Noop....

Had me some fun today. Car is on rails and still fast as chit with R888r's. With the warmer weather my boost by gear/rpm is dang close. Need to work on it some more. I have the 2nd gear ramp a little too aggressive and knocking the tires off sometimes. I can do 3/4 throttle, and it will hook and book. I need to ramp it in a little sooner in order to not upset the tire.

It's great not having to wait on a tuner. I can do it whenever I want.

This may be useful option. Coolant pressure is at baseline and it still does the puky puky crap. Try this. They have pressurized and non pressurized.

https://us.gktech.com/products/z34-3...t&_ss=e&_v=1.0

It's been raining today. Got my new boost ramp ready to load in for some testing. Car is getting faster and faster. Never done this before so it is a learn as you go.

Would love to see some draggy times you've recorded.

If you don't have a draggy yet, please get one. I'm sure many here would be curious to see what kind of times you're getting.

You've gone farther than anyone else has in a 370Z man, props.

I am doing all the tuning myself. It takes time and my time is limited. I am on R888r's right now to see how it does. Once that is done, I will be on my drag radials which the tuning will be different. Yeah, I have a draggy. Dang rain all week. I will get there.
I am trying my best to get into the 4.xx with the R888r's. We shall see. If I turn it up too much with the drag radials, I will lose the trans.

I didn't have time to do any testing this weekend. It was full of honey do list work. Ugg.

I am playing around with running No thermostat. I am running a restrictor. Friend of mine removed his thermostat with no restrictor and the coolant temps acted stupid. Got really hot at idle, 220. He needed to slow the coolant down going through the radiator. He installed his 170 thermostat back in and engine temp ran normal. So, you need to run a restrictor if you remove the thermostat. He was monitoring with the Ecutek app. My car runs the same temps as if I was running the 170 deg thermostat with the restrictor.

Welp, the C8 ZR1's are not that fast. Our cars can be just as fast or faster and we don't have the pay the C8 ZR1 tax of $316,000. The MSRP was $216,000 plus the dealer markup of $100,000. PASS!!!

My car is doing great. Tuning the boost by gear is working very well. I can lay down 770whp in 2nd gear with no spinning on R888r's. I have 3rd gear tuned but haven't had the chance to drive it much. I went out today, but a thunderstorm blew in and cut the fun short. I am going to see in I can hook 827whp in 3rd on R888r's. All this tuning will change once I switch over to my drag tire setup. I am enjoying myself and that is all that matters to me.

Went for a drive the last couple of days. My car is doing excellent. IAT's are extremely good and coolant temps stay in check with no issues. My IAT's run 7 to 12 degrees cooler than ambient. Some folks are taking their hoods and front bumpers off to keep their cars cool. I don't have that problem. Coolant temps are excellent. 191 on the highway. I highest I have ever seen is 206 in stop and go traffic.

If you only have the factory temperature gauge it won't leave it's normal middle mark until the coolant temps hits 220 degrees. So if that is all you have you may not be able to see the actual coolant temp.

MAYBE in a drag race, down a prepped track, BUUUTT.....at that point I would be interested at the overall investment into the car in order to achieve the above (both money and sacrifices to creature comforts). IF it is possible for this performance to be achieved, I doubt the car would be enjoyable to drive on the street. Additionally, the c8 chassis will be WAY more capable in other types of situations, for instance road racing. The chicanes are gonna be more of a problem for a high HP rear wheel drive car with the engine in the front, compared to a mid engine chassis which has the engine over the rear wheels.

The only thing a C8 ZR1 has got going for it is a warranty and that is a big plus. One issue is a normal person won't be able to get one. They are hard to get an allocation for and cost a mint. Is what it is.

Just for clarification purposes, are you saying that making a high HP Z that is RELIABLE LIKE THE C8 ZR1 wouldn't cost a mint? I'm just trying to understand your take comparing a high HP Z being as capable in a straight line (assuming here as your initial post about the ZR1 didn't elaborate on this).
Again just trying to clarify things here, if you did mean in a straight line, are you also saying that a high HP Z (1,000 HP+ given the rating of a current gen ZR1) is also cheaper than the current MSRP of a ZR1? I understand you can't find one at that price, but that's not a fault of Chevy, that's dealership markup which is currently out of OE's hands. Last I checked the MSRP price of a ZR1, depending on trim and options, ranges between $175-200k. These cars aren't meant for normal people and are priced fairly for the intended market and performance demanded of said market.
I could be off here, but haven't you mentioned that you are deep in the six figures with your Z and have had to turn it down to make it reliable and enjoyable? So you should know this better than most, the Z is not anywhere near capable of the same bang for buck performance as a turn key, warranty backed and reliable current gen ZR1. Finally, your comparing an open deck (Z, no billet block option) to a closed deck (ZR1) with cast iron cylinder liners. :tiphat:

My car build is a heck of a lot cheaper than a ZR1 and I don't have to deal with all the BS of driving a Corvette. My wife's C7 Grand Sport stays in the garage most of the time. People are terrible. The only numbers I have posted of the last build is 900whp at 23psi of boost with a 10:1 compression ratio engine. My same Mazworx engine. I do have more. I just don't see the need. I built the car for me to enjoy, and I am doing just that.

I am having a good old time tuning in the boost by gear and rpm.