of this authentic thread; I will be taking my long block to Mazworx for a Custom “Spooler-Build” on Saturday :hello:
This man has endured it all & has posted nothing but the Truth :tup:
You want your chit to perform & stay together, follow the one’s who’s been there & done that, good or bad ... he’s posted it all & been completely transparent with everything :iagree:

Thanks Spooler :tiphat:

:iagree:

Side note: I have to take some camber out of the rear. May need to raise the rear up a smidge. The other options is to modify the rear subframe with new pickup points. Brian at MA can do it. Not cheap though.

You Ask why change the pickup points? To correct the camber change when the car squats in the rear. It may be -1.5 static but the ramp rate of the suspension under compression the negative camber increases dramatically.

I think I am going to go out on that limb again and go a different route than normal. Brian has done this modification many times on Formula Drift cars. Just asked him for a price. I don't know if I want to know. Right now the car is just an animal and a handful to drive. I need to fix the issue before I chunk it in the ditch.

Car will go back next year. Price is not bad. I may just take the subframe out at the house and ship it up.

Or maybe buy a subframe and have it shipped there to not have your car down

LOL, you think it will go up for just one upgrade. Oh no!!!!! More on the list.

I went through 3 sets of drag radials on my Mustang, heat cycling them out far before any significant wear was on the tires. I would usually just drive that car around on the highways/interstates since that was really the only place I could use its power. On hot days I could smell the tire rubber heat just when I would stop for gas. I aligned it to remove all the toe in the rear (toe is additional friction/heat even when just driving straight), and then I stopped driving it at speeds over 60mph for extended times. The last set of drag radials I put on after that stayed stickier for me for much much longer, they are actually still on the car to this day... though I never drive that car anymore. But I used to only get around 2000-3000 miles of good traction from a new set of tires.

Even after correcting the camber gain, you should still raise your car. Having it low and stiff significantly reduces its ability to transfer weight to the rear, and I will bet that has a more potent effect on the grip than the camber gain. When you keep it higher, the camber gain is also drastically reduced. Justins Z was able to put down 700whp in second gear with 305/35R18 R888s, which we found to be quite incredible. While camber no doubt decreases your contact patch, remember that the pressure on the remaining contact patch goes way up, so when you cut your contact by say 50%, you have not lost 50% of your grip due to the doubled pressure (weight) on the remaining contact patch. Plus the tire will deform more and increase the longitudinal patch a little bit as well.

Is your battery in the back yet? Do anything you can to shift weight to the rear tires.

Yes, the tires are done. I am going to do the pickup point change, reduce camber, and will increase the height. Just got to make some adjustments. We shall see how all this turns out. I am just about 50/50 on weight distribution. Diff cooler and DSS axles in the rear. I am not in a big hurry. I just want to enjoy the car at the moment. I have some bigger fish to fry right now unrelated to car doings.

I am doing an "Exit stage Right" again and going my own direction. Will it work? We shall see. Traction is fun as heck. Getting pinned in the drivers seat is something to experience. Spinning is frustrating.

One 55 gallon drum of Ignite Red down the hatch.

Not sure if you guys have figured it out yet but I will save the Dragy for a 1/2 mile event. It is just too dangerous on the street. Way too much traffic, etc. It is just not worth it to me on the street. Folks can say what they want to. I don't care. The risks are just way to high.

New battery time. She is 7 yrs old.

Oh c'mon! At least show that you can smash my stock block 6.85 100-200kmh time Spooler! ;-)

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LOL, yeah. At a 1/2 mile event next year.

I dunno why new battery excites me, but it does....I dunno why. You going with regular size, or lightweight?

I’ve changed batteries 3 times on this FM chassis, I still wish there’s no need to tear out those trims....so stupid nowadays...

Mine is going on 10 years. :eek: