Originally Posted by URBiN~HURMiT (Post 3854533)

Thanks Spooler ...
I have checked in to it but always room for more input.
My car failed inspection here in NJ and as it is now it won't ever go thru inspection unless, as one tech put it, I return it to OEM status.
There were a few emissions systems that were removed/disabled (EVAP and EGR) and the Inspection facility could't read the ECU via the OBDII port.
Seems that it is locked out in some way...EcuTek ??? or ???.
Checked in to the Haltech ECU as well ... same situation as the Motec but less expensive.
MA-Motorsports --- Carl --- can tune the Motec.
Ray Shake was supposed to do it this upcoming winter but he has left the company.
Prime Motoring here in NJ (JR Tuning) can also do the Motec Tune.
JR Tuning is very familiar with Motec as he tunes the Subarus.
It's a 17 hour job by the time it is finished...more big BUCK$.
Still tossing this back and forth in my mind...EcuTek or Motec.
Will be waiting to see how it is when MA-M gets the bugs worked out.
Might have to stick with EcuTek although there is no one here in my area that will do a 370z Tune with it...the closest would be RAD or Vinny Ten ... and they are out in Long Island.
Won't go back to Vinne Ten.
All the 'issues' he 'Tuned' OUT of this blue 350z --- he 'Tuned' IN to my car.
Hot start, cold start, misfires, low power, stalling in turns...you name it...
See the link below.

https://youtu.be/d4eW4uCvSIU

My Z was Stillen Supercharged and tuned with UpRev at the time..
So we will wait and see what MA-M comes up with for now.
Again, I didn't anticipate not having someone up here willing to work on the car if needed.

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3854542)

The guy who reverse engineered everything on the 370z was on here. Vitviper was his username I think. He is the one who wrote the code (firmware) to make everything work as stock with a Motec 150. You can do a search and read the thread.

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3854542)

The guy who reverse engineered everything on the 370z was on here. Vitviper was his username I think. He is the one who wrote the code (firmware) to make everything work as stock with a Motec 150. You can do a search and read the thread.

Originally Posted by Memphis370Z (Post 3854559)

In the thread you linked to, you asked what happened to Vit. I believe he went to work for MoTeC about a year ago.

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3854850)

Well crap. When Daleon sent an email to ATS to spec the clutch they said I would be fine with a twin disk. Today, we found out otherwise during a dyno session. Ordering additional parts to convert it to a Carbon triple disk clutch. That is the good thing about ATS's kit, it is upgradeable. Just have to order a carbon disk, steel disk, and new pressure plate. MA is pulling the tranny now to inspect what we have to ensure it is OK. Those carbon disk aren't freaking cheap.

Originally Posted by redondoaveb (Post 3854852)

On the positive side, it must mean it's making good power.:driving:

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3854853)

Starting too. The clutch gave up the ghost.

Originally Posted by redondoaveb (Post 3854855)

Besides the extra cost, that should make you feel good. Making progress.

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3854878)

ATS Triple Carbon Clutch kits are very expensive. The twin was expensive also. Ugg, just fix it. It will be worth it in the end.

Originally Posted by sirnixalot (Post 3855011)

damn, one hit after another:ugh:

were they able to say (also if you're willing to share) at what torque the clutch started slipping?

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3856364)

wow...that's badass :driving:

I'm guessing you can't pair that 10 lb flywheel with other clutch setups :(

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3856369)

I got the 22.8 lb flywheel. I just didn't see a need in the 9.9 lb one. That one would be tough to drive on the street in traffic.

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3856369)

I got the 22.8 lb flywheel. I just didn't see a need in the 9.9 lb one. That one would be tough to drive on the street in traffic.

Originally Posted by Whjaxn17 (Post 3856648)

I DD mine w/ a 13lb flywheel w/ no issues. I love it and would do it again if I had the chance, but different strokes :tiphat:



edit: that is on a stock clutch, though, so not exactly a straight comparison

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3856823)

Clutch parts should be in next week. After they get it installed again, back to the dyno for more tuning. Hopefully everything goes good this time and no more issues. It's just part of modifying a car. Some are easy and some (my cars) are a pain in the butt.

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3856830)

Which pressure is your clutch?

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3856836)

I don't remember. It was good for 1100hp and 800ft/lb of torque. The torque parts is where I was lacking before. I'll find out when the parts come in.

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3856843)

You remember. You have it written down. You just ain't giving up the goods. I know you. :rofl2:

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3856848)

I don't write anything down. I just remember it. They call me the elephant at work. I remember stuff that happened 6 years ago. I just have to wait for it to roll up on the rolodex in my brain. Come to think of it, I don't think they told me. Eh, I will find out next week.

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3856850)

.................and you can't remember on what you had for breakfast this morning. :rofl2:

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3856852)

Sure do, one Mt. Dew. LMAO.

Originally Posted by URBiN~HURMiT (Post 3822446)

Here's the numbers I copied from the ExCel chart I made to convert the MA-M DynoLog to the DynoJet numbers.
It's a 17% factor

Heart Breaker +17%

DynoLog Dynojet


400 = 468
410 = 480
420 = 491
430 = 503
440 = 515
450 = 527
460 = 538
470 = 550
480 = 562
490 = 573
500 = 585
510 = 597
520 = 608
530 = 620
540 = 632
550 = 644
560 = 655
570 = 667
580 = 679
590 = 690
600 = 702
610 = 714
620 = 725
630 = 737
640 = 749
650 = 761
660 = 772
670 = 784
680 = 796
690 = 807
700 = 819
710 = 831
720 = 842
730 = 854
740 = 866
750 = 878
760 = 889
770 = 901
780 = 913
790 = 924
800 = 936
810 = 948
820 = 959
830 = 971
840 = 983
850 = 995
860 = 1006
870 = 1018
880 = 1030
890 = 1041
900 = 1053

Supporting info:

Why Our Mainline Dyno Produces More Accurate Results

Inertia Dynos - like DynoJet dynos, measure power based on the length of time it takes to "spool up" two heavy steel drums within the dyno. Horsepower numbers are much higher because they are based on distance traveled / acceleration rather than force, at least 17% higher than load bearing dynos in our experience. Cruising air / fuel ratios are generally richer because they are based on wide open throttle conditions.

Load Bearing Dynos - measure power based on the force applied to the rollers when the dyno brake is applied. Loading the engine gives us the ability to hold the engine at various loads for driveability tuning and maximum fuel economy. All Mainline dynos are load bearing dynos.

load bearing to inertia dyno horsepower conversion
ACCURATE, DEPENDABLE, REPEATABLE RESULTS
The Mainline Dyno is widely described as the "no fudge" or the "unfudgeable" dyno, and is the obvious choice for dyno operators who choose an honest approach to business and do not want to be caught up in the debacle about why the same car can get differing results on the same brand of dyno, why the same car can produce inconsistent results using different dyno "modes" or even why a dyno needs different "modes" for 4, 6 and 8 cylinder vehicles.

The Mainline Dyno deserves its outstanding reputation for producing the same results from dyno to dyno, as a scientific approach has been taken that provides the highest degree of accuracy. No need for a special operating mode that reduces the ability of the operator to affect the results. No menu options for the dyno operator to "modify" results. There are definitely no cheat modes and no smoke or mirrors on the Mainline Dyno.

Originally Posted by Elmo370z (Post 3856938)

I hope I make 640-660 on Ma’s dyno

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3856846)

The old clutch was good for 800hp and 530ft/lb of tq. They were right on the money on the Tq. It slipped right at 530ft/lb on the 2nd run after it got hot.